1994 Four Winns 5.0 OMC Cobra didn't get winterized

[tr@v1s]

Hey guys. I took a chance on a boat because the price was low enough I can probably by a bad hull with a good motor and still come out way ahead. It's a 1994 Four Winns 190 Horizon. The boat is in incredible shape. looks to have spent it's entire life under cover. It has a grand total of 28 original hours and it looks to be very legit from the condition of the boat. As the title says though, this beauty was neglected and it's not good.

Here's what I verified before buying:
Good:
All electrical on the boat seems to function properly
Motor turns over
Getting spark on at least one cylinder (didn't check the rest)
I can't visually see any cracks in the block itself (I know that doesn't mean there aren't any)
Outdrive seems solid (locks into gear both ways as it should)
Trim unit works as it should
Oil is clean and not milky

Bad:
Both exhaust manifolds are cracked. The guy bought some used ones - but they are not correct. (maybe I can identify what they actually go to and resale for a little money)

Intake in cracked at thermostat housing area
Several freeze plugs were pushed out

I didn't have the correct socket/swivels to pull the spark plugs so I could check compression. Am I crazy to think that will be way easier to check after removing exhaust manifolds?

So, here's the question(s):

1. Should I start with removing exhaust manifolds and checking compression?
2. If I get good compression on all cylinders and don't find any cracks, would it be safe to assume the block survived and didn't get damaged or should I do some other tests?
3. Is it best to buy replacements exhaust manifolds if the motor is able to be prove good or is having them welded a good option?
4. Anything else that (in my ignorance) I am not thinking of and should test before deciding to invest in trying to salvage the motor rather than just trying to get a replacement ( I have my eyes on a few, but I don't like the prices, or they are older and I'm not certain they are interchangeable with mine)?

Doing the work, pulling the motor and working on it through the winter in the shop doesn't bother me. Anything I haven't done before I can learn. I have worked on my mercruiser and have done a fair amount of mechanical work over the years both as an industrial maintenance tech and having a dad that ran an auto mechanic shop growing up. I am by far not a combustion engine expert and have plenty to still learn though. So, don't be surprised if you tell me to try something and I asked for extra explanation. I appreciate any help and guidance you all can give me.

 

[Scott Danforth]

The block didn't survive

Get a new long block and new marine exhaust

 

[Lou C]

That’s the only way to get a working boat without wasting a lot of time on an engine that’s scrap iron. Gonna cost you though

 

[tr@v1s]

The block didn't survive

Get a new long block and new marine exhaust

I do realize this is most likely the case, but - because I am hard headed and like to salvage everything and prove what is and isn't bad without making assumptions - how would you go about proving the block is bad or good if you can't see any physical damage?

 

[Scott Danforth]

I do realize this is most likely the case, but - because I am hard headed and like to salvage everything and prove what is and isn't bad without making assumptions - how would you go about proving the block is bad or good if you can't see any physical damage?

pressure test the water jacket to 15 psi. it should hold 15-20 psi forever

 

[flashback]

Check transom and stringers for rot before you blow a bunch of coin on a motor.

 

[tr@v1s]

Check transom and stringers for rot before you blow a bunch of coin on a motor.

The hull is in immaculate condition. It's been covered pretty much it's whole life and only has 28 hours on the engine. This is just a "someone was a moron and didn't winterize a nearly brand new boat" (even though it's 30 years old). Everything in this boat is original and looks almost like it just rolled off the show room floor. That's why I was to save this one and took the gamble on it. The trailer is also in perfect - basically new condition. I gave $1250 for it all and that included about a $400 cover that came with it. All decals and everything look like the sun has never touched them.

 

[tr@v1s]

pressure test the water jacket to 15 psi. it should hold 15-20 psi forever

So, I would obviously have to go ahead and replace the freeze plugs. Would I have to do anything to the exhaust ports where the manifolds bolt up? Sorry if that's a dumb question. I don't really understand how that all gets tied together to send the water back out the exhaust at this point in my learning.

 

[Scott Danforth]

there is no such things as freeze plugs.

there are core plugs, used to get the core sand out of the casting at the foundry.

if ice pushed the core plugs out, the block is cracked.

you dont have to worry about the exhaust ports. water gets pumped into the manifold by the hoses connected to the thermostat housing.

 

[tr@v1s]

there is no such things as freeze plugs.

there are core plugs, used to get the core sand out of the casting at the foundry.

if ice pushed the core plugs out, the block is cracked.

you dont have to worry about the exhaust ports. water gets pumped into the manifold by the hoses connected to the thermostat housing.

Oh nice. Well, that explains a little more. So...any suggestions on where to price a long block as previously recommended? Still looking into buying a complete boat with a bad hull and swapping.

Any suggestions I should consider with this particular boat if I come across options for a swap?

For example: If I found a good Mercruiser setup in a bad hull, how bad would it be to switch from the OMC to Mercruiser?

Would going up or down in motor size be a bad idea?

Just trying to consider all options and get a good idea how broad of a search I should make. Want to find the balance between money spent and end result.

 

[Lou C]

Since you have a '94 it's possible to have a '93 drivetrain in a '94 boat and in this case it makes a big difference because the '93 was the last year of the original OMC Cobra with dog clutch shifting, the '94 was a new design using a modified Cobra transom mount and a Volvo style drive with cone clutch shifting in the upper gear housing. Post up a pic of what you have then we can tell what year drivetrain you actually have.
Also, to add to the complexity, OMC and Volvo used both GM and Ford engines. Looking at a source for an OMC catalog, in both '93 & '94 the 5.0 engines were Fords, not GM. If the distributor is in the front, then for sure it's a Ford 5.0. Hopefully it's a carb engine because the Ford EFI marine parts are NLA. The other thing that's NLA is the module in the Prestolite BID electronic ignition, but you might be able to replace that with a Petronix unit.
I would not waste time and money with a used engine, get a re-man with a warrantee from a local engine builder, in the case of the Ford, that's your only option, I don't think that there are new ones available, there are for the GM 5.7 though.
In the long run it's the best plan, if you actually want to use the boat without worrying what's going to go wrong every time you use it.

 

[kenny nunez]

Since Ford engines are stronger than the chevies I have seen more than once where core plugs got pushed out and the block survived. Probably the thing to do first is to pull the engine and inspect it. If you lucked out and the block is good just buy new manifolds and use the boat.
You should be able to find a used intake manifold.

 

[tr@v1s]

Since you have a '94 it's possible to have a '93 drivetrain in a '94 boat and in this case it makes a big difference because the '93 was the last year of the original OMC Cobra with dog clutch shifting, the '94 was a new design using a modified Cobra transom mount and a Volvo style drive with cone clutch shifting in the upper gear housing. Post up a pic of what you have then we can tell what year drivetrain you actually have.
Also, to add to the complexity, OMC and Volvo used both GM and Ford engines. Looking at a source for an OMC catalog, in both '93 & '94 the 5.0 engines were Fords, not GM. If the distributor is in the front, then for sure it's a Ford 5.0. Hopefully it's a carb engine because the Ford EFI marine parts are NLA. The other thing that's NLA is the module in the Prestolite BID electronic ignition, but you might be able to replace that with a Petronix unit.
I would not waste time and money with a used engine, get a re-man with a warrantee from a local engine builder, in the case of the Ford, that's your only option, I don't think that there are new ones available, there are for the GM 5.7 though.
In the long run it's the best plan, if you actually want to use the boat without worrying what's going to go wrong every time you use it.

It's almost like you have been around this a bit. LOL My understanding is that this one is a Ford 302. But I will take pictures when I can and post.

 

[Lou C]

It's almost like you have been around this a bit. LOL My understanding is that this one is a Ford 302. But I will take pictures when I can and post.

I've owned a 4.3 4bbl Cobra for 23 years so I'm pretty familiar with the changes over the years and the challenges in finding certain parts, etc. Also post up a pic of the drive. If it looks like a Volvo SX painted dark grey, then it's a '94, if instead it is flat across the top, painted the same dark grey, then it's a 93.
Nothing wrong with finding a used intake, replace all the core plugs and air pressure test the block/heads. You have to get a used intake anyway.
Is it a carb engine or EFI?

 

[Scott Danforth]

if the distributor is in back, its a chev motor. if the distributor is in front, its a ford motor.

and yes, some ford motors have survived freezing.

 

[tr@v1s]

The FB Marketplace ad is still up, so, here is the link where you can see some of the pictures of the boat. Maybe you can see the drive clearly enough.

Log into Facebook

Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.

www.facebook.com

 

[Lou C]

From what I can see it looks like it's a 94, that looks like the joint venture between OMC and Volvo where the drive was switched to cone clutch shifting and it is the same as a Volvo SX. Which is better for you since parts are easier to find and more mechanics will work on it, than for the older pure OMC version.