1999 Evinrude E115FPLEEC - removing steering arm bolts to replace powerhead

Bannister 6905

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Jun 5, 2015
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The powerhead on my 1999 Evinrude E115FPLEEC is blown and I am in the process of removing it but have run into an issue. There are two 5/8" hex bolts that fasten the steering arm to the powerhead (?). These bolts seem to pass through a rubber mount(?) and then into the powerhead (?). I am unable to remove them using hand tools or using my impact wrench.
This is a fresh-water motor with no corrosion and everything on the powerhead is clean, except where the rod came through the block. These bolts are keeping me from removing the powerhead, so before I take my sawzall to them, I need to know if there's any specific trick to removing them.
Appreciate any advice will be appreciated!
 

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flyingscott

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Apr 8, 2014
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Those are motor mount bolts. I used a socket and an extension to get those out. Otherwise try a breaker bar an impact extension and an impact short socket.
 

Bannister 6905

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Jun 5, 2015
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Thanks for the suggestions.
I already tried that - neither bolt will budge - even a little bit. My impact wrench will easily remove the wheel lugs off my RV, so i know it has the juice.
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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I have a number of this style for rebuild / parts.------Could not believe the struggle to get those bolts out.-----They may have used some loctite or equivalent on those bolts.----Big breaker bar and time will do it.
 

Bannister 6905

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Anyone see a problem with using the sawzall? I will be replacing the powerhead - just need to get replacement bolts...
 

Bannister 6905

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Jun 5, 2015
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Thanks to you all for your advice.
After getting a longer breaker bar and no fear, I was able to remove both bolts...slathered with Loctite!
Now, on to the fun part - installing all the components on the new powerhead and reinstall!
Bannister
 

Bannister 6905

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Jun 5, 2015
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I just replaced the powerhead on my 1999 Evinrude FICHT 115 E115FPLEEC, due to a failure in the original block (piston skirt broke off). Prior to replacing the block, I had no alarms or warning lights.
Upon starting the engine with the reman powerhead, I immediately got a "no oil" warning light. I shut the motor down and referred to the shop manual for troubleshooting. I determined there was oil getting to the pump, past the pressure sensor but nothing past the manifold to the intake. Per the manual, I clamped off the return line ahead of the check valve, attached a can of premix fuel and ran the motor, watching for oil to come from the manifold (removed one of the oil lines) and a healthy stream of oil squirted out. Leaving the temporary tank with premix connected, I reconnected all the oil lines, removed the restriction on the return like and restarted the motor. The "no oil" light went off briefly, then flickered on and off for about 5 seconds and then came back on. The same thing happened on subsequent restarts.
I am leaning toward a bad pressure sensor, but am open to other suggestions and appreciate your input.:confused:
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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These motors DO NOT RUN on a 50:1 mixture !!----That is a mistake !----Stop doing that or you will damage the motor again.
 

Bannister 6905

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Jun 5, 2015
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Issue resolved - ran the codes and got a code that indicated an open circuit to oil injection pump. Traced the wiring, found the break, repaired and back in business.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 28, 2013
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38,411
The mixed fuel does NOT GO THROUGH the crankcase on these 2 strokes.------Running on mixed fuel would starve crankshaft ,rods and bearings of oil.----Hopefully no damage was done on your motor.
 
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