1989 Ranger w/ 150 Johnson Outboard Complete Re-do

[TexMariner]

I recently purchased a 1989 Ranger 361V from a guy who was liquidating his grandfather's estate. He died in 1996, at which time the boat was "winterized" and has been sitting with a canvas cover on it since then. I put winterized in quotes simply because there was still oil in the oil tank. I do not know much about the winterization process, but I thought there would be no oil in it had it been done properly. Someone please correct me if I am wrong. Overall, the boat is in great shape. The hull still sparkles after a quick bath, and the engine looks like it was rolled out of the factory a few weeks ago. There is no typical "gunk" that I see on my buddies' boats that have been in service for the past several years. The motor spins freely from the flywheel, heck, even the starter is still in tact. The main problems I am running into are the steering being locked up, and numerous chewed wires throughout, for some rats apparently made it their home since the boat was stored. Wiring, I can somewhat do. I only intend on tying new wire on where the old is chewed and fishing them through that way and reconnecting. I am seeking any help with the steering, and also need to know what absolutely needs to be wired properly before putting her on the water for a test run. The carpet and upholstery will be done by myself and another buddy, but that will be the last thing b/c what good is a good looking boat if the dang thing don't run, right? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I can provide pictures if they will help, just let me know.

Thanks,

TexMariner

 

[QC]

Re: 1989 Ranger w/ 150 Johnson Outboard Complete Re-do

Mr. Dance, Mr. Bug, Mr. Houston and Mr. Jig,

Mr. Mariner's thread is going to have to go away if we can't get our trolling motor through all of these snags . . .

Mr. Mariner,

Welcome aboard!! Good luck.

Friendly neighborhood modulational crew . . .

 

[TexMariner]

Re: 1989 Ranger w/ 150 Johnson Outboard Complete Re-do

Does anyone know what the dryer vent-looking hose is down in the rear of the hull? What does it do?

 

[Don S]

Re: 1989 Ranger w/ 150 Johnson Outboard Complete Re-do

I think you need to break your questions down into specific sections and post them in the proper forums.
Specific engine problems should be posted here in the Johnson forum
Boat wiring problems should be posted in the Electrical forum.
General boat questions should be in the Boat Topics and Questions (Not engines) forums.

 

[TexMariner]

Re: 1989 Ranger w/ 150 Johnson Outboard Complete Re-do

Okay, my mistake. I'm new here. I have questions all pertaining to the motor and proper functioning of the motor. I will post individual questions in the appropriate threads though.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 1989 Ranger w/ 150 Johnson Outboard Complete Re-do

You can identify your steering problem by disconnecting the link arm between the end of the steering cable and the steering arm of the engine. If the engine moves freely, then the problem is internal to the steering itself. The steering cables on most all boat are not made to be lubricated. With time, they will fray internally and will need replacement. There is a part number stamped about a foot from the end of all steering cables. Once you know that number, you may find that you can get a replacement cable from a local marine dealership. In order to get the engine to run, the engine control box wiring must be intact. You need to inspect it from the large red canon plug under the cowling-all the way up to the control box by the helm. Unlikely the mice have eaten this wiring, as it comes shielded from the factory-but check it out anyway.

 

[TexMariner]

Re: 1989 Ranger w/ 150 Johnson Outboard Complete Re-do

You can identify your steering problem by disconnecting the link arm between the end of the steering cable and the steering arm of the engine. If the engine moves freely, then the problem is internal to the steering itself. The steering cables on most all boat are not made to be lubricated. With time, they will fray internally and will need replacement. There is a part number stamped about a foot from the end of all steering cables. Once you know that number, you may find that you can get a replacement cable from a local marine dealership. In order to get the engine to run, the engine control box wiring must be intact. You need to inspect it from the large red canon plug under the cowling-all the way up to the control box by the helm. Unlikely the mice have eaten this wiring, as it comes shielded from the factory-but check it out anyway.

Thanks for the advice, that really helps. Took the gear boxes off under the dash and confirmed they are not moving at all. Old grease buildup was obviously the culprit. Thanks for the info about the part number. I'm a real n00b to say the least. Is there anything tricky about putting new cables in? I read another post in another forum about the pulleys(?) that the cables rest on in the hull, but I have not seen anything like that. Am I not looking hard enough? On the wiring, it seems as though every bit of wiring in the hull has been chewed in some fashion. If the wires are simply exposed, but not chewed through, will electrical tape suffice or is that a fire risk? There is alot of "nesting material"(i.e. shredded life jackets, carpet, debris) in those hard-to-reach places is the main reason I'm concerned.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 1989 Ranger w/ 150 Johnson Outboard Complete Re-do

Sounds like you may have dual cable steering. Pretty common on high perf bass boats. You may find that only one of the steering cables is bad...Hook them up under the dash, one cable at a time and see what happens. You will have to pull the cables out and that should give you an idea of how they go back in. It is fairly common that a number of wires running along under the driver's gunnel will be attached (hanging from) those steering cables. Makes it a little harder to get them out. Worst may be if you can't get the engine cable ends out of the engine brackets. Sometimes you have to pull the engine off the transom, then back a foot or more to pull the engine cable ends out. You might consider installing the main engine wires (only) to the starting battery and try to start it in the driveway. If there is an electrical problem in the engine wiring harness, worst you will do is blow the small 20 amp fuse in the engine wire harness under the cowling. Possible it will start right up.

 

[TexMariner]

Re: 1989 Ranger w/ 150 Johnson Outboard Complete Re-do

Sounds like you may have dual cable steering. Pretty common on high perf bass boats. You may find that only one of the steering cables is bad...Hook them up under the dash, one cable at a time and see what happens. You will have to pull the cables out and that should give you an idea of how they go back in. It is fairly common that a number of wires running along under the driver's gunnel will be attached (hanging from) those steering cables. Makes it a little harder to get them out. Worst may be if you can't get the engine cable ends out of the engine brackets. Sometimes you have to pull the engine off the transom, then back a foot or more to pull the engine cable ends out. You might consider installing the main engine wires (only) to the starting battery and try to start it in the driveway. If there is an electrical problem in the engine wiring harness, worst you will do is blow the small 20 amp fuse in the engine wire harness under the cowling. Possible it will start right up.

It is dual cable steering, and I did hook each one up to the steering wheel under the dash, both stuck. Haven't been able to get the cables off the engine, can't hardly get them to budge. What's the best way to free them up? I've heard heat, I've heard don't hammer, I've heard hammer, I've heard it all, but what say you? You have been very helpful so far and seem to know what you're talking about. Back to electrical though, the starter will jump and crank the flywheel just fine, just no spark. Not sure if what you are saying to do there will get the same results or would that bypass something?

 

[Kyleb100]

Re: 1989 Ranger w/ 150 Johnson Outboard Complete Re-do

Personally, I'd replace all the wires in the hull that appear to be chewed up. Your fuel tank can produce fumes that may build up in the hull, in the event of a short in the wiring you could have the potential for a fire or explosion. I know every time I pull the access hatches to get into the hull of my boat I notice a faint fuel smell for what ever reason. This is the same reason it's suggested by the manufacturers not to mount on-board chargers or batteries in the hull of a boat(plus the batteries off-gassing). Just my personal opinion... others may not feel the same way, so be it.

 

[TexMariner]

Re: 1989 Ranger w/ 150 Johnson Outboard Complete Re-do

Personally, I'd replace all the wires in the hull that appear to be chewed up. Your fuel tank can produce fumes that may build up in the hull, in the event of a short in the wiring you could have the potential for a fire or explosion. I know every time I pull the access hatches to get into the hull of my boat I notice a faint fuel smell for what ever reason. This is the same reason it's suggested by the manufacturers not to mount on-board chargers or batteries in the hull of a boat(plus the batteries off-gassing). Just my personal opinion... others may not feel the same way, so be it.

That's what I was thinking, but others seem to think its no big deal. I guess if you are going to have a fire though, the best place for it to happen is on a lake. I just don't want to flush all the money to buy the boat and fix it up by cutting corners and the investment going up in flames. Thanks for the advice.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 1989 Ranger w/ 150 Johnson Outboard Complete Re-do

One thing about the starter. It need to turn between 225 and 250 rpm's in order to fire the ignition system on that engine. If it cranks slower than that, it won't fire. You can do test to see if there is a problem with the control box and harness. Disconnect the large red plug in the cowling. Pull the plugs out and leave them attached to the wires-lay them on the block. Jump start the starter with jumper cables. See if the plugs have spark when the starter cranks the engine. If you still have no spark, the control box, emergency cutoff lanyard and key switch are probably ok. Reconnect the big red plug in the cowing and start to look for a problem with the engine mounted ignition components. To free up the cable ends at the engine end, remove the large tube nuts from the tilt tube and it's companion tube. You can try a large crescent wrench on the flat spot on the stainless cable ends by the engine. See if you can get them freed up by trying to rotate them. You may have to pound them out with a mallet. Sometimes they will not come out because the cables are too close the side of the splashwell. (not enough slack) Make sure the cables are completely unbolted at the helm.

 

[Kyleb100]

Re: 1989 Ranger w/ 150 Johnson Outboard Complete Re-do

Plus, wire is cheap.. it just takes a bit of elbow grease(and more than likely, some frustration). So why not just do it.. Just make sure to use shrink tube butt connectors. I'd even wrap them in electrical tape just to play it safe.

 

[TexMariner]

Re: 1989 Ranger w/ 150 Johnson Outboard Complete Re-do

Thanks for all the insight. After troubleshooting for a week now, decided to just have a mechanic check it out for $80. That will at least tell us what needs to be done. From there we will pick and choose what we can/cannot do ourselves to save some money. Will return once we have the findings for some more help.

 

[topwaterjig]

Re: 1989 Ranger w/ 150 Johnson Outboard Complete Re-do

Well, Mr. Mariner.
I guess it turns out your buddies gunked up boat wasn't such a bad purchase.

 

[TexMariner]

Re: 1989 Ranger w/ 150 Johnson Outboard Complete Re-do

Well, Mr. Mariner.
I guess it turns out your buddies gunked up boat wasn't such a bad purchase.

Never said his dirty azz boat wasn't a good purchase. It definitely turned out to be a better deal than what we bought though. Great buy Sancho Essarystein!