1996 Merc XR6 cooling issue

wakeb16

Cadet
Joined
Jul 12, 2005
Messages
16
I just replaced both of my thermostats and rebuilt the water pump top and bottom... while out testing everything today I had a good stream at idle all the way up through about 4000 rpm but when I went to wot I had no Visible stream coming out. I have ordered a new poppet valve kit but I'm not sure if this could be my problem or not. I have never changed or cleaned this poppet valve and honestly just learned that I had one. Any other ideas?
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,780
Been awhile since I was into it and this reply is based upon my son's 150 of the mid 90's era...guessing on age. On his engine the tell tale was plumbed off the outlet tubes of the tstats meaning that a stat had to be open to get any. On top rear of the engine block was a separate hose, not plumbed into the tell tale tube, that went down to the bottom of the block in the center where the popoff valve supposedly was located.

If you are plumbed off your stats and you are above 2500 rpm (manual posted number) and your bypass/popoff opens due to adequate water pressure you are bypassing your stats with colder water than the 143F opening temp that his pellets were stamped. If water is colder, stat is not/doesn't need to be open and flow would cease to the tell tale.

If I were standing at the rear of your engine I'd be checking the routing of the tubes. Gotta be plumbed to something that's open at WOT to get water out the port.
 

Dukedog

Captain
Joined
Oct 6, 2009
Messages
3,440
is it gettin' hot?... alarm?... water pressure gauge?... temp gauge?
 

wakeb16

Cadet
Joined
Jul 12, 2005
Messages
16
No the alarm has not sounded and I have good flow from the tell tale until I get over 4000 rpm. My water pressure gauge just recently stopped working so I need to play with that and see if the gauge went bad. Since I've owned this boat the motor never would be for the first minute or so until the stats opened up. Now after the new impeller and housing along with the new stars I've noticed it starts peeing the minute you start it up... what would cause the difference?
 

sam am I

Commander
Joined
Jun 26, 2013
Messages
2,169
Now after the new impeller and housing along with the new stars I've noticed it starts peeing the minute you start it up... what would cause the difference?

I recall waaay back in the day my 92 175 did the EXACT opposite thing and i never quite have ever put my finger on it. When I replaced what I believed was the factory installed impeller and housing......wham, it changed how it pee'd at startup. Where from before it pee'd strong from first startup, muffs and lake........

Everything was assembled properly ya ya ya, just somehow changed it ever so slightly now it takes a few minutes to pee (stats cracking open) and the stream seemed to weaken a bit too. Internal pressure is within spec, stats all good, not sure, maybe it was all a dream or something I ingested back then........

Since then I probably have changed impellers a couple of times along with housings and wear plates etc and it never has went back to what I recall as the "original" tell-tale functionality

I've always used merc OEM parts BTW. My guess is there was a slight design change.

My best guess is....Since the original impeller/housing had never been changed (No P.O.) there was only slight wear on the impeller BUT the housing base and cup looked like it had gotten a bit hot and the plastics melted/flowed a bit around the SS impeller cup and base plate. I figure the motor must had been fired up somewhere along the road before I got it "just for a sec" with no water and the "instant" pee I recalled was not proper pee...........Proper pee came after I replaced the parts a few years (94/95) later.

Long story longer..........That era of motor seems very "touchie" in the pee area, some pee different when on muffs verses in the lake, (mine does, always has, or used too, I forgot, it changed) some don't. If yours was worn slightly one way or another, it now could now be back to norm, check the stats, pressure and idle/running temps, if they're the same/in spec..........run it!!
 
Last edited:

wakeb16

Cadet
Joined
Jul 12, 2005
Messages
16
I started to attempt replacing the poppet valve and after seeing how much needs to come off to access it I think I may take it to the mechanic. That lower cowling looks like a bear to get off with the four large pins attached through the mounting bracket. Anyone experienced with removing these mid 90's xr6 lower ceilings?
 

Dukedog

Captain
Joined
Oct 6, 2009
Messages
3,440
its not over heatin'... water is movin'... i'd get tha pressure gauge workin' before i took it anywhere........... jmo.
 

wakeb16

Cadet
Joined
Jul 12, 2005
Messages
16
I removed the water pressure gauge yesterday and cut the line at the block and after hitting it with the air compressor I slung nasty water and algae growth all over the back wall of my garage. Lol the gauge is completely plugged and I've ordered a new gauge already. As far as the poppet valve replacement... I removed the wiring harness on the side of the block to try and gain access to the poppet valve but even then it will be too hard to reach without removing the lower cowling. How in the world do you remove that lower cowling? Motor serial #0G325726
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,105
Gee, my '93 V6 Merc has a bolt (maybe two) in the front and two bolts in the rear that hold the lower cowling together. You will probably need a 1/4" drive socket to remove the rear bolts. After that the halves of the lower cowling wiggle off the two large pins. Pretty simple actually.
 

wakeb16

Cadet
Joined
Jul 12, 2005
Messages
16
No Title

Where are the bolts you speak of? All I see are the four large pins... help if you can please
 

Attachments

  • photo258480.PNG
    photo258480.PNG
    117.1 KB · Views: 0
  • photo258481.PNG
    photo258481.PNG
    119 KB · Views: 0

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,105
The photo doesn't show the front bolts, but the rear bolts are identified as #7. The bolts run left to right to connect the two cowling halves together.

Gee take a look at the front lower cowling, in the center. The bolts there are quite visible. The rear ones are recessed into holes in the lower cowling
 
Top