Re: 1996 yamaha 200hp oil problem
An overflowing main tank sometimes results from someone twisting or incorrectly installing the rubber cap on the float assembly and screen element. The tubular screen has an offset nipple that fits into the bottom oil-outlet going to the metering pump, and can bind the float if moved out of place. The arrow marks on the cap and tank should be aligned. You could also have a faulty level switch in the main tank as well.
your precision blend system has several things going on at once.
the engine tank contains 3 switchs and a water trap.
the top switch,blue/white to black shuts off the automatic transfer,the middle switch,blue/green to black turns on the auto transfer, the bottom blue/red to black sets the audible for low oil and sets the engine into RPM reduction.
now on to the remote tank.
it contains a simple on off switch.
if the tank has enough oil for auto transfer the switch is closed(continuity) if not or the switch is bad auto transfer is inhibited but emergency still works.
at key on the brown wire at the remote tank is 12V+ the blue is the ground path and is completed by either the ECU based on switch positions(commands) from the engine tank or via the toggle switch for emergency transfer.
a clogged filter at the remote tank may allow oil to be consumed faster from the engine tank than the transfer pump can supply.
quick checks
at the remote connector check black(harness side) to engine block for continuity, check continuity black to black red (switch side) check 12V to block key on engine off.
engine tank, unplug the oil tank connector, check oil tank side with tank full blue/white to black,continuity, cut the tie strap and remove the water trap drain the oil into a clean container, when the level goes below the lower tank mark check the blue green to black, should have continuity.
another check, engine tank low, remote full,key on,the transfer pump will run 180 seconds. in that time frame check the blue pump wire to ground for continuity.
remember if the black and black/red wires have lost contact the ECU "sees" it as low remote level and auto transfer is inhibited.
NEVER remove the engine tank screen/switch assy without first DRAINING the engine tank and ALWAYS retrieve and replace the screen to tank seal.
failure to follow this can lead to catastrophic engine failure.
It may seem intimidating, but it's not. Good luck and post your results!
Here are some good post that explain the system and testing procedures.
http://www.bwbmag.com/output.cfm?id=942859
