1992 Volvo 230b Ignition Coil Options

BlakeCary

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I searched and didn't find anything that would answer my question, if I did then my apologies.

Im pretty sure my Crank No Start is due to my Ignition Coil. My local boat shop said that the replacement is Sierra #834462. What other options do I have to use to replace this? Will any internal resistor 12v coil from Auto Zone work? Is there a "performance" option or upgrade?
 

Scott Danforth

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Coils seldom go bad. Most likely you have a different problem.
 

BlakeCary

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I have a new cap, rotor, capacitor with no spark. It won't even sputter like there is any spark.
I ohm tested and I have 10.3k on high and 3 on low.... I smell fuel and it is getting air so what else would make it turn and not get spark?
Kill switch broke? Fuses?
It does have 12v going to the coil.
 
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Scott Danforth

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Check to see you have +12 bolts to the + side of the coil
 

dennis461

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I have a new cap, rotor, capacitor with no spark. It won't even sputter like there is any spark.
I ohm tested and I have 10.3k on high and 3 on low.... I smell fuel and it is getting air so what else would make it turn and not get spark?
Kill switch broke? Fuses?
It does have 12v going to the coil.

What is high and low???

How do you check for spark, timing light? Wet hands on coil?
There is a wire which goes from the negative side of the coil to the distributer..
If you disconnect it at the distributer, and tap it against ground, your coil should send a spark to a plug.
Of course you cannot do this test if gasoline fumes are around.
Tapping against ground will simulate the points opening and closing
It is a method I use when too lazy to find the timing light.
 

Maclin

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Well, thought he said AQ230B which is a 4 cylinder with points. He also mentioned a Capacitor, same as Condensor, which Points systems have and electronic dizzies do not. Not much more to go on, sorry if I misled.
 

BlakeCary

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What is high and low???

How do you check for spark, timing light? Wet hands on coil?
There is a wire which goes from the negative side of the coil to the distributer..
If you disconnect it at the distributer, and tap it against ground, your coil should send a spark to a plug.
Of course you cannot do this test if gasoline fumes are around.
Tapping against ground will simulate the points opening and closing
It is a method I use when too lazy to find the timing light.

I watched a "How to test Coil" video on YouTube and the guy said High was + and Output and Low was - and Output. Not sure if thats what its called but the coil wasnt bad.
 

BlakeCary

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Well, thought he said AQ230B which is a 4 cylinder with points. He also mentioned a Capacitor, same as Condensor, which Points systems have and electronic dizzies do not. Not much more to go on, sorry if I misled.


Sorry for vague information, I am NO expert with this by any means. I am trying to get up to speed on all the names and numbers of this boat. I work on cars all the time but Carbs and Caps are not my forte'.
 

Maclin

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Most older boats are carbureted and some engine models had a late start (no pun intended) with electronic ignition and stuck with breaker point type ignitions for a lot longer year-wise than cars. Your Carbs and Caps terminology to me points to a legacy Breaker Points type of system. If the Capacitor you referred to is actually an electronic module then it is not a breaker points type of system. We kinda need to know what type ignition system is and what all was done for the tune-up to help you find out if you missed something or not. For instance, if it is a breaker points type system then the key component to get changed out then set correctly are the mechanical breaker points, and you did not mention anything about those if they are there.

Do you know how many spark plugs your engine has.
 

Maclin

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There are downloadable Operators Manual Service Book and Owner's Manual in PDF's available for AQ230B, also looks like Service Manual available for purchase. that is how I looked up the tuneup specs in Owner's Manual. I am still in the dark about what exactly is being worked on.

From this page, type in 230B in the Product Designation (Application) , click Search and follow the trail...

http://www.volvopenta.com/VOLVOPENTA...n_engines.aspx
 

BlakeCary

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Jun 15, 2016
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Most older boats are carbureted and some engine models had a late start (no pun intended) with electronic ignition and stuck with breaker point type ignitions for a lot longer year-wise than cars. Your Carbs and Caps terminology to me points to a legacy Breaker Points type of system. If the Capacitor you referred to is actually an electronic module then it is not a breaker points type of system. We kinda need to know what type ignition system is and what all was done for the tune-up to help you find out if you missed something or not. For instance, if it is a breaker points type system then the key component to get changed out then set correctly are the mechanical breaker points, and you did not mention anything about those if they are there.

Do you know how many spark plugs your engine has.


lol Im not an idiot, I am VERY good with cars, just not familiar with 1990's and older stuff. Its a AQ230b (4cyl) The capacitor (part#5) is a capacitor not a EM.
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I did the tune up in the beginning of last season (plugs, oil, cap, rotor, capacitor) It ran like a champ all season until the last trip on the lake before winterizing where is had a crank no start condition. I said hell with it and just winterized it and was going to deal with it next season. Now its next season.

11062.jpg

I did find a service manual so if the rain stops I will just continue troubleshooting part by part.
 

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BlakeCary

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Jun 15, 2016
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There are downloadable Operators Manual Service Book and Owner's Manual in PDF's available for AQ230B, also looks like Service Manual available for purchase. that is how I looked up the tuneup specs in Owner's Manual. I am still in the dark about what exactly is being worked on.

From this page, type in 230B in the Product Designation (Application) , click Search and follow the trail...

http://www.volvopenta.com/VOLVOPENTA...n_engines.aspx



Thanks for that info and all your help.
 

Maclin

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Part #2 is the breaker points. New ones need to be installed and the initial gap set by moving the bottom plate and tightening down part#6, then a dwell meter used to check the dwell, may need to adjust the gap to get it into range.
 
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