1990 rude 120

N Wolf

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I need help fixing what my tech did. He rebuilt my carbs and now I have lost 250 rpm off the top. Also I think He may have messed with the timing. What should my wot timing be?
 

Gazza 2

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Mar 18, 2012
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Re: 1990 rude 120

The specs I have for your motor,an E120TLES show a maximum advance of 17 to 19 degrees before top dead centre with WOT RPM from 5000 to 6000 RPM.This data is from a Seloc manual.Also check that all the throttle butterflies are synchronised.
Cheers Gazza
PS If your mechanic cant or wont explain what he has done get another mechanic.
 

SparkieBoat

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3,643
Re: 1990 rude 120

most likely just a link and sync will fix you up, but check that timing just to make sure.
 

N Wolf

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Re: 1990 rude 120

Are there any mixture screws he could have messed up? It also seames to be lean at idle, and I dont know how to adjust that.
 

SparkieBoat

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Re: 1990 rude 120

what seems lean about the idle? lean sneeze? best to leave the idle screws alone unless some one else messed with them. but you could try backing them out 1/4 turn at the time, but you have to run it in between each change to see how it effects how the engine starts out. you need to invest in a manual.
 

N Wolf

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Re: 1990 rude 120

It does sneeze a little, and it stumbles when going to full throttle. I found this weekend that if I tap the choke then pin the throtle it takes off fine. The main thing that concerns me is the slight los of top end. What could he have done during a carb rebuild to cause it. I miss my
speed.
 

dazk14

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Jul 22, 2008
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Re: 1990 rude 120

It does sneeze a little, and it stumbles when going to full throttle. I found this weekend that if I tap the choke then pin the throtle it takes off fine. The main thing that concerns me is the slight loss of top end. What could he have done during a carb rebuild to cause it. I miss my
speed.

He could have installed the plastic washer that comes in the carb repair kit under the seat. It isn't used on that motor as the carb kits cover numerous models.

That would tend to make every throttle setting run lean. Lean at WOT can easily damage a motor.

Did he charge you for Qty 4 carb kits?

It's also possible one, or more of the carb body to throttle body seals got pinched or cover plate gaskets loose.

Take a look at the plugs and see if the colors are all same.

That's a start anyways.
 

SparkieBoat

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Re: 1990 rude 120

above plus, maybe idle screws got turned in some, or a clog in the idle passages. I would take the carbs apart and clean them good including a overnight soak, then reinstall them and if you still got problems, adjust the idle screws.
 

dazk14

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Re: 1990 rude 120

just an fyi...There are no idle screws on that motor.
 

daselbee

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Re: 1990 rude 120

He could have installed the plastic washer that comes in the carb repair kit under the seat. It isn't used on that motor as the carb kits cover numerous models.

That would tend to make every throttle setting run lean.

Can you explain why this would be the effect if those washers are added?
 

dazk14

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Re: 1990 rude 120

Can you explain why this would be the effect if those washers are added?


Don't have time at the moment to get too detailed...but it drops the seat. The seat is located so closely to the pivot point of the float, the effect at the farthest end of the float is very significant and fuel in the bowl will be lower, which affects the carb fuel metering(leaner).

Most people that use the washer where it doesn't belong, will mangle the float and get it parallel, but it's normally always lower. I've also seen the metal have a bit of the memory and spring back a bit overnight (we've "futzed" around in the shop).

I'll try to clean this post up later, or maybe fish out a carb and a kit and show (via pics) what I'm referring to.
 

N Wolf

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Re: 1990 rude 120

Could a slight change in the timing cause a 250 rpm loss on the top end?
 

daselbee

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Re: 1990 rude 120

Could a slight change in the timing cause a 250 rpm loss on the top end?

Yes, just a couple of degrees will cause loss of WOT max rpms.

Right now, I am running 16 degrees (18 spec), and I am hitting 5000 rpm with 1500 lbs of man fat as a load, 45 mph.

I am gonna bump it 2 degrees up, and run with no load, an I want to see 5500 or better....we will see...:rolleyes:
 

SparkieBoat

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Re: 1990 rude 120

you basically want to advance your timing as far as possible, with out passing the recommended max setting. It will create a hotter burn,..but too hot and you burn a hole in your pistons.
 

N Wolf

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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May 17, 2010
Messages
89
Re: 1990 rude 120

I turned up the timing a bit. I think it was at 12 degrees but Im not sure. The highest I could get it to rev on the boat ramp is 4k. I did get my speed back though. Gained almost 500 rpm. And 4-5 mph.
 

SparkieBoat

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Re: 1990 rude 120

timing is a important thing and needs to be exact. you need to check top dead center of your #1 piston and make sure your timing arrow is properly lined up. then remove all spark plugs and I put the plugs back in the wire and lay them on the engine block so they can spark, this will avoid possible electronics damage. I connect a spark gap tester to the #1 plug wire. then if you have quick start you have to ground out the wire going to the head sensor, next to the tan wire..maybe it is black and white striped. this will disable quick start. you then tunr the engine over and shoot it with the timing light and set idle timing..should be around 4 ADTC, you can later adjust this timing for best idle with engine running. ( you have to subtract 4 degrees when doing your timing static like this so 4 degrees ATDC idle should be set to 8 ATDC, and 18 degrees BTDC timing should be set to 14 BTDC) now disconnect throttle cable and move throttle manually to WOT position. set timing to desired setting. you should double check your timing settings while running down the river. again, timing is crucial.
 
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