1989 OMC Ford 2.3L finding cylinder #1 on Mallory (YS621CV) Distributor Cap

[Barrelmaker]

I understand the firing order for the engine is 1342 and have seen many google images showing plug wire #1 at various points on the cap (2 o'clock, 7 o'clock, 4 o'clock) so which is correct? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[kenny nunez]

It does not matter as long as the rotor lines up with whatever spark plug wire going to the #1 cylinder when the #1 piston is at tdc firing position and the timing mark on the harmonic balancer line up with the “0” mark of the tab of the timing gear cover.

 

[Barrelmaker]

Thanks for your feedback Kenny. To re-cap, if the mark lines up with '0' on the timing gear cover am I in the power stroke or could I be in the exhaust stroke?

 

[Bondo]

Thanks for your feedback Kenny. To re-cap, if the mark lines up with '0' on the timing gear cover am I in the power stroke or could I be in the exhaust stroke?

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,..... Yes, the timing marks line up in the compression stroke, 'n the exhaust stroke,.....

You must find the compression stroke to find #1,....

 

[Barrelmaker]

Thanks for your reply. The wires are still attached to the cap. My problem is which way it goes back on. I know, it should be easy but (for some stupid reason) turned the wires on the cap and never should've touched them. There is also a notch on the cap lip but don't see one on the Mallory. I will figure it out eventually. Thanks again, cheers.

 

[440roadrunner]

There are two ways (on most) engines to find TDC no1 ready to fire. If you happen to have the rocker covers off, bring up the marks and see if no1 valves are closed. If not rotate the crank 1 turn and you will be there

The most popular method is to remove the no1 plug, and "bump" the engine with a finger in the plug hole. When you START to feel compression, look at the marks and carefully wrench or bump the engine up NOT TO TDC but rather the initial timing which you want AKA EG 10BTC or whatever.

Drop in the dist. As others have said, (most) engines so far as firing "don't care " where the rotor points as long as the rotor meets a hole in which no1 wire is inserted. SOME ENGINES do care, some 4's and V6's

If you have a book and know "where" no1 "is supposed to be" drop in the dist accordingly. On some engines like Chev and Ford you may have to diddle the starter to get the thing to fall all the way down into the oil pump drive. Just bring the marks up once more by bumping, again until "the marks" are where you want timing to be.

Rotate the dist body and verify "it sits" where you want and on a Ford the rotor rotates CCW, so you want the rotor "approaching" the no1 tower sort of "corner to corner at the contacts "coming CCW."

If you have points, "rig" a light/ continuity checker, etc to the points, and intentionally retard timing (rotate dist CCW) until points are CLOSED. Now slowly ADVANCE dist (CW on Ford) until points JUST break open on your continuity device. Snug down the dist, install the rest of the wires in order, and START IT UP

Incidentally, the "old traditional Ford" firing order 15426378 is exactly the same as the popular GM/ Mopar one of 18436572 if you re-number the cylinders of one to match the other

 

[440roadrunner]

If you learn to use this method, you will NEVER have to screw around cranking, backfiring, and messing with the dist to get the thing to run, EXTREMELY important on say, an "new" engine start when you are already "busy."

If you do NOT have a points dist, just rotate dist so trigger device meets the pickup device and that should be close enough to fire and run

I'm 74, and learned this in the early 70's, and I've never looked back

 

[Barrelmaker]

Appreciate your feedback 440roadrunner. It is a points system. To mention; I previously had numbered the distributor cap (as I have zero memory) so when lining up TDC mark with the (harmonic balancer) notch the rotor tip lined right up with #1 on the cap. To be sure (it was compression stroke) turned another 360 ending with the tip on #3. All good. Passive tested the coil resistance which was fine (1.5 ohm +/- and 24K ohm + to center). Power tested coil which was also fine. It's either faulty points or condenser. However, chasing down a new cap, rotor, points and condenser has been a challenge. The model number could be 232BMRMED, 232BMRMEF, 232BPRMED or 232BPRMEF. How do I locate that number on the engine? The plugs are Champion RS12YC and black as hell. Can you offer advice on alternative brand? I believe the gap on plugs is 0.035 and points is 0.019. Thanks again for you help, cheers.

 

[440roadrunner]

I have no advice on plugs, as they have turned into a "zoo." In my day I used Champion or AC.

So far as a condenser, if you cannot find an original Mallory, just try to find one that you can mount. It can even be mounted externally so long as it's electrically and mechanically secure. You can even mount it at the coil if possible. If you have some idea of what the coil specs are, try to get a condenser to match that. For example, common ford passenger car of the mid 60's to 70's

If you have an ohmeter, or better yet dwell meter with "points resistance" function, the main thing about the points are that the rubbing block be in good shape, the points have low resistance when closed, and infinity when open. I do know that some Mallory models are getting difficult to find.

 

[Barrelmaker]

I like NGK 2238 in plugs. Those I can get. Sierra has zero availability and Napa can get points, condenser through Blue Streak but said for cap and rotor would have to go automotive (Pinto, Ranger) to match up with the Mallory distributor... Will be tricky finding supplier here in Canada. Thanks for your feedback.