Seadoomanls
Petty Officer 3rd Class
- Joined
- May 12, 2007
- Messages
- 83
I know this topic has been beat to death and after extensive research I decided I need my own thread because I need specific help.
This will be in reference to a 1994 Yamaha C115 Precision Blend that is absolutely turn key. I have had the boat now for 3 years and knock on wood not a SINGLE ISSUE (no jinx!!!) When I purchased the boat I got a killer deal and the only thing about the engine that was different from a factory setting is that the remote oil tank (the one in the boat) was disconnected and the oil injection came purely from the engine oil tank. The issue being it is getting rather annoying/embarrassing having to stop every 90 minutes or so of running time to fill the oil tank due to the obnoxious audible alarm letting me know my onboard tank is at half capacity ( and yes I know, god bless that alarm to save my engine)!
From what I could tell the reason the oil tank in the boat was disconnected is because the 4-pin harness (brown, blue, black, black/red) had the blue wire pulled from the harness thus leaving the assembly inoperable. I ordered two new 4-pin plugs and soldered, liquid electric taped and heat shrinked (marine grade) all the connections and am 100% confident the connections are excellent (based on my 12v experience in car audio and an ohm and volt test). I bench test the oil pump using a 12v battery and the pump transferred oil through it with no problem. I connected everything in the boat and no oil transfer occurred; Not even with the manual switch.
So out comes the multimeter.
First test was checking for continuity throughout the wires. All wires had great continuity from harness that connects to the oil control module (black box located next to engine oil tank with the manual transfer switch) to the ends which would plug into the 4-pin harness on the boats oil tank. I used an ohm meter on the black and black/red wire on the boats oil tank which confirmed the oil level gauge opened and closed as it should.
I then checked the wires coming from the boat in the 4-pin harness: brown wire (positive) and the blue wire (negative) and read roughly 10.5 volts. ---I checked the hot wire coming straight from the battery (engine off) and a ground on the block and received 12.9 volts--- Should I be reading a constant volt reading between brown and blue, regardless of the engine oil tank being full? Is 10.5v a significant voltage drop from 12.9v? Should 10.5v be enough to trigger the pump on?
Second test I removed the oil gauge level in the engine oil tank. Holding the gauge parallel the audible alarms as it should when the black float is in the middle position shutting off when up high or down low. This gauge has four wires coming from it: red, black, brown and white. All wires come out of the oil level gauge cap and plug into the oil control module. The red wire splits off onto a blue/red wire. What is the blue/red wire for? How can I ohm test the oil level gauge in the engine tank?
Third test I simply hooked up everything as it should (reading 10.5v between blue and brown going straight to pump AND I had a full engine tank of oil) and the pump did not come on. I disconnected and hooked a 12v battery straight to pump and it worked perfect. I then reconnected the pump and pressed the manual switch on the oil control module with no change and no pumping. I disconnected and put the voltmeter back into the end of the 4-pin harness and got 10.5v between blue and brown again. I pressed the manual oil switch with no change in voltage.
Thank you in advance for any information you can spare! I love this engine and want to get this remote oil tank up and going!
This will be in reference to a 1994 Yamaha C115 Precision Blend that is absolutely turn key. I have had the boat now for 3 years and knock on wood not a SINGLE ISSUE (no jinx!!!) When I purchased the boat I got a killer deal and the only thing about the engine that was different from a factory setting is that the remote oil tank (the one in the boat) was disconnected and the oil injection came purely from the engine oil tank. The issue being it is getting rather annoying/embarrassing having to stop every 90 minutes or so of running time to fill the oil tank due to the obnoxious audible alarm letting me know my onboard tank is at half capacity ( and yes I know, god bless that alarm to save my engine)!
From what I could tell the reason the oil tank in the boat was disconnected is because the 4-pin harness (brown, blue, black, black/red) had the blue wire pulled from the harness thus leaving the assembly inoperable. I ordered two new 4-pin plugs and soldered, liquid electric taped and heat shrinked (marine grade) all the connections and am 100% confident the connections are excellent (based on my 12v experience in car audio and an ohm and volt test). I bench test the oil pump using a 12v battery and the pump transferred oil through it with no problem. I connected everything in the boat and no oil transfer occurred; Not even with the manual switch.
So out comes the multimeter.
First test was checking for continuity throughout the wires. All wires had great continuity from harness that connects to the oil control module (black box located next to engine oil tank with the manual transfer switch) to the ends which would plug into the 4-pin harness on the boats oil tank. I used an ohm meter on the black and black/red wire on the boats oil tank which confirmed the oil level gauge opened and closed as it should.
I then checked the wires coming from the boat in the 4-pin harness: brown wire (positive) and the blue wire (negative) and read roughly 10.5 volts. ---I checked the hot wire coming straight from the battery (engine off) and a ground on the block and received 12.9 volts--- Should I be reading a constant volt reading between brown and blue, regardless of the engine oil tank being full? Is 10.5v a significant voltage drop from 12.9v? Should 10.5v be enough to trigger the pump on?
Second test I removed the oil gauge level in the engine oil tank. Holding the gauge parallel the audible alarms as it should when the black float is in the middle position shutting off when up high or down low. This gauge has four wires coming from it: red, black, brown and white. All wires come out of the oil level gauge cap and plug into the oil control module. The red wire splits off onto a blue/red wire. What is the blue/red wire for? How can I ohm test the oil level gauge in the engine tank?
Third test I simply hooked up everything as it should (reading 10.5v between blue and brown going straight to pump AND I had a full engine tank of oil) and the pump did not come on. I disconnected and hooked a 12v battery straight to pump and it worked perfect. I then reconnected the pump and pressed the manual switch on the oil control module with no change and no pumping. I disconnected and put the voltmeter back into the end of the 4-pin harness and got 10.5v between blue and brown again. I pressed the manual oil switch with no change in voltage.
Thank you in advance for any information you can spare! I love this engine and want to get this remote oil tank up and going!