1994 johnson 50hp stuttering

MASTER Brian

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 26, 2006
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738
Picked up a 1990 pontoon with the above motor on it, believe it's a 1994 engine. Had the boat out last year after getting it and determined it needed a carb rebuild. Did that myself and had a shop tune them. All was great. Took it out a few weeks ago for first time this year and she ran great. Had her out this weekend and ran great until this afternoon when she started seeming to stutter above 3000rpm. Thinning maybe prop issue I put on the spare prop. Didn't make a difference. ... In fact maybe ran worse. ... swapped them back and no better. Thinking maybe bad gas, hooked up spare tank, which uses didn't fuel line to engine. ... no better. Took her in... Off to parts store to get some seafoam and new plugs, hoping that might solve it.
 

MASTER Brian

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Mar 26, 2006
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Phone posted too soon. ... Took her out by myself and she ran fine for a minute then started up again. The seafoam was a full pint in about 5 gallons of gas. Bought this boat from a neighbor who got from his dad. Neighbor put a new coil and something else on it not long before selling to me after he determined wasn't for him. I de-carbed the motor before doing the carb kit, so shouldn't be carbon. Where shall I look? I will also note, had some issues with key not turning boat off, bought new ignition switch but haven't installed. Had been slight issue while out here, but messing with key by turning or chocking has worked. My thought on key is ignition doesn't seem to tighten well, thinking that's the issue with that as the whole assembly turns at times.
 

MASTER Brian

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What's the best way to test that? Actually just went to load it after sitting for a few hours and she seemed to run great. Hmmm....
 

Bosunsmate

Admiral
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Apr 7, 2012
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6,135
when it starts to stutter start priming the fuel bulb to act as a manual pump.
 

MASTER Brian

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Mar 26, 2006
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Unfortunately, never got a chance to put her back on the water. Is there an easy way to test this at home on a hose? If not I'll try to find a helper to get her back to the lake over the weekend or something.

I might even look at a rebuild kit for the pump and just do it, I'd really like to add oil injection back onto the boat, but that might not be a cheap or easy task and I doubt it was original, but neither is the motor and I think it did have it at one time.
 

MASTER Brian

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Mar 26, 2006
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Life kept getting in the way last summer so I never got a chance to take this boat back out and I had planned on getting it to the shop over the winter as I figured by the time I towed it to the lake and home I'd be out not much more than the gas back and forth from the lake. Winter and rainy spring have kept me from doing much more, but it's now time to get this boat up and running. If I can't figure out something in the next week or two it's going to the shop.

Trying to remember where this was left off, but the plugs seemed to all look fine, I put new ones in at the lake and from what I recall they all seemed to look fine with a good burn, so I'm not thinking carb issue or spark issue, but I'll double check later tonight hopefully.

If plugs all look good am I wrong to think it has to be fuel at this point? Unless it's a spun prop or prop shaft, but considering I tried a 2nd prop, I'm doubting any of that.

I did call the shop yesterday to inquire on their current turn around on getting her in and out and they can't take it until the 10th, but she did say typically if it's a fuel pump it'll start and die. Is that true? She also seemed to say the fuel bulb would go flat. Are those things to look for?

I'm also thinking of trying to replace some fuel lines and I'll probably thoroughly clean both tanks to insure it isn't picking up any garbage that may be settled in the tanks. What about fuel filter?

Thanks for anything. I'm hoping I can figure it out on the trailer.
 

MASTER Brian

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Mar 26, 2006
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Finally found time to get the boat on the water today. She started right up on the trailer, backed her off the trailer and idled around,a few times with a bit more gas while waiting on the person parking my trailer. All good, ran very smooth, picked up my passenger and we "idled out" once past the no wake zone, I gave her gas and she sputtered and died. I tried and tried to get her to start and nothing. Had my passenger prime the fuel bulb a few times and it started to fire a few times, but just wouldn't completely fire. Battery dies, I pull the cowl off the engine and the fuel filter is empty. I prime the bulb again and it fills up the filter. We get a tow back to shore, load her up and here I am....

We did some reading on the way back home and some things say replace the fuel lines, some say it could be the filter or even the primer bulb and of course a few say possibly a cracked diaphragm on the fuel filter. Fuel tank vent was also mentioned.

I'm guessing not a spark issue, but I realize it's a possibility and that's what the boat shop is thinking whilst talking over the phone. Worst case it goes to them on the 28th. Plugs I pulled out looked good and I will double check the new plugs that I put in last year that don't have much time on them, but I am pretty sure I checked last year and they looked good. Are NGK's OK? My friend said he read they weren't recommended for a 70hp Johnson....it was what I could get. The carbs have a weekend on them at best since a rebuild by me, but tuned by the shop. I'm also going to somewhat rule out fuel tank vent, primer and fuel line, because I have two tanks, both worked then neither worked. Brand new fuel filler cap on main tank with gauge and vent...spare tank is a 6 gallon metal style. I can't recall if I changed fuel filter, I remember buying one, but it didn't work as was wrong size. Can't recall if I bought another one, but I do recall thinking all was good there.

What I plan on doing is buying two new primer bulbs and new fuel line from tanks to the motor. Is there a quick release that can be bought to make syphoning the tanks quicker? I'm not talking about the connection from line to motor, I'm talking about something else inline. I'll also try to replace all the fuel line from the cowel inlets to the carb as well as the filter. If they aren't an issue now, I don't want them to be an issue later.

Since I'm leaning towards this being a fuel pump issue, if I pull apart the pump, is it easy to find a cracked diaghram? Is it better to rebuild my current pump or buy a new unit? I'm not sure if this motor has the ability to be an oil injection motor, but if so, I'd love to convert it back. I hate mixing the oil with the gas....not sure why!

Hope someone can provide some more answers. Also, can a fuel pump issue easily be diagnosed while on ears in the driveway?
 

MASTER Brian

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Mar 26, 2006
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Just double checked the engine model # and its J50TLEOD, which cross references a 1995 Johnson 50HP. It also has a 3rd nipple blocked off at the cowel, by where the fuel lines enter. Am I correct to assume that's an oil injection line? If the pump is a VRO, can I just buy an oil tank and install?

Ok, now some more checking, it looks like the VRO pump is about $400, but I can't find a rebuild kit. I am pretty sure this is the same pump I have, but I'd have to double check. I see I can buy the non VRO pump, but will it work ok? How do I know...I'm pre-mixing as it is and for $300 I'll keep doing so.

If it makes any difference, I have a VRO pump that was working off of a 1986 Evinrude XP150 that I rebuilt for my '86 Ranger. I only replaced the pump because I was sticking a bunch into a complete rebuild when it stuck a ring and I didn't want to mix oil for it and I didn't want the old pump to fail after a rebuild. Any chance I can use any of it?
 
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MASTER Brian

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 26, 2006
Messages
738
Any ideas on this? I'll probably try to pull the pump tonight/tomorrow. A friend suggested trying to start the boat with the pump unhooked at the carbs to see if it would squirt fuel. Sounds a bit dangerous if it hits any Rouge sparks, but maybe i could attach some spare hose and direct the flow into a can/bottle.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,433
Look at how / what pump is installed on the 48 hp models like yours.----About $100 and attach directly to the side of the top cylinder with 10-24 screws and a gasket.--Remove the plug between the 2 screw holes.---Plug the pulse port for the VRO pump.
 
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