1996 30HP ignition issues

[fisherrick]

Picked up a "96 J30ELEDE for a song. Original owner cut harness to wire in pre Deutch red plug controller. That's as far as he got. Moved out of state in 1999 and never returned. I bought it off of his EX. Been sitting for 15 years. Still had original plugs in it and not so much as a scratch on the skeg or prop. Has 148# comp on each cylinder (wet). Bench testing the ignition system. Had NO spark either plug. Tested charge coil (810 ohm) and sensor (37 ohm) Has power pack w/tan single wire, (assume for overtemp to go into SLOW?) Disconnected tan wire, no change. Changed out pp for one off an 86 30hp. Got fire on one plug. swapped leads @ the coils and spark followed leads. Checked all grounds and put old pp back on ;same thing, (spark on one and spark follows leads). Ordered a OMC service manual that is hung up in Chicago and isn't due for 2 weeks, (because of the weather backlog). Parts book shows sensor same from 1980-2005. charge coil from 1993-2005. Power Pack 1996-2005. QUESTION 1: Can I simply convert whole ignition to pre SLOW with parts off 1986 J30ELCDM w/ the 500 ohm charge coil just to fire it up? QUESTION 2: Once I get the right power pack, (w/tan lead), does the tan lead @ the engine connector 6 pin, (separate from the start/run connector 6 pin) go to the warning horn in the Pre Deutch OMC controller? This 6 pin has 4 tan, 1 grey(tach) and 1 ground on controller side and only 1 tan, 1 black, and 1 grey on engine side. QUESTION 3: Is it the SLOW that requires the 800 ohm charge coil or the rev limiter Power pack? Hate to be windy, but it's a SWAMBO thing. Why did you pay $200.00 for a motor that doesn't work?:lol: If she doesn't hear this thing make noise, I don't eat.:grumpy:

 

[jasper60103]

Re: 1996 30HP ignition issues

I wish I could help answer your questions, but the parts alone are worth more than $200.
Hopefully someone will chime in. Good luck.

edit: Did you do tests in steps 2 and 3 below? You could try swapping the sensors since they are the same. Not sure it will solve your spark problem, but it won't cost you anything but your time and labor. Also, you can visually inspect everything else while you have the fly wheel off too.

No Fire on One Cylinder
1.Swap the orange coil wire of the cylinder not firing with
the one that does on the pack and see if the fire moves
from one coil to the other one. If it does, the pack is like
ly bad. If the fire stays on the same cylinder, the ignition
coil is probably bad.
2. Swap the Blue trigger wire with the Green trigger wire
and retest. If the fire moves from one cylinder to the other,
replace the trigger. If it does not move, the pack is likely bad.
3. Swap the Brown stator wire with the Brown/Yellow stator
wire and retest. If the fire moves from one cylinder to the
other, replace the stator.