1995 Crownline 210 CCR Deck Repair

Maddoxsdaddy

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 22, 2008
Messages
222
I've been reading alot of repair posts on here and i've found that i'm in a similar situation to many. What started as a loose captains chair mount has turned into rotten floor underneath. So, I started my projec this past weekend. I've got some of the carpet (uggh) pulled up, the seats out, the trim on the sides out and i've spotted the rot. Now the hard part begins so i had a few statements and questions...

1) I know to seal the bottom and tops of the new deck... Do i use cloth on the bottom in addition to resin?
2) Which resin is the easiest to work with?
3) What cloth should i use?
4) What is the process for taking core samples of the stringers and how do i fill those holes if the stringers do not need replacing?
5) Has anyone on here done this with a Crownline before? How did it turn out for you?
6) I don't want to put carpet back in the boat. How do i "hide" the floor seams and what can i use for anti-skid paint?

Thanks for anything in advance.
Happy de-winterizing!

Tim B.
 

Maddoxsdaddy

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 22, 2008
Messages
222
Re: 1995 Crownline 210 CCR Deck Repair

Ok... here are a couple of pictures so far...
 

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Tolyn

Seaman
Joined
Jun 28, 2010
Messages
57
Re: 1995 Crownline 210 CCR Deck Repair

Greetings fellow Crownliner! (Crownlinest? Crownlinian? oo I like that one..)

I am also just starting my process (link to my project is below) so I don't have any firsthand fixing information particular to your questions so take my answers with a bucket of salt.

#1 : No I dont think so. At least I have not seen/noticed any pics of folks doing that.

#2 : From what I have read here Poly based resin is much cheaper and apparently easier to work with and is probably what our boats were made with in the first place.

#3 : Still working on answers for that one myself. Rather confusing with so many choices and folks using all different kinds.

#4 : I took a drill bit, stuck some tape around the 3/4 to 1" mark and just drilled holes in various places. After getting all the plywood up I didn't need to drill holes in my stringers to see if they were rotten. That was sadly immediately obvious. Be sure to check your transom! That's where the tape comes in and keeps you from drilling a hole all the way through the back of your boat to the outside (drill from the inside). Get a tube of that 3M 4200 or whatever number it is from here on iboats and use that to fill the holes with.

#5 : Still in progress.. really sloooow progress. Spring is getting closer and it doesn't feel like I am getting done fast enough.

#6 : This link provided by EZ on my thread is kind of what I am using for inspiration : http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=300463 . He did a really good job by the looks of things and was very attentive to detail. The glass/fabric over the top + the paint seems to hide his seams.


Hang in there!

Respectfully,
-T
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: 1995 Crownline 210 CCR Deck Repair

1) I know to seal the bottom and tops of the new deck... Do i use cloth on the bottom in addition to resin?
If you use Epoxy NO you do not need to use Fiberglass mat. If you use Polyester Resin (recommended) then yes you MUST use mat. (1.5 oz recommended) Poly dries very brittle without the mat.
2) Which resin is the easiest to work with?
Probably Epoxy but that's debateable. Poly IS a lot less expensive, but DOES stink a lot more
3) What cloth should i use?
For the bottom 1.5 oz is sufficient.
For the top I would use a layer of 1.5 oz and then finish with a layer of 1708 biax. Make sure to get UN-Waxed Poly but buy some wax for your final layer.
4) What is the process for taking core samples of the stringers and how do i fill those holes if the stringers do not need replacing?
What Tolyn said
5) Has anyone on here done this with a Crownline before? How did it turn out for you?
NOT ME
6) I don't want to put carpet back in the boat. How do i "hide" the floor seams and what can i use for anti-skid paint?
Your Fiberglass mat and 1708 Biax cloth with hide all the seams.
Lots of guys on here like this stuff
http://www.durabakcompany.com/
 

Maddoxsdaddy

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 22, 2008
Messages
222
Re: 1995 Crownline 210 CCR Deck Repair

Thanks for your input gentlemen. At this point, i'm getting REALLY nervous about this whole deal... for financial reasons mainly. But at this point, i have yet to pull up the deck so no point worrying until i get there.
That link to the Celebrity rebuild was awesome. If mine turns out half that good, i'll be happy (though maybe not satisfied). We'll see what turns up this weekend.

TB.
 

Maddoxsdaddy

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 22, 2008
Messages
222
Re: 1995 Crownline 210 CCR Deck Repair

So i've been thinking ahead a little bit... My deck is in 3 pieces, port, center, and starboard. To me, it seems the center piece was originally left unattached from the sides because of the fuel tank underneath. I was thinking of doing the same thing once i get to replacing it.
After i get the port and starbord sides cut and fit, cut a 45 on the sides that would join up with the center piece. Get all pieces glassed (top and bottom), them put some sort of sealer in a wide bead between the 3 pieces. That way, if theres ever an fuel tank issue, i can still pull up the center section of deck w/out having to tear up the rest.

Opinions?
If this is a good idea, what paint would work in conjunction with the sealer or should i just leave the sealer alone and just paint the deck?

Just thinkin' out loud.

TB
 

Yacht Dr.

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Messages
5,581
Re: 1995 Crownline 210 CCR Deck Repair

Yup..put it back how you found it...just better :) .

As far as painting..depends on how your finishing the wood..

YD.
 

Maddoxsdaddy

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 22, 2008
Messages
222
Re: 1995 Crownline 210 CCR Deck Repair

I plan on glassing it and painting it with some sort of anti-akid paint, then adding snap in carpet in a couple of spots instead of permanent carpet. That way, the kiddies can have not so hot feet and i can take it out to let everything dry when were done for the day. Woodonglass had mentioned Durabek earlier so i think i might check that stuff out. I see everyone talking about different number resind and different thickness cloths... i need a little more information on that so i can plan financially. I plan on using poly resin for budget reasons, and most likely exterior grade plywood. I've done a little work with resin and cloth before but i'm a little confused by all of the different types. I "assume" the ounce rating is the thickness of the cloth?... and i know the difference between chopped strand and woven... but what is 1708 biax?
Tomorrow, i'm going to make a drawing of what i was describing earlier to give a better idea of what i am thinking with cutting and replacing deck pieces.

Thanks for the input ya'll!
 

Maddoxsdaddy

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 22, 2008
Messages
222
Re: 1995 Crownline 210 CCR Deck Repair

Ok... so i found the how to thread posted by Don S that others have added much useful information to. My fiberglass questions are being answered as i read.
 

LippCJ7

Vice Admiral
Joined
Sep 20, 2010
Messages
5,431
Re: 1995 Crownline 210 CCR Deck Repair

Good deal and good luck



The appropriate term is Crownie by the way, and welcome to the family!!
 

Maddoxsdaddy

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Sep 22, 2008
Messages
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Re: 1995 Crownline 210 CCR Deck Repair

Crownies Unite! Glad to see another on here... I'll bet your 248 rolls with that Big Block.
 

LippCJ7

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Sep 20, 2010
Messages
5,431
Re: 1995 Crownline 210 CCR Deck Repair

yeah it does but I am going to put a 502 in it when I can get the money, I would like to get 60mph out of it
 

Maddoxsdaddy

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Sep 22, 2008
Messages
222
Re: 1995 Crownline 210 CCR Deck Repair

If i had the money, i'd probably find a 396 and a bravo outdrive for mine as well... since i'm getting ready to tear her apart anyway, why not do it all at once... Right?
 

LippCJ7

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Sep 20, 2010
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Re: 1995 Crownline 210 CCR Deck Repair

Money money money, also its marine so its a 496, don't cheat yourself out of 100 cubic inches of pure fun!!
 

Maddoxsdaddy

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 22, 2008
Messages
222
Re: 1995 Crownline 210 CCR Deck Repair

Removed center section of deck today and most of the starboard side ad well. As far as i can see, most of the stringers on the starboard side will need replacing. Port side looks good and dry but i'll be pulling up the deck to check to be sure. I'll post pictures later.

And a 496 with today's gas prices... Nah, i think i'll pass even though i'd like the extra kick in the pants it would give... hah!
 

LippCJ7

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Re: 1995 Crownline 210 CCR Deck Repair

I understand, my opinion is my boat is my toy, just like my guns and my truck, I like to have fun with my toys, programmer,exhaust for the truck, eotechs and scopes for my guns, big motor for my boat. If I didn't play with my boat my friends would think that I was sick
 

Maddoxsdaddy

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 22, 2008
Messages
222
Re: 1995 Crownline 210 CCR Deck Repair

I hear ya Lipp... That's why i've lifter the Titan and done a few other mods to her. Now to get the boat fixed up so i can work on the "play" items for that as well...

UPDATE and Pictures...

So, i have most of the starboard deck and all of the center deck pulled out. My worst concerns are coming true unfortunately. I have rotten stringers under there. It appears thet my main center stringer adjacent to the fuel tank may be ok. I still have to drill some samples.

The stringers from the side of the boat towards center are shot. Those will definately need to be replaced. I pulled 3 chambers of floatation out and guess what... It was saturated. Those 3 chambers probably weighed 75 lbs once i pulled it all out. I filled up 2/30 gallon trash bags and a 50 gallon trash can full of the mess. The rear portion of the starbord deck looks good but i'm going to pull out some flotation and check everything beneath anyway to be on the safe side.

Do it once, do it right, don't do it again.

I'll keep this updated as i go along and keep posting pictures. I've decided to take off a couple days this week and make a 4 day weekend out of it so i can get some major work accomplished.
 

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Maddoxsdaddy

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Sep 22, 2008
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Re: 1995 Crownline 210 CCR Deck Repair

More pictures...

Any tips for whats next are appreciated.
 

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Tolyn

Seaman
Joined
Jun 28, 2010
Messages
57
Re: 1995 Crownline 210 CCR Deck Repair

Oof, that looks all too familiar. Be sure to check your motor mounts and transom Maddoxdaddy. Mark your drill bit with some tape so you don't poke a hole all the way through to the outside. They may look and sound solid but the only way you can tell is to take a core sample (and fill with that 3M 5200 if it looks ok). I didn't want to either but just grit your teeth and prepare for the worst. Better to know now and get it over with.

Respectfully,
-T
 

Maddoxsdaddy

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 22, 2008
Messages
222
Re: 1995 Crownline 210 CCR Deck Repair

Thanks T. I will be checking the mounts before i start putting new material back in, which leads me to my new questions. I've been doing alot of reading on here and...

1) Should i, after doing demolition of old stringers, leave around 1/4" of the channel that the old stringers came out of to use as a guide for the new stringers?

2) I'll be using poly resin for a majority of the rebuild (budget reasons). Once i have the stringers glassed and set in the hull, should i use mat and epoxy (for its bonding qualities) to attach stringers to the hull of can i still use the poly?

3) Bedding for the stringers??? What is that and what do i do? I assume something goes between the wood and the hull for "cushion"? Need some guidance with this please.

4) Does this sound correct...? cut and form pieces used for stringers and deck, then lay it all out. Coat with poly, then cloth, then wet the cloth making sure to get everything coated (including wood edges)... do this for top and bottom sides. Once everything is in place and deck is attached to stringers, switch to biax for final layer?

5) Foam floatation... with pour in foam holding water, can i use (should i use) pink 2" thick insulation foam for floatation instead? This is water resistant, correct?

6) Limber holes, done from front to rear to allow any water intrusion to drain to rear of boat or can i do it from outside towards center of hull? Does it really make a big difference?

I'm asking this all now because with any luck (and a great amound of help from God) I'll get everything torn out by this weekend and be able to start prep for new material by next weekend.

Keep the information coming...
Thanks to you all.

TB
 
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