Re: 1994 454 king cobra cone clutch shifting problems
I am really wondering if it could be something stupid simple like the mechanic filling the drive wrong or using a full synthetic or something like that.
Full synthetic oil is recommended for all cone clutch drives. You can use Mercury HP, Mobil-1, Am$oil Marine, Royal Purple, You name it etc.
Mech took the engine out to work the heads and now I have shifting problems the 3rd time on the water. He says the shift cables are adjusted right but he doesnt know squat about later model OMCs. Any advise? The boat is in great shape but only worth about 10k running properly.
Well, the mechanic HAD to remove the drive to get the engine out. He also had to readjust everything(or should have) upon re-installation. If the shift cables aren't adjusted correctly, I think it might be on him.
I am not entirely sure you have a Volvo SX now. You appear to have the infamous "interim OMC Cobra Cone-clutch" drive that has the raw water impeller on the back of the drive that is NLA. Many people installed a Volvo engine mounted raw water pump on those because they couldn't find impellers any more.
Do you have an engine driven raw water pump installed on your engine?
Also, do you have electronic fuel injection AND electronic spark control/IGN?
The boat is in great shape but only worth about 10k running properly.
I am sorry to say that you may have a completely worthless engine and drive that is not worth spending a lot of time and money on......This is also why there's not very many marine mechanics that will even want to try to fix it for you......There was 3 or 4 years from 1990 to approx 1994 where OMC had a drive that was neither earlier "dog-clutch" nor Volvo SX (which are both still supported) .......
It's possible that the forward cone clutch simply failed. Did it go into reverse ok?
If you look at the parts breakout above, #16 (both of them) are your forward and reverse clutch (halves) and #37 is the "other" half. If one of them or one side of #37 is severely worn/damaged, they would be need to be replaced.
That's literally a complete "rebuild" since you wouldn't want to put the drive back together with out resetting the bearing preloads, new seals, and possibly new bearings, shims, etc where needed etc.......
I found #37 for approx $340 and 16 is part of a complete gear set. That won't be cheap......
If the engine still has the EFI and electronic Sptifire ignition, you can of course, go to a carburetor and a regular distributor (if it isn't already)
You can also do what I did and swap the entire mess for a Mercruiser or Volvo engine and drive.
I know the above doesn't sound very inviting. Sorry about that.
Rick