1990 Lund Pro-V Galvantic Transom Pitting

[1morefish]

1990 Lund Pro-V 1700
1992 Johnson 90HP V-4
2000 Evinrude 9.9HP Kicker

Need help with transom repair disassembly.

I bought this boat for a new project. The boat needs a complete overhaul (All wood flooring replaced and hull painted). I noticed the transom has small through wall pin holes with white powder around edges. The center of the transom is solid (Checked Through Splashwell Access Port). Previous owner had a kicker motor installed on both the "Port and Starboard" side of the transom at one time. The transom leakage started here due to top cap damage from the kicker motor. This would explain why there is no rotting taking place in the center. What can I do to prevent this pitting prior to installing a new transom? Also any input on self-sealing rivits, marine primer/paint? The top 9 inch wide top rail plate overlaps transom cap. Any one out there know if I need to remove this for access? I am in the process of removing the splash well. The boat structure is built like a tank and the motor runs great. I have pictures, not sure the right way to post them.
Any help would greatly be appreciated.

Thanks,
1morefish

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1990 Lund Pro-V Galvantic Transom Pitting

Your corrosion is more than likely caused by trapped water between the transom wood and hull. Wire brush the aluminum and fill your holes with loctite marine epoxy or jb weld.

For bare aluminum use an etching primer like zinc chromate. Rustoleum makes good marine paint.

The self sealing rivets are called closed end blind rivets and I buy all of mine from JayCee's online:
http://www.rivetsonline.com/rivets-en/blind-rivets-en/closed-end-blind-rivets.html

The sticky at the top of the resto forum page has instructions for posting pics.

 

[1morefish]

Re: 1990 Lund Pro-V Galvantic Transom Pitting

Thanks jigngrub for your reply.

You are absolutely correct about water being trapped in hull. I found standing water sitting on top of the foam insulation.
The water has no place to go. The standing water is being wicked into the corners of the transom, which is causing the wood to decay over time. I understand LUND doesn't build the transom to last the life of the boat, however their design engineers should caught this issue and rectified it.

I have up close pictures showing the saturated foam and wet decayed wood. Just need to repair it correctly so it will never happen again for the life of this boat. I will also do the other things you mentioned also. I am going to create an access port hole for removal of the transom's Tow rings. This will allow fewer rivets to be disturbed. On this boat it appears I won't have to remove the back splash, just the drain tubes and the associated transom cap rivets. Again less disturbed rivets the better.

Lund has the best aluminum boats for walleye fishing in my opinion.

 

[1morefish]

Re: 1990 Lund Pro-V Galvantic Transom Pitting












9 Inch Wide Rail Cover Over Transom Cap



Wall Removal or Cut Access Hole In Panel





Posting Pictures, need guidance for removal of transom tow ring. Cut access hole in wall or remove all rivits in wall/storage compartment?
Also picture of 9 inch wide rail cover is overlapping transom cap. Removal of cover requires removal of 90 rivets per side. Any advanced help would be appreciated.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1990 Lund Pro-V Galvantic Transom Pitting

Can we get a pic of the stern of your boat from the inside and outside? A wider view from gunwale to gunwale (port to starboard).

 

[1morefish]

Re: 1990 Lund Pro-V Galvantic Transom Pitting
















Hope these pictures help

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1990 Lund Pro-V Galvantic Transom Pitting

They do.

I'd take the side walls off, and maybe with those off you won't have to do anything with the gunwales and will be able to slip and twist the transom wood out.

Maybe it's just me, but it looks like that splashwell is going to have to come out. It looks like either the splashwell has to come out or the gunwale tops are going to have to come off. I think removing the splashwell would be easier.

Those Lunds are solid because they put a lot of stuff in them... which is more stuff you got to take out to get to something.

 

[1morefish]

Re: 1990 Lund Pro-V Galvantic Transom Pitting

Thanks for your prompt feedback. This is my first Lund.
The splashwell will have to come out, I found another small pin hole under it.
I will try and remove the panels connected to the transom.

 

[Teamster]

Re: 1990 Lund Pro-V Galvantic Transom Pitting

Take your time and do it right, It wont be too bad once your into it,..

Take lot's of pictures, Not only for us to see, But to help you know how it goes back together,...

 

[1morefish]

Re: 1990 Lund Pro-V Galvantic Transom Pitting

Removed transom cap. Then I found Port/Starboard transom panels are riveted to hull. I will have to remove gunwale top caps for additional rivet removal.
Inside transom panel picture (Internal Rivets) and picture of bottom of transom panel tied into hull.

 

[1morefish]

Re: 1990 Lund Pro-V Galvantic Transom Pitting

Transom wood finally removed. Wood is covered up in white powder. Now the repairs will begin. Plan to use marine plywood unless some one has a better idea. Titebond III a good glue to use? What is a good resin cover for transom? Also looked on I-Boats for Taylor Made Male Boat Cover Fasteners (P/N 100402 Out of Stock), any one have a link where I may purchase some?

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1990 Lund Pro-V Galvantic Transom Pitting

MDO plywood is cheaper than marine and just as good as marine (they make boats out of it too), there's also the Aruco brand ABX plywood a lot of folks use on this site... it's cheaper too.

Exterior grade Spar urethane is a good sealer for the small amount of wood you have to seal, use 4 coats.

Titebond III is a real good waterproof adhesive.

 

[thiker15]

Re: 1990 Lund Pro-V Galvantic Transom Pitting

I rebuilt my lund alittle over a year ago 1988 prov dlx http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=317793 if you have any question feel free to ask

 

[thiker15]

Re: 1990 Lund Pro-V Galvantic Transom Pitting

Myself personally i would use marine ply

 

[1morefish]

Re: 1990 Lund Pro-V Galvantic Transom Pitting

Thanks for your input jigngrub and thiker. I used marine plywood and encapsulated with (Clear Coat Polyester Marine) resin. Washed down all metal surfaces with soap and water. All required holes filled and sanded in transom skins. Skuffed up original paint top/bottom of transom inside and out. Washed all surfaces with vinegar/water. Purchased 2 cans of Rust-Oleum Self Etching Primer from auto parts store. The primer said to clean all areas with mineral spirits. Next lightly sand wet/dry using #400 sand paper. I re-cleaned all walls with mineral spirits to be on safe side. Should I rinse again with water after mineral spirits? Next prime with 3 light coats. Thought I would use Rust-Oleum oil based paint for transom. Read sevral threads on painting Starcrafts and other boats in forum. Is Rust-Oleum paint a good paint to use or do I spend more coin for a top finish marine coat like Interlux Brightside 1 part epoxy? It is my understanding fresh water boats don't need a special bottom coat paint? Then use a clear coat finish to extend paint life and reduce chipping? I want the paint job to last several years. Do I use the primer on bare/sanded un-painted metal spots only? I also used a brass wire wheel on all existing transom rivets to ensure good final coat. I viewed a YouTube video on re-painting aluminum boats and found this to be a requirement or you will have paint issues later on around the rivet edges. I thought about painting the transom one color instead of two? The entire boat needs a paint job, however I haven't caught a walleye/fish out of her yet and I still need to update the interior since the gunwales and console were required to be reomved. Can't wait to get the transom finished and move on to the interior work.

 

[thiker15]

Re: 1990 Lund Pro-V Galvantic Transom Pitting

It was nice talking to you last week. Glad I could help. Talking about painting, I just finished painting mine. Got the paint code from Lund and bought ppg paint came out great I also did the lettering and pin stripping myself, I'll send you the pictures.

 

[thiker15]

Re: 1990 Lund Pro-V Galvantic Transom Pitting

almost forgot i'm looking for a console for you Ill let you know when I find one

 

[fishrdan]

Re: 1990 Lund Pro-V Galvantic Transom Pitting

Got the paint code from Lund and bought ppg paint came out great

I did the same with my Crestliner, called them, got the paint codes then had a local auto paint supply store mix up 2 quarts. Add in reducer, catalyst, etc and it was a bit over $100. I repainted the transom and you can't tell it's been repainted, darn near perfect match and breaking the edge at corners, you can't see the difference in the old and new paint.

Rusto would be cheaper, but it will look "repainted". Another downside to Rusto is it takes for ever to cure, unless you use a catalyst, Valspar enamel catalyst. One "ooops" with uncatalyzed Rusto and you'll be waiting several weeks (month in winter) for it to harden enough so you can sand it and re-spray...... (don't ask :facepalm

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1990 Lund Pro-V Galvantic Transom Pitting

I used marine plywood and encapsulated with (Clear Coat Polyester Marine) resin.

Did you use the polyester resin by itself or did you use fiberglass cloth too?

 

[1morefish]

Re: 1990 Lund Pro-V Galvantic Transom Pitting

Used resin by it self, 2 coats turned out great. Now trying to match paint. When I called Lund they were no help, the person I spoke to said their records don't go back that far? Resto sells a Marine Top coat paint. I wasn't aware there was an issue with set time.