1999 Ocean Pro 150 Broken Vacuum Port

[AndyD]

Today I was cleaning my 1999 Ocean Pro 150 in preparation for sanding and painting. I removed the port and stbd side covers and was de-greasing the power-head with a parts cleaning brush and a tooth brush I was using the toothbrush when I knocked a small brass port connected to a piece of tubing that connected the upper and lower portions of the block There was a lot of aluminum pitting around the fitting. I don't think I should have been able to break it off with a toothbrush.

Anyway, my next question is what part is this (I guess a vacuum port but I can't find it on parts diagrams) and how hard is this to change. Also what is the best approach to take. I am assuming an easy-out? I really don't want to mess it up and I'm hoping to benefit from the experience of someone who has done this before. Any advice?

Pictures below

 

[AndyD]

No Title

Perhaps someone can help me by answering some questions.

The nipple that broke what purpose does it serve on the motor?

The rubber hose that goes to the nipple....What is the line called?

I'm stumped because I can't find any parts diagrams that refer to it so it makes it difficult to perform an effective search to resolve the issue of even find parts. Thanks to anyone with a clue who can steer me in the right direction.

 

[boobie]

Where does the other end of the hose go ??

 

[AndyD]

It goes into a port (nipple) on the top of the block just above the head.

 

[boobie]

Have you got a model # ??

 

[AndyD]

J150P XEES

 

[AndyD]

OK I think I made a little progress. Apparently the crankcase diagram for my motor did not show this part. My motor was the last year they made the carburetor models and mine must have been a transition model to the FICHT design. I found the hose and nipple listed in the crank case diagram for the 2000 model 150 HP FI engine. It is described as a "Discharge Cylinder Block Vent", and there is a part number for the "Discharge Cylinder Block Vent Nipple". I am going to see who has it in stock and order it.

So now back to my original question.....What is the best way to extract the stub of the old nipple that remains in the block. Does BRP have a procedure for changing these units out? Just like a doctor I don't want to cause harm or make things worse in my attempt to remove. For instance I know it's brass and soft and could be drilled but I worry about metal shavings. Any advice????

 

[crazy charlie]

I have the same motor and if i go by memory i think it goes to a water pressure gage.do you have one on the dash?? start the motor on muffs and see if water comes out

 

[AndyD]

No Title

I put the muffs on it and ran for a couple of minutes, and it seemed like I was getting exhaust gas out of the block. Nothing came out of the hose end. I traced the hose to the top of the block and it goes in right next to the regulator so you may be right about the water pressure port. I'm not quite sure why nothing came out of the hose unless I would have had to wait for the thermostats to open to get water pressure up to the regulator. I didn't run it for that long because I still wasn't sure what was broken. I suppose I could run it a little longer and let the thermostats pop and see what happens. But being close to the regulator which I believe is water cooled certainly leads me to believe you are correct. See picture for hose routing to top of motor.

Thanks, Andy

 

[AndyD]

Well I puled the hose at the top and the nipple was full of corrosion. I tried reaming it out with a wire and a small drill bit (between my fingers not chucked). I removed lots of white powdery corrosion. I think that this was a water line and that the nipple at the bottom that broke returned the water into the exhaust near to the power-head flange. My thoughts at this point are to use a vacuum cap and wire tye at the top, and plug the lower hole with with a dab of epoxy putty in the nipple hole at the bottom and call it a day. It was rather obvious that nothing had flowed through this hose in many years.Then I can get back to prepping for paint Plan is to sand spray with Epoxy Primer and then a coat of PPG Delfleet Essential Single Stage Urethane. Kind of a poor mans Imron.

 

[daselbee]

If it indeed is a water line, it is there for a very specific reason. That water line is at the highest point in the water jacket, and if any air bubble forms up there, it will be forced out that line, and allow the block to fill completely. This prevents the possibility of running the regulator dry due to a possible air bubble in the top of the jacket.
I would fix it.

EDIT: If you ever run it on muffs in the driveway, you stand a very good chance of forming an air bubble at the top of the block. Muffs introduce air into the cooling system.

 

[AndyD]

Excellent point! I really hadn't thought about it from that angle. I did manage to unplug the nipple at the top (finally after a couple hours of digging with wire). Guess I'll go to the Auto parts store and see what I can find in the way for a threaded hose barb close to that hose size. Not that I'm not good at drilling and tapping I just hate the idea of drilling into my block (for any reason).

 

[daselbee]

You will be fine. Consider that the broken nipple already has a pilot hole....just go up in drill sizes gradually. The drill will follow the existing hole.
Also, since the lower broken nipple is going into the exhaust, no need to worry about drill chips.

Your local Evinrude dealer will surely have the appropriate nipple.

 

[clanton]

The nipples are recirculation valves/nipples. you should check all of the valves and hoses, need manual for correct test and routing of hoses. You find part number at Evinrudeparts,com, You will need model number of engine. Very Important because the top one lubricates the upper main bearing.

 

[daselbee]

Tis appears to be a water line off the top of the block. Look at pics. The top of the line runs right into the block at the regulator. It goes nowhere near the upper main bearing. I am very sure it is not a recirc line.

OP....can you start it up with the hose attached to the top nipple, and loose at the bottom? Now that you have it unplugged, it should shoot water out of it.
That would be a good test.

 

[jakedaawg]

.....

 

[AndyD]

As noted earlier I found out that this line does indeed serve an important function. Namely it's function is to purge any air pockets from the upper water jacket specifically to ensure that the voltage regulator remains cooled. I guess that I was lucky that I never burned up my voltage regulator. Anyway, with a couple of hours work I was able to clear the upper nipple using a piece S/S wire and a small drill bit. I spent over 4 hours driving around trying to find a replacement nipple (the original was pressed in). I finally found an exact replacement at my local outboard salvage yard. The owner extracted one out of an old carburetor. I drilled out the old pressed in fitting slightly undersized and tapped out what was left with a small pin punch. I tapped in the replacement with a little bit of gasket sealer. I was able to continue cleaning up the corrosion at the bottom of the power-head with my Dremel Tool and then primed and touched up with gloss black engine paint. Now I can get back to painting my motor. I'll post up a write-up on the paint project after I'm done. I'm taking pics and video.

On a related note. This bleeder line is something everyone who has a similar engine may want to check periodically as their engines age. I was lucky that I did not smoke a voltage regulator. The guy who owns the salvage yard and outboard shop where I got my part said that he has replaced several ignition modules on motors that have the ignition modules located in about the same place as the voltage regulators on these motors. He said each time it could traced back to corrosion or debris in a small nipple or hose like the one I just replaced. You learn something new everyday.

Thank you to everyone who contributed to helping me solve this.