1990 120 Force water flow

Kajun37

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Feb 17, 2006
Messages
348
Hi... cant say how happy i am to find this forum:) my motor is currently in the mechanic's shop lol so i wont go into its problems unless they cant fix it...but i do have one question for you guys now...<br /><br />my motor doesnt pee out water out of the 2 holes at top much when on a water hose at home...its basically dribble's out...but when i put the boat in the water...it pee's out a strong stream.....i have replaced the impeller and water pump housing and gasket.. and it still does the same thing....dribbles on hose...strong when in water....any ideas?
 

roscoe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
21,754
Re: 1990 120 Force water flow

Typical of Force motors of this era.<br />The two holes are actually Exhaust relief holes.<br />Water exit is just a byproduct of the exhaust and water being blown passed the holes.<br /><br />When the motor is placed in water, there is backpressure created on the exhaust flow, and more will be forced out of the releif holes.<br /><br />Two things can be done to give you a more accurate and more visible water telltale indicator.<br /><br />Take a look at this picture, look at part #41, center left.<br /><br />
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<br /><br /><br />It is a small pipe plug, located at the top of the cylinder head, just in front of the thermostat cover. <br /><br />Solution #1: Remove the plug, screw in a brass hose nipple, 1/16 or 1/8 inch diameter. Attach a peice of plastic tubing, route it to the bottom starboard side of the engine cowling, secure it in place. Drill holes in cowling and route the hose thru so you can see it from the drivers seat.<br /><br />Solution #2: Buy a water pressure gauge kit ($40-$60).<br />Install in dash, route plastic hose to engine and attach to the same hole in the top of the engine. You will need a hole saw attachment (about $9) for your drill to drill the hole in the dash.<br /><br />The advantage of the gauge is that you can keep an eye on the water pressure while underway, and you will know when the impeller is getting weak or when the water inlet gets clogged by debris. And you will be able to shut down BEFORE the engine overheats.<br /><br /> CLICK !!<br /><br /><br />
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Downrigger

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 15, 2006
Messages
42
Re: 1990 120 Force water flow

Originally posted by Kajun37:<br /> Hi... cant say how happy i am to find this forum:) my motor is currently in the mechanic's shop lol so i wont go into its problems unless they cant fix it...but i do have one question for you guys now...<br /><br />my motor doesnt pee out water out of the 2 holes at top much when on a water hose at home...its basically dribble's out...but when i put the boat in the water...it pee's out a strong stream.....i have replaced the impeller and water pump housing and gasket.. and it still does the same thing....dribbles on hose...strong when in water....any ideas?
My 150 is exactly the same. If you are not having cooling problems don't worry about it. Mine was overheating and it only had a moderate stream when in the water and almost nothing with the hose attached. I replaced the impellar and the thermostat and it now shoots water 3 feet behind the boat when in the water and still dribbles when on the hose. Difference now is that it no longer overheats.<br /><br />Larry
 

Kajun37

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Feb 17, 2006
Messages
348
Re: 1990 120 Force water flow

great..thanks for the info...i run my motor mainly in salt water and since october i have not flushed it with fresh water when i come back home becuase i was afraid i would blow it up since there was no water coming out on the hose....should i start flushing it even though i dont see it coming out?<br /><br />its good to know its "normal" though... well i definetly like the idea on the water pressure gauge and will have to install that if i can ever get it running right.
 

roscoe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
21,754
Re: 1990 120 Force water flow

Yes flush it, turn the hose water pressure up !!
 

noshelter

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 14, 2002
Messages
87
Re: 1990 120 Force water flow

You should definitely flush it out, even if you're not getting much pressure off the hose at home. You also might want to check the earmuffs, make sure they're secure and tight against the leg and screens. You are probably losing some water, but hopefully not too much. Crank that hose up baby!!! Definitely flush it though, leaving salt in there is way worse. Especially for the length of time you're talking about.
 

Downrigger

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 15, 2006
Messages
42
Re: 1990 120 Force water flow

Originally posted by Kajun37:<br /> great..thanks for the info...i run my motor mainly in salt water and since october i have not flushed it with fresh water when i come back home becuase i was afraid i would blow it up since there was no water coming out on the hose....should i start flushing it even though i dont see it coming out?<br /><br />its good to know its "normal" though... well i definetly like the idea on the water pressure gauge and will have to install that if i can ever get it running right.
You stand WAY more chance of doing your engine harm by not flushing it after salt water use. You'll know if it starts getting too hot. The engine temperature sqealer would wake up the dead and the engine will shut down if it gets too hot. Running right or not you need to flush it. Some really good stuff is that "Salt Out" flushing chemical. You pour some into one of those canisters you find on a car cleaning brush to feed soap while your washing, put that on the end of the hose and connect it to you earmuffs. When you see foam start to come out with the water discharge run it until the thermo opens and shut down. Takes half as much time to flush out the salt and the chemical gets virtually all the salt out.<br /><br />Larry
 

noshelter

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 14, 2002
Messages
87
Re: 1990 120 Force water flow

Hi Kajun, is your engine a 2-stroke? If so, I'd like to talk more as I just bought the same one. Just want any advice, thoughts on the engine so far. Thanks, you can email me at scottsusin @ hotmail.com<br /><br /><br />SSS
 

Kajun37

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Feb 17, 2006
Messages
348
Re: 1990 120 Force water flow

hey NFA...yes its a 2 stroke....as for advice i really cant give ya much.. i just bought mine in october...took it out about 7 time before i started having problems with it....everyone tells me i made the biggest mistake in buying a boat with a force but i'm gonna give it chance and see what happens...my reasoning when i bought it was...if its been on the boat for 15 and still runs then it cant be all that bad lol...it ran great when i first got it...had no complaints.
 

noshelter

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 14, 2002
Messages
87
Re: 1990 120 Force water flow

Thanks Kajun, I'm in the same boat (sic) as you I find. I know a Force isn't a Yammy or Evinrude, but it runs (for now), and with proper maintenance I hope it continues to run and treat me well. <br /><br /><br />SSS
 

Luvmyforce

Recruit
Joined
Feb 23, 2006
Messages
3
Re: 1990 120 Force water flow

ROSCOE!!!! your idea about running a pressure guage has got to be one of the best ideas I've heard of. What a great idea. Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

Downrigger

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 15, 2006
Messages
42
Re: 1990 120 Force water flow

OK, I want to install a pressure guage. I understand the installation. What pressure would be seen as normal on an engine with a new impellar? Should I buy the 0-15# or the 0-30# guage for a Force 150HP 1992?<br /><br />Thanks,<br /><br />Larry
 

roscoe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
21,754
Re: 1990 120 Force water flow

Outboard water pressures are rather low.<br />Not sure what your motor would max out at.<br />Probably around 15#, maybe a bit more.<br />I have a 30 psi gauge for my 70hp motor.<br /><br />At idle mine is about 3-4#.<br />At 3000 rpm, about 9-10#.<br />At full throttle, 5300 rpm, about 14#.
 
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