1989 Force 125, should I buy it?

Newbie@boats

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 6, 2010
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536
Looking at a bayliner with a 125 force, motor is super clean under the cover and outside, fresh water only.

Anything to look for?

I asked him about over heating he said if it over heats it shuts off automaticlly?

No temp gague :redface:
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
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Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
Re: 1989 Force 125, should I buy it?

You need to do a compression test on it to see what kind of shape the cylinders are in. This wont tell you everything that may be wrong with the motor, but at least it will give you some idea as to the condition of the rings/cylinders. Low compression usually means there is a problem = poor running motor. Factory specs are 140 - 160 LBS of compression. You could probably get away with as low as 125 LBS. All four cylinders should be within 10% from lowest to highest reading. Also verify that the tilt/trim is working.
 

chuck palmer

Cadet
Joined
May 2, 2010
Messages
12
Re: 1989 Force 125, should I buy it?

I just bought a 1987 bayliner with the 125 force, I knew getting into it I had to work on the motor, but to me that was not a problem. I knew what was wrong from what the owner told me. Now my advice to you is this, do a compression check, run the motor in a tub so as not to overpower the water pump and check that out, oh and keep the water cool, take the prop off to make sure the hub is good and you can also shift the forward and reverse gears. this will tell you alot, and if you a a mechanicly inclined person you can do a complete rebuild for around 500.00 and have a motor that will run along time.
chuck palmer
 

Newbie@boats

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Apr 6, 2010
Messages
536
Re: 1989 Force 125, should I buy it?

If the motor over heats will it automatically shut off?

Or just keep on running till it seizes up?
 

carpy11

Recruit
Joined
Apr 27, 2010
Messages
3
Re: 1989 Force 125, should I buy it?

I am only a self-taught Force backyard mechanic, I have bought and fixed a few Force outboards, so I am not a certified mechanic by any means, but I can tell you this...when buying a Force motor, I check out the big three, then I chance the rest, that being... A.) Do the compression check, if it checks out (all cylinders within ~10% of each other, over 125 psi is good) go to B... B.) Check the sparc with an adjustable spark jump tester, get one that you can put all the 4 coil wires on, ground it before cranking it, you want to see the spark jump 7/16 of an inch, if true, go to C.) Check the lower end oil, do this by pulling the lower slotted screw, stick the appropriate gear oil nipple in the hole, then pull the top slotted screw, squeeze the gear oil until it comes out the top hole, this will tell you how low it was on fluid, then once fluid comes out the if there's any water in the fluid it will be obvious, then put the screws back in, replace o-rings if needed, tighten the screws firmly. If all that checks out, try running it with earmuffs, if it starts, watch for water to come out the exhaust port, it should be at least a light stream on earmuffs, if no stream best to shut it down and plan to replace the water pump, and be suspicious that it may have overheated before you got to it. The most common problem is low cylinder reading, followed by lack of sparc - typically caused by a bad stator, the stator's are inadequate and fail more than anything in my experience. If you get it running, check forward and reverse, and good luck......ed
 
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