1988 4.3L OMC Motor - Noobie Questions

[AZWIP]

Howdy to all, am brand new to I/O motor boats and the such... and of course brand new to the 4.3L OMC Cobra motor...
with that in mind, sure hope I am posting these questions in the appropriate place... if not, please accept my apologies.

Ok, so, bought this 1988 Seaswirl Sierra II, with the 4.3L V6 Cobra (GM, Correct?)...

Sure hope I did the right thing, as some folks I know, when I was boat shopping, had said the Mercruiser V6 was the way to go... all I heard was V6... and bought with the OMC V6...

So, the boat looks very well kept, inside and out, very very clean.

Guy demo'd the boat, and all went well.

So, FF to where I have taken it out twice now... all seemed pretty good... I "guess" this has the electric choke?

If that is the case, could you advise best Cold Start procedure?

Keep in mind, my boat has the Key in the dash to start it... also, the throttle pulls out for neutral.

First time I had it in the water, cold, I just pulled the throttle out for nuetral and tried the key... no luck... played around and it fired up, user error I think... then, second time, I pulled out the throttle into neutral again... and push it forward 1/3 and turned the key... guess it was on a dead battery (boat has two, on Perko) as all I got was a click... I then set the Perko to number 2 (was on 1), and pumped the throttle twice and it fired right up.
(Gages all seem to work, showed 8 Volts for Setting "1" Battery and 12V for number "2" battery)
(Also, does this motor have electric choke? Or do I "set" the choke by putting throttle all the way forward??)....

So, I "think" the procedure would be:

1.) Ensure Perko is on a good battery
2.) Pull out the throttle to neutral, pump the throttle once or twice and turn the key?

Having said all that, I know, I will be testing the batteries before I go out again. The guy who sold me the boat only
owned it for a year or so, and did not know battery history. So, ok, test the batteries, ensure they are good.

Now, first time on the lake for afew hours, she ran great etc... now, second time, last weekend... was "different"...

So, began the trip by stopping to fill it up as I had no idea how large the tank etc... and "why not"... better a full tank... well, that was my intro to the "fuel vent??" or overflow valve, as fuel ran out the back of some hole a foot under the fill hole. So, anyways, its full! Head to the lake.

Cool, I run the boat for an hour or more, all is well... occassionally had a few abrupt stops... then I idled for at least 15-20 mins... then we started to to cruise around again... about 2200 rpm... all went well... then, as if someone turned the key to off, the motor just "cut out"! Uh oh... back into neutral, fingers crossed... she fired right back up... whew... ran it another 30 or so mins... all went well.

So, any idea why it "just cut out"?

Now, the key does not thrill me... you have to wiggle it to get it in the slot, then wiggle to turn it to start, then wiggle to turn off, then wiggle to pull it out... so, something not quite right with that?

All that to say, any ideas why she may have "just cut out", no sputter, nothing, just, instant off!

But, did fire right back up.

Could a bad battery cause this? Bad key switch? Any other ideas? Too full of a tank? So many variables, lol.

Any advice appreciated.

Also, The perko has: 1, 2, All, Off

Should I ever start in "All"... and run in "All"... or start in "1" and run in 1, unless I want radio etc, and have motor off then use 2, then start in 1 and set to 2 to recharge 2? Yup, kind of confusing... lol.

Some folks have said, never switch perko while motro is running? I do have a separate on/off for setting one... there is a gray box under the Perko marked "1" with on/off...

The boat is not parked at my home, else I'd check this.... but am assuming batteries are located in back of boat under floor (open bow boat), perhaps under the Perko switch (would that be the usual place)... which is located at back of boat, drivers side.

Only way to charge would be to remove and throw on my charger in my garage? Can't really charge while in the boat I am guessing?

Or probably best to yank em and have em tested at perhaps O'Reilly's or something?

Again, sorry for tons of questions, I have a lot to learn. Thanks for any and all advice.

Ron

 

[swaycleveland]

Ron, congrats on the new boat. Now go get some new batts! Being out on the water in a boat comes with a huge list of responsibilities. The most important of all is that not only are you responsible for you and your boat, but you may be called upon to save others. Be prepared. For anything.
As for the batteries and starting. Yes the switch is there to give you the option of stating with both or just one battery. There is no right answer as to if you use both or just one. Common practice say you use one and have on in reserve. As for the throttle control. Generally you would first, check the fluids oil steering and such look for leaks into the bilge, make sure everything is SHIP SHAPE and start the bilge blower to clear out any fumes ( i watched a guy blow up 3 boats a while back by not doing this) then move on to starting the engine ( engines run on gas Motors are electrical) pull the throttle out maybe pump it a time or two if its cold to move some gas into the carb. Make sure everything is clear and fire it up. If it doesn't start after a 3 second burst try another pump and go again. If after the third 3 second turn of the key. give it a a few minutes. But make sure you still have that bilge blower running. Once you get the engine running, let it warm up for a couple mins before setting out of open water.
Remember your boat may be the closest boat around and the difference between someone living or dying, have fun and be safe

 

[AZWIP]

Thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it. This is all new to me, so any and all suggestions/advice are appreciated. Great point about the blower... the guy I bought from, said he runs the pump and a blower for a minute or two... then fires it up.... others have said run for 3-4 mins... I wish I had paid more attention, I know he flipped two switches... one is the blower and the other is a pump(?).... and yeah, real easy to forget to do that, especially if you are new to all this.

I plan on taking some time this weekend to help familiarize myself with things... again, feel like a babe in the woods on this so far...even the trailer has surge brakes... I'll need to figure that out as well... right now its hooked up sort of half baked... I have a Ford F150 FX4 as my tow vehicle... and it has a 4 pin connector as well as a 7 pin connector... well, the trailer has a 4 pin and a blue wire dangling... and it also has a 5 pin round connector... of course that doesn't fit my Ford, lol... so... to go forward, currently, I plug in the 4 pin... BUT to reverse, I have to unplug the 4 pin, and plug that one blue wire into the 3rd slot down to "fool" the trailer into allowing me to back up. Fun stuff...l I need to get this "right", lol.

Still wondering why the engine just cut off though... weird, have no idea at this time, but of course it spooked me... I'm like, dang, gonna be stranded... so I need to figure that out... could it have vapor locked due to my having a fuill tank? No idea what to look at yet.


Thanks again for any and all advice etc, I appreciate it.

Ron

 

[swaycleveland]

about the key issue, you can buy a new key and cylinder pretty cheaply at west marine that might be the cause of the problem. i had a wire under the dash going into the key wiggle loose after years of banging waves. tightened up and done! now every year i make sure those and all my wire connections are secure and replace any that i dont feel great about with new. ( i yellow marker and tape to show which have been changed)
start with connections and them move on from there
always run that pump if you are not under way

 

[Bondo]

Still wondering why the engine just cut off though... weird, have no idea at this time, but of course it spooked me... I'm like, dang, gonna be stranded... so I need to figure that out... could it have vapor locked due to my having a fuill tank? No idea what to look at yet.

Ayuh,... Welcome Aboard,... Bring a Test light, 'n small tool kit with ya,....

The test light will tell ya whether there's power to the coil's (+) terminal powerin' the ignition,....

I doubt the level of the tank is relevant, in any way,...

The Automatic/ electric choke,.....
Ya have to advance the throttle atleast Once, to Wot to set the choke,.....
When ya turn the key to "On", the electric coils begins heatin' the element, Unchokin' the carb,....

So, Pump the throttle to Wot, atleast once, though a couple times might work better for yer motor, as Mine likes it, then set the throttle to 1/2 to 3/4'ers, 'n Hit the key,....
As Soon as it Lights, pull back to idle, or near idle,....
In a few minutes, the motor will warm, 'n the electric choke will be pulled off, electrically,...

 

[AZWIP]

Thanks again folks, appreciate it. I'll be sure to check things with the test light as well... good idea.... and yeah, perhaps a trip to a local boat shop to see about replacing the ignition is warrented... its definitely flakey...

Also, in regard to the running of the blower... I know I need to run the pump and the blower before starting... do you ever run it while the boat is running as well?

I'm assuming the pump switch is for water that may accumulate... (somewhere), and the blower is for the fumes in the engine area... he said he runs both... btu can't recall if it makes sense to run during operation as well, for a few minutes maybe every 30 mins or so?


Thanks!

 

[Lou C]

I have the same engine and the choke is not electric, it has a thermostatic spring that closes the choke when cold if you open the throttle all the way. It opens from exhaust heat in the exhaust crossover in the intake manifold like cars of 40-50 years ago lol. Cold start you run the blower for 4 min, OPEN the engine hatch SNIFF for gas fumes. If there are fumes shut every thing OFF! If not then you open the throttle all the way fwd three times then advance about about 1/3 then crank the engine with the key. Keep in mind the fast idle when cold is not automatic you have to set it yourself by advancing the throttle. The cutting out and gas leaking out the vent may be related (clogged vent).

Replacing the ig switch very easy job you need the one with 3 connections (B=battery, I=Ignition, S=start. 10 min job.

 

[tednv]

STOP!

Step #1
Locate the "Blower" toggle switch

Step #2
Put it in the "ON" position

Step #3
Resume whatever it is you were doing in attempting to get the motor started

 

[southkogs]

Welcome aboard AZWIP & tednv:

Ron - I didn't see where anyone answered about the pump. If you've got an auto-bilge pump then just keep it "on" and let it do it's thing. If not, I recommend not running it continuously. Running that pump dry for extended periods can damage it. They're usually cheap and easy to replace, but why kill it if ya' don't gotta', right?

I pop mine on when i first load into the water, and then check it from time to time while I'm out. The only time I run it continuously ... is when I forget to turn it off

 

[AZWIP]

[FONT=&quot]Again, thanks for sharing ya'lls information and expertise, I really appreciate it. Regarding the switch, looks like I can pick up a 3 position at a car parts place... so, I'll be doing that... am assuming the positions are: On (for accessories?) and Start (of course for starting) and Off.

Also, sheesh, I feel like such an egghead for asking, but... in regards to the blowers/pumps... ok, the blower keeps the engine compartment clear of fumes etc... but, in regards to the pump... uh, what exactly is being pumped out, from where??? The lower drive? Somewhere else? I know when I run for a while and hit the pump, some water for only a few seconds comes out of the outboard engine (drive?) (still trying to learn all the appropriate terms for engine sections)... so the pump has nothing to do with the boat itself taking on water, correct?

Also, yeah, my pump is not automatic as I have to turn it on and off by hand, so good point on remembering to turn it off again... sounds like the pump and blowers can be run from time to time with either the engine running or not.... but "always" a few minutes before starting...

Lots of great info and advice, really appreciate it. Hope to get to the point where I can help others, once I learn more.

I'll be looking at the vent as well as a possible trouble spot that may have caused the engine stopping... maybe try and still some wire down the hole in back of the boat where the fuel ran out when I filled it, assuming that's the vent.

Thanks again!!

Ron[/FONT]

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,.... The pump is the bilge pump, it pumps out leakage or rain water,....

Got nothin' to do with the motor or drive,....

Find it's thru-hull, where the water comes out,...
Turn it on, if water comes out, turn it off after the water stops,....
That's it,...

Wirin' in an auto-switch would do it for ya, if left it at a slip,....

 

[AZWIP]

Howdy again, hmmm, interesting about what the pump does.... now, I'm a wee bit concerned, should I be? Every time I run this for ... say every half hour to an hour... it does pump out some water (I can hear some water being forced out.... but only for 4-5 seconds, then no more water)... is that normal, or ... do I have a leak?

 

[bruceb58]

.. is that normal, or ... do I have a leak?

That's not normal. Time to get your head down there and see where it's leaking.

 

[AZWIP]

Hmmm.... I have a livewell built into the fron. Right side iof the boat that fills when I am on the water.... Could some of the water that comes out the pump be from there? Not sure how them builtin llivewells work... Yet. Lol

 

[southkogs]

... kinda' "could be" from anywhere: I was dealing with that all last summer and it turned out to be one of the fittings for holding my swim deck on the stern. You really have to get into that bilge and watch where it's filling from and track it down.

 

[AZWIP]

Will do... guessing the only way to look in the bilge will be by removing the engine cover... and taking a peek... will be headed out to where I have the boat stored this week to check into these things. You folks have given some great advice and feedback - i certainly appreciate it.

 

[AZWIP]

Also, forgot to mention, when I get to the boat to check things out this week... I'll be bringing a set of muffs... from researching this site, it seems I can run the boat using the muffs, provided I have the engine lowered... and the water flowing, hose opened about half way... then if I understand, do not run it much above idle...

the question I have no real answer to at this time, is... to run it using muffs and a hose, with motor lowered, c an I go into gear with it, or would it be better to leave it in neutral... if its ok to go into gear... does that include 4ward and backward... or should I just not mess with that, and leave her in Neutral the whole time?
Thanks!

 

[southkogs]

You can put it into gear. That's a water tight case anyway, so you should be okay. Just remember you got a spinin' propeller down there ...

 

[bruceb58]

Run the hose full blast. Any extra water just squirts out the muffs. Nothing can get hurt with more water pressure. Not sure where that old wives tale came about.

Also, you can run it higher than idle that way. Turn it on full balst and you will see the water squirt out the sides of the muffs. As you increase RPM you will still see some water squirting out but it will be less.

 

[Bondo]

Run the hose full blast. Any extra water just squirts out the muffs. Nothing can get hurt with more water pressure. Not sure where that old wives tale came about.

Also, you can run it higher than idle that way. Turn it on full balst and you will see the water squirt out the sides of the muffs. As you increase RPM you will still see some water squirting out but it will be less.

Ayuh,.... Agreed,..... 'n runnin' it in gear, it'll spray water off the prop too,...