1990 Evinrude 100XP info

tallcanadian

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I have a chance to pick up a one owner 1990 Evinrude 100XP. I would just like to get some info on these motors. I hear you OMC guys are pretty good. The motor suppose to have about 200 hours. I've owned Mercs for years but thinking I may swap sides.

1. What does the XP stand for?
2. Pros and cons for these motors?

And any other info you can provide. Thanks a bunch.
 

racerone

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Basically you are looking at a marketing concept.-----------It is nothing but a 115 HP motor with a 100 XP decal on the cowling.----------XP stands for ---extra performance---.----------Just the basic V-4 that was the same from about 79 to 97 or so.
 

tallcanadian

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Well, I did it. She's mine. UV rays have been hard on it. Buddy surprised me with a very cool mint 20" Raker stainless prop.



 

Faztbullet

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Compression test 1st !!!! Crossflows are bad about coked rings and look thru the carbs to see if it has the Boyenson reeds as it has the decal...You will be back!!

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jimmbo

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You have got a bit of a collection there, I see an older(1960 - 1968) V4 cowl, a 76 or 77 70hp merc, and a 66 or 67 650 merc. I agree about the glass reeds
 

tallcanadian

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Thanks guys for your replies. Could you elaborate a bit on the Reeds. I know the owner told me he had some reed work done.

Hope I didn't buy junk. I turned down a 115 Ocean Pro.
 

tallcanadian

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You have got a bit of a collection there, I see an older(1960 - 1968) V4 cowl, a 76 or 77 70hp merc, and a 66 or 67 650 merc. I agree about the glass reeds

I have a few. 1976 Merc 650. 1967 Merc 650 shortie. A 1979 Merc 700. 1958 Gale Bucaneer 12 and same year 5hp. A 1953 Evinrude 15. 1982 Mariner 15hp. A 1972 Johnson 4hp. I just sold my 1977 Merc 850. I will be selling my 1976 650 in the next few weeks. Yeah, it's a sickness. Lol.
 

jimmbo

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Fiberglass reeds generally have much shorter life than the original reeds, and will require replacement. Good news is when a glass reed breaks, it usually doesn't cause damage to the engine as the metal ones do, but the metal ones rarely break. Some claim the glass reeds are superior to the originals regarding throttle response and idle quality, I've ran engines with both types, I didn't see enough difference to write home about. A couple of pics of the engine with the cowl off would be nice
 

tallcanadian

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Fiberglass reeds generally have much shorter life than the original reeds, and will require replacement. Good news is when a glass reed breaks, it usually doesn't cause damage to the engine as the metal ones do, but the metal ones rarely break. Some claim the glass reeds are superior to the originals regarding throttle response and idle quality, I've ran engines with both types, I didn't see enough difference to write home about. A couple of pics of the engine with the cowl off would be nice

Thanks Jimmbo. Very much appreciated. I will take some pics tomorrow with the cowling off.
 

tallcanadian

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I getting to know a bit about this motor. One thing I'm not sure on, I've heard where people unhook the VRO pump but the fuel lines pump through this as well. Does this pump the fuel too? What am I missing? I'm assuming the oil pump can be unhooked only.
 

flyingscott

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The oil and fuel pump are contained in one unit. You can disable the oil pump by disconnecting the oil tank hose from the motor and plug the nipple on the motor. Disconnect the sensor wires from the tank and, disconnect the wiring harness from the pump to the motor harness. That will disable the alarms then run the motor on a 50-1 fuel mix.
 

racerone

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It was already mentioned , do a compression test on this motor before you spend any " loonies " on it !!
 
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