1989 Stator on 1988 E175

ccnstlr

Seaman
Joined
Dec 25, 2006
Messages
69
I have a 1988 175 with the 35Amp system with stator/regulator/rectifier problems. No tach signal and no charging. I have a good stator that is for a 1989 175. That stator has the extra 'power coil' for the quick start which my motor does not have. Does anyone know if it is possible to just tape off the leads from the power coil since it is not used, or what if anything I can do to use this stator on my 1988. I don't know if the charge in the power coil is gonna cause heat if it has no load on it, and I don't want to destroy a good stator by running it with that coil disconnected. Also, I am gonna replace the regulator/rectifier at the same time (have a new one).

Thanks.
 

muskrat

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 13, 2004
Messages
445
Re: 1989 Stator on 1988 E175

dont miss match parts...
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: 1989 Stator on 1988 E175

Perhaps your stator is fine? However, If the large BLACK coils toward the rear of the stator are melting down, replace it.

To test the tachometer and the stator battery charging section output, do the following.

(Testing Tachometer With Water Cooled Regulator/Rectifier)
(J. Reeves)

A quick check is to simply plug in a another new tachometer as a piece of test equipment. If the new tach works properly and the old tach didn't, obviously the old tach is faulty.... but usually boaters don't carry around a spare tach (see below).

A faulty rectifier wouldn't damage the tachometer, the tachometer simply wouldn't work. This is due to the fact that the tachometer operates off of the charging system and the rectifier converts AC voltage to DC voltage, enabling the charging system. A faulty rectifier disables the charging system, and the tachometer simply doesn't register.

However.... those watercooled regulator/rectifiers that are used on the 35amp charging systems (and some others) bring into play a different type problem, and as you've probably found out, they are really a pain to troubleshoot via the proper procedure. There's an easier way.

The tachometer sending/receiving setup operates off of the gray wire at the tachometer. That same gray wire exists at the engine wiring harness which is connected to the engine electrical terminal strip. You'll see that there is a gray wire leading from the regulator/rectifier to that terminal strip, and that there is another gray wire attached to it. That other gray wire is the wire leading to the tachometer which is the one you're looking for.

Remove that gray wire that leads to the tachometer. Now, find the two (2) yellow wires leading from the stator to that terminal strip. Hopefully one of them is either yellow/gray or is connected to a yellow/gray wire at the terminal strip. If so, connect the gray wire you removed previously to that yellow/gray terminal. Start the engine and check the tachometers operation, and if the tachometer operates as it should, then the regulator/rectifier is faulty and will require replacing. If the tachometer is still faulty, replace the tachometer.

If neither of the yellow wires from the stator is yellow/gray, and neither is attached to a yellow/gray wire, then attach that gray tachometer wire to either yellow stator wire, then the other yellow wire, checking the tachometer operation on both connections.

I've found this method to be a quick and efficent way of finding out which component is faulty.... the tachometer or the regulator/rectifier. It sounds drawn out but really only takes a very short time to run through. If the water cooled regulator/rectifier proves to be faulty, don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disasterous consequences.

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store

I don't aprove of mismatching parts, however.... Using the 1989 stator is permissible by disconnecting that "Fast Start" actuating coil. If it overheats, the only item that will melt down is that particular coil which isn't being used anyway. To eliminate it, remove it from the stator.
 

ccnstlr

Seaman
Joined
Dec 25, 2006
Messages
69
Re: 1989 Stator on 1988 E175

Thanks Joe.

I thought that I could either remove the coil from the stator or just leave it disconnected. My only concern was the overheating of that coil and causing damage to the stator. I am leaning toward attempting to remove that coil from the stator. Seemed like the most logical thing to do. I have since verified that the diodes are shot in the regulator/rectifier and the replacement should be here 1/2/07. Will try the tach wire to the yellow stator wire. Haven't done that one yet. Thanks again for the advice.
 

ccnstlr

Seaman
Joined
Dec 25, 2006
Messages
69
Re: 1989 Stator on 1988 E175

After touching tach wire to the 'yellow' stator lead, nothing happened. Touched it to the 'yellow/grey' lead and the tach came to life, but I feel it wasn't reading correctly (low). Checked the a/c voltage at each of the stator leads to grd and were as follows. 1.3 on yellow and 2.5 on yellow/gray. The leads were still connected on the terminal strip with the rec/reg leads. Would the fact that the tach didn't register on the yellow lead signal that the stator is in fact bad? Thanks.
 
Top