1996 225 Johnson Ocean Pro... Help!!

Rodznreelz

Cadet
Joined
Oct 4, 2004
Messages
17
I have been experiencing problems the last few times I have ran my motor. One problem is the motor "bucks" at a forward idle, almost like it is trying to go in and out of gear, some have said it is some type of bushing? Another problem is the motor will not run over 4200 rpm's where as it would run around 5500 before. I was having problems with the fuel filter leaking so I took the filter off and the motor runs better but will not exceed 4200 rpm's, what could it be? The last problem is the motor grinds in and out of gear. Maybe this could be worn out cables or maybe the foot needs to be adjusted seeing how it was recently rebuilt? It was rebuilt then bolted back on, no adjusting performed. Last question is about the prop, how can I figure out the ideal prop for max speed on the boat. If some could help me on these problems I would truly appreciate it.<br /><br />Thanks<br />Ryan<br /><br />F.Y.I-The motor is on a 20 foot Palm Beach Center console. The motor is a counter rotating engine that came off of a 31' Scarab. The motor does not push the boat the way it should. The hull is only rated for 200hp. I think the boat should run around 50mph.
 

ob

Admiral
Joined
Aug 16, 2002
Messages
6,992
Re: 1996 225 Johnson Ocean Pro... Help!!

First thing I would do is to perform a spark test to insure that your getting fire to all cylinders.Next, a compression test to insure the condition of all cylinders.<br /><br />If the gears seem to grind when shifting,I'm guessing you are shifting slowly and not briskly into forward and reverse from neutral.If shifted slowly,all outboard gearcases grind and will eventually grind the lobes of the gears down to a point that they won't stay engaged under load.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: 1996 225 Johnson Ocean Pro... Help!!

(Engine Powerhead)<br />First, check the compression. It should be approx 100+ psi and even on all cylinders.<br /><br />Next, with the s/plugs removed, rig up a spark tester whereas you can set a 7/16" gap to check the spark. It should jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue flame on all cylinders. (The s/plugs must be removed in order to obtain the highest rpm available).<br /><br />(Lower Unit)<br />Your explanation of the "bucks" problem indicates that the engine is jumping out of and back into gear. Either the shift rod critical adjustment has been disturbed or was not measured properly when assembled, the unit was simply replaced rather than being rebuilt, or the shift cable is out of adjustment.<br /><br />If the lower unit work was performed by a mechanic other than yourself, I strongly suggest that you return the unit to him for reworking if it's under warranty.<br /><br />(Jumping Out Of Gear - Manual Type)<br />(J. Reeves)<br />This pertains to lower units on all OMC manual shift outboard engines, or any OMC engine with lower units defined as a Shift Assist or a Hydro Electric Shift unit which incorporates a "Shifter Clutch Dog".<br /> <br />Within the lower unit, splined to the prop shaft is what is most often referred to as a clutch dog, hereafter simply called dog. The dog has at least two lobes protruding from it on both ends, facing both forward and reverse gear. The forward and reverse gears also have lobes built into them near their center area. When the engine is running, in neutral, the gears are spinning constantly via the driveshaft being connected directly to the powerhead crankshaft, but the propeller does not turn due to the fact that the dog is centered between the two gears, and the dog lobes are not touching either of the gear lobes.<br /> <br />When the unit is put into either gear, shift linkages force the dog (and its lobes of course) to engage the lobes of the the gear. The lobes of the spinning gear grab the lobes of the dog, and since the dog is splined to the prop shaft, the propeller turns.<br /><br />The lobes of the dog and gears are percisely machined, most with right angled edges that could be installed in either direction, and some with angles slightly varied that must be installed in one direction only (one end only must face the propeller). Dogs that can be installed in one direction only, if reversed, even if the dog and both gears were new.... would jump out of gear almost immediately. Keep in mind that the lobes are percisely machined with sharp angles!<br /> <br />Due to improper adjustment or worn shift linkages, but usually due to improper slow shifting, those percisely machined sharp edges of the lobes become slightly rounded. Now, with those lobes rounded, as the rpms increase, the pressure of the gear lobes upon the dog lobes increases to a point whereas they are forced apart (jumping out of gear), and due (usually) to the shift cable keeping tension on the engines shift linkages..... the unit is forced back into gear giving one the sensation that the engine has hit something, and the cycle continues.<br /> <br />Some boaters have the mistaken belief that shifting slowly is taking it easy on all of the shifting components..... Wrong! Shifting slowly allows those percisely machined sharp edges of the dog and gears to click, clank, bang, slam against each other many times before they are finally forced into alignment with each other..... and this is what rounds those edges off! The proper way to shift is to snap the unit into gear as quickly as possible.
 

Rodznreelz

Cadet
Joined
Oct 4, 2004
Messages
17
Re: 1996 225 Johnson Ocean Pro... Help!!

Thank you for the input. After researching the "bucking" problem, I believe the problem is with the shift rod. Does anyone know the proper shift rod tolerance/measurement for my 1996 225 Johnson Ocean Pro?
 
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