Re: 1993 Glastron SSV 175 prop for raising bow.
If you are hearing your drive-shaft u-joints before you are getting the prop to think about blowing out of the water at full speed, then it sounds like you may have a problem with your u-joints, gimbal bearing, or engine alignment...when were these items last serviced/inspected/replaced? Your 1993 boat was built back when u-joints had grease zerks on them, and the only way to access these two zerks is to remove the outdrive from the boat. Mercruiser states that this U-joint lubrication is required annually...and there are an awful lot of boats out there that have NEVER seen a grease gun in this particular location becuase it is difficult to access. These boats usually have noisy U-joints. Mercruiser also requires hand-checking the gimbal bearing for excess play, and then checking engine alignment while you have the drive removed....again annually.
If most guys in your area are just leaving trim down for everything except full speed, then most guys in your area are using their trim wrong....or more likely they don't all own 1993 SSV 175's. On most boats, trim should be used at ALL speeds...it is to be used actively to simply dial in the best handling and most efficient position for every individual speed. For example if you like to "cruise" at 3,200 rpms, then you should actively use your trim to find the boat's maximum speed for 3,200 rpm....this is the most efficient position for the trim at 3,200. And when you choose to run 2,500, or 3,800 rpm, you will need yet a different trim position for each of these. It's a "feel" thing.
You made a comment that when you "run trim down it really plows." My suggestion for this fix is simply to never run with the trim down....because this position makes your boat plow. And I'm seriously NOT trying to be a smart aXX. Each boat is set up and designed different from another, and therefore trim needs to be utilized however it works best for each individual boat. My old 1992 Rinker could NEVER run with trim down at planing speed...it handled like crap if I did that and pretty much did what you are describing. But after trimming it up, even at speeds as low as 18 to 20 mph, it handled real nice. My current 1999 Stingray REQUIRES running with trim full down up to about 25 or 30 mph...and only then I can start trimming out very gradually as speeds approach 60 mph. If I trim out too early with that boat causes severe porpoising....but my Rinker would NEVER propoise at any speed or trim setting. My only point in making this comparison is to illustrate how each of these boats requires DRASTICALLY different treatment of the trim button, even though neither boat had a "problem" that needed correcting. Just a driver adjustment.
Not saying that your boat doesn't have a problem....it might...I'm just saying that it MIGHT not have a problem and I'd hate to see you spending money unnecessarily on a new prop that doesn't change a darn thing about the design of your hull and trim system. You might actually be able to correct this problem entirely by spending zero dollars and just rethinking the way you use your trim. And I could also be wrong....I've never ridden with you to know your driving habits or how your boat handles.
I find it extremely unlikely that you have ANY extra weight in the bow from water weight. Water always flows down hill, which means it flows directly to the stern when it enters the boat. Unless your boat was parked with the stern ABOVE the bow for a decade or better, and left to flood, this is not your issue either...nor is a single 25 pound anchor. Look elsewhere to solve your problem.
