1994 Stingray 609ZP Transom Problems. Fix or Junk it?

slowgsxr97

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May 22, 2017
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I will try to keep this short. Just bought my first pleasure boat. 1994 Stingray 609zp. 4.3 Mercruiser, 373 hours, really clean inside and out besides the transom. I dont know much about fiberglass boats, I have always had aluminum Jons, and jet skis. I bought this for a project, but thinking I may have to part out.

No idea what the previous owner did, gimbal housing has caulk around it. Has transom cracks and flexes. He had to know he had an issue and just ran it until it got really messed up. Last time he had it out the engine coupler stripped leaving him stranded, said the bilge kept up fine while he was towed back.

Im going to put up a video and pic. Let me know your opinions if I should dig into this, or just part it out. Its a good looking boat, Just afraid it may be to far gone. I wont know much before I get the motor out. Just looking for opinions and options at this point. Thanks!!!
 

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Woodonglass

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for sure you'll need to replace the transom. Does the deck have any soft spots? How does it look in the engine compartment? Do you know how it was stored and maintained? Most boats of this vintage will require a full restoration. That'll cost between $3-5K. If you like the boat and don't mind some itchy yukky work, then go for it. How much do you have invested in her?
 

slowgsxr97

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May 22, 2017
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Deck feels solid, engine compartment looks good, always had it winterized at a local marina. It was always stored inside or covered. "per previous owner" Im not sure what the engine and out drive is worth, but I have 500 in it. It was an impulse buy. I didn't do any research prior to purchase unfortunatly.

Is that 3-5k for someone else to do it? I have a little fiberglass experience.
 

spoilsofwar

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Contact stingray, (843) 383-4507, see if this year was made with the full fiberglass stringer system they adopter at some point. If so, it will still need a transom, but at least your project will be that much easier. If not, you're probably looking at a full gut and rebuild. As WOG mentions, if the deck is soft anywhere that will need replacement as well. Stingrays have wood floors even if they are of the wood-free stringer construction.

It is sure a pretty hull to just dump it, but I may be biased (it's the predecessor of my Stingray 195CX).
 

slowgsxr97

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May 22, 2017
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I will give them a ring tomorrow. I assume the transoms are always done from the inside on these. Theres a big crack and alot of hairline cracks under the out drive on the outside of the boat. I dont know what to do with them.
 

slowgsxr97

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May 22, 2017
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I called stingray this morning, waiting on a return call.

More NOOB questions. I took some more pictures today. The transom is bumped out in just the engine compartment area. Is this normally how transoms are built?Could just this area be cut out and redone, or is the wood going to go all the way across? Also where the gimbal mounts looks formed in fiberglass, I have no idea how I would rebuild that part.

Thoughts?






 

Scott06

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Apr 20, 2014
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For me it would come down to the condition of the rest of the boat, if stringers and floor are bad, how much you have into it already, and how much you enjoy doing this work. While not a transom, I did a repower of a cracked block in a 21 ft searay last year, to me it made sense because it had 38 hrs on it so the rest of the boat was in perfect shape. All in I spent 2/3 the cost of an equivalent boat used - if you're going to put in the time you should be good money ahead
 

slowgsxr97

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For people that have done transoms before, if I do all the work myself how much would you estimate all the material would be for a project like this?
 

bbook83

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It looks as though the transom is made of a single thickness of wood that runs from one side of the hull to the other and a second thickness on the inside only in the center. The hole for the outdrive is cut through both thicknesses. The two pieces are fiberglassed together. I replaced a transom like this from the inside without much experience, but with some expert advice. However, I had no cracks or damage on the outside fiberglass, as is shown in your picture and video. I'm sure others will confirm that the outer is fixable, but certainly adds to the time and expense.
 

gsxrdan

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slow 97 gsxr... lol no such thing!

As far as the boat goes - rip into it! You have a little fiberglass experience, thats more than i had!!
 

slowgsxr97

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May 22, 2017
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Still trying to make sense of how this transom is built. It doesn't go all the way up, and doesn't seem to have wood all the way across, looks like alot of foam. Im pulling the motor tomorrow if it doesn't rain to get a better look. Theres a hole in one side of it, seems like all foam.









 

spoilsofwar

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The double layer of wood in the center is the true transom. The single layer behind it is used to tie the center section into the rest of the hull at the sides and bottom. Behind the single layer it is all foam in those "pods" on either side of the notched transom. There is no real attachment at the top, just the foam filled molded in swim platform.
 

demarko210

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Jan 2, 2015
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slowgsxr97

I have no fiberglass experience either but I am not paying someone $5k to cut some wood and paint, that something I can do. Some and my boat are going to town! Just wish I could sit my boat in a driveway instead of a parking garage it would have been completed.
 

Woodonglass

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The double layer of wood in the center is the true transom. The single layer behind it is used to tie the center section into the rest of the hull at the sides and bottom. Behind the single layer it is all foam in those "pods" on either side of the notched transom. There is no real attachment at the top, just the foam filled molded in swim platform.
This is Absolutely Spot ON!!!! You'll need to remove the motor and outdrive in order to gain access to the old transom and glass. IF the deck is good and the stringers ARE non wood stringers then you should be able to fabricate and install a NEW transom with glass for less than $1K.
 

JASinIL2006

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Feb 10, 2012
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One thing you'll want to check (as you get into the structure in the back) is to make sure the flotation foam is dry. My boat had non-wood stringers (thank heavens), but I still had to remove most of the deck because water had infiltrated the foam. Don't want to leave wet foam in your boat, or eventually it will cause problems, even if none exist now.

Also, my boat also had those bump-outs on the transom. Along the top of the wooden transom core, there was only tabbing at the very center portion (between the bump-outs). The top of the wood piece wasn't tabbed at all in the location of the bump-outs. The transom core was tabbed to the hull all along the sides and bottom, though.


Good luck!
 

slowgsxr97

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May 22, 2017
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Do I need to leave a little lip on the old fiberglass, or do I need to cut it flush with the sides and bottom?
 

slowgsxr97

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May 22, 2017
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Couple more quick questions, tommorow I plan on getting some glass out.

1. Does the floor have to come out because it butts right up to the Transom?

2. I'm not sure whether to leave a lip, or cut all the way to the edges?

3. Should I make a plywood template on the inside and outside before cutting it up?

Thanks in advance
 
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