1988 9.9hp evinrude no spark top cylinder

[BlackoutBill21]

Lost spark to the top cylinder only...

Coils tested ok. 250ohms. Swapped them just to make sure... same problem...

read a lot of people who when there was no spark to only 1 cylinder to check/replace coil pack. New coil pack .. same result.

tested the spark plug wires and they were jumping all over the ohm map so i replaced them too

Now I'm assuming it has to be the charge coil and/or trigger? Are they the same? Im lost when it comes to cdi. Im used to points... and this doesn't have a stater so i don't even know what the 2 things under the flywheel are called.

I've read the instruction on how to test the top components and here's where i get lost.

it says disconnect the stop switch buy disconnecting the black wire with yellow trace... i don't have that... I have black wire with white trace.

Next, do i need to buy an DVA meter? I dont have one/ know how it works...

How do I even test the two top units under the flywheel?

where do i start? Thanks

 

[BlackoutBill21]

So brp parts calls the small plastic piece a “sensor assembly” that tested 39 ohms

and the charge coil tested 550ohms

 

[oldboat1]

The plug wires should have a wire core (7mm wires). You should see full continuity between boots (spring clip to spring clip).
The clips either pierce through the wire, contacting the core, or wrap around with the wire core bent back underneath for contact. As you have a second CD2 coil and a good original, keep the original one for future use/testing. I'm inclined to replace the charge coil and sensor on mine, as they aren't real expensive (about $30ea.). With spark on one lead, though, they probably aren't the issue. Check coil grounds to block.

 

[racerone]

One sensor coil fires both plugs !----The charge coil also fires both plugs.-----So that leaves the CD unit , AKA powerpack. as the suspected bad part.

 

[BlackoutBill21]

I’ll check the grounds...

these were the wires I bought

Sierra International 18-8816-1... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N9N3SO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

the power pack is new though assuming by power pack you mean the large unit on the starboard side rear of the motor

 

[BlackoutBill21]

Ok slight success but need input here..
I am now showing spark but it looks weak.

what I did....

i was never happy with the carbon washer setup I read online on how to mount the coils

I had it... block, carbon washer, ground strap coil strap metal washer, bolt .

I know that looks confusing... I basically took out the carbon washer that I had in between the coil ground strap and the block... now it looks like I have weak spark in both cylinders. I will check the gap tomorrow

is there a set way the coil pack is suposed to be bolted up too??

definitely feel like I’m gaining ground here... no pun intended

 

[oldboat1]

The ground is via the ground strap and the mounting bolt. I would put any non-metal washers between the coil body and the strap, not on the block. The mounting bolt also contacts the strap, I believe.

I'm not certain about the wires -- would need to compare the Sierra number with those for your '88 9.9. It appears there is a wound solid core, but not sure. Its stainless steel wound around Kevlar -- probably OK as long as the s.s. contacts the terminals at each end. Check the recommended wires for you motor (compare part numbers).

[edit. see Sierra 18-8816 is listed for your 9.9, so should work for you.]

 

[BlackoutBill21]

So I got the spark back.. thanks for the help..

runs same exact way it always did...

seemed to like it a smidge better with an air box on to restrict the air flow...

time to bite the bullet and just buy a new carb... if it still runs the same I’ll check the reeds and everything else

 

[oldboat1]

If you can't "dial it in", you could have a problem with the reeds. But if you have the magneto functioning right, I would try to avoid confusing issues. That is, work on the carb you have and see if you can get better performance. One system at a time. See if you can determine whether it's running too rich (likely) or too lean, and adjust the air/fuel mix -- makes some sense that it would run better at the moment with the airbox in place.

 

[BlackoutBill21]

Yeah I’m moving on from the carb lol . New one is on the way... in the mean time I sprayed carb cleaner on the block and noticed it stalled and sputtered...

couldn’t pin point where but I think it might be base of the power head... I’m gunna take the power head off and change the lower seal ... while it’s off I may check my intake gaskets and the reeds as you say... why not eh?

 

[oldboat1]

Yes, sounds like a lower seal issue.

 

[BlackoutBill21]

OK So I didnt think starting a new thread was the way to go. and nothing is better then googling your issue, finding a thread.. and seeing the outcome IMO...

took power head off and changed lower crank seals (there were 2 an upper and lower).. and while it was off saw that the water tube grommet was installed pinched...

also saw the exhaust rubber gasket at the end of the tube was beat up and falling apart. 30 bucks for one stupid rubber piece...

and i picked up a 1985 metal bowl 9.9 carb... was closest carb i could find to my year that was metal.

MOTOR RUNS GREAT!!!

literally an awesome runner now!! NOW i do know know if the ultimate problem was the carb or the seals or both but who cares lol Motor will make someone very happy now and I get to sleep easy now knowing I found (with yall's help) and fixed the issue!!