1989 Force 125hp NO Spark

[tbest01]

Was running fine in test tank, shut off. Now have no spark on any cylinder? Have replaced questionable key switch. Test light; have power at key switch purple wire, but no power at motor side purple wire? Motor side: have ground on white wires going to CDI modules? Have tried to disconnect white wires and crank over; still no spark? Have disconnected yellow/black wire=no spark. Have disconnected tether cord switch=no spark? What am I missing?

 

[SkiDad]

A lot of times the stator is the culprit. Look at Outboardignition.com for the test PDFs on that site for your engine. Look under power packs and under starors. They have helped me out 2 times and I bought there stuff and it's very high quality.

 

[Jiggz]

I was just wondering what schematic are you going by with all the disconnected wires. Did the no spark happened after replacing the switch? Or is it the other way around wherein there was no spark and decided to replace ignition switch. The white kill wires should not be ground to have sparks. Normally the white kill wires are grounded when the switch if in "OFF" position or the lanyard switch is activated. The purple wire is for the tach signal input from the stator and should NOT have any power unless the flywheel is rotating.

 

[tbest01]

No Spark just suddenly happened. Key switch was acting intermittently, so I replaced it. With key on power, there is power to the purple at the key switch. I have followed CDI's troubleshooting instructions for the model. After testing the Stator, I have a grounded stator. Continuity to ground from the blue and yellow wires. DVA readings are not there as well. I just find it odd that I had great spark when I rebuilt the motor, had it running good in the test tank and then nothing? I did however install a dual battery switch after it was running. I know it is installed correctly, so this may be coincidental?

 

[Jiggz]

No Title

A wiring diagram is a must when troubleshooting. Here's one for you. Need to follow it to the letter. Note when reading resistance, i.e. blue and yellow wires to ground, you need to make sure both or all sets of blue and yellow wires coming off the stator should be disconnected from the terminal board connections. This is to make sure you do not read another component that is intentionally grounded. When reading resistance between two wires, then all you need is to at least have one wire disconnected from its connections from a terminal board to have the proper reading.

 

[tbest01]

Tested again. No DVA output. Thanks much!

 

[Jiggz]

Not to be very basic, did you try to read the DVA both in AC or DC. I believe the DVA read output is measured in DC volts. If you have a DVA, did you try reading the blue and yellow power wires from the stator to the CD modules (180 VAC p-p while cranking). How about the trigger signal, +5VAC p-p? if both readings are correct then disconnect both the white kill wires from the CDM's (tape them off or keep them off touching ground) from the engine terminal board and try starting again. If there is still no DVA output on both CDM's then it tells you both must be bad, WHICH IS VERY UNUSUAL!

Be careful when the white kill wires are disconnected as the engine may start and you have no ways of shutting it off except to ground the white kill wires or snuff the carbs.

 

[tbest01]

Tested with a DVA on DC volts. Everything connected; from blue to yellow, nothing on both windings. Triggers ohm out fine. Tested CDM's disconnected blue to ground and yellow to ground while cranking=no voltage, which is ok according to CDI troubleshooting module. Strangely enough, disconnected, had continuity from #2 yellow wire from stator to ground, then tested again and had no continuity? intermittent. Has to be the stator.

 

[Jiggz]

If CDI troubleshooting confirms the stator from your diagnosis then that must be it.

 

[tbest01]

Thought I'd give an update on this issue for anyone reading this and having similar issues.
So, to start over; I replaced the key switch, stator and flywheel. Still no spark. Keep in mind these parts were bad. Found out that one of the ignition modules had a bad diode that was blown to ground, which killed the "kill circuit". Replaced both ignition modules, then the Rectifier went bad. Then the starter solenoid went bad from all of the cranking. Then, had to replace both of the Trim and Tilt relays. Now, finally, it runs. And now I have to replace the water impeller.
Note to self; never buy another Force outboard. This boat is for sale. Thanks to those who gave info on here anyway. Good luck and happy boating!