2.3l has 150psi across all cylinders, but small amount of water in oil.

Warkmeister

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I just recently got my first I/O, a 2.3 powered sportsman 1900 by Blue Fin/Spectrum. Is a 19ft aluminum. Replaced points with pertronix and getting it ready for the water, system by system. I replaced the impeller, previous one was torched, and attached the muffs at full blast. First start gave a good puff of dirty smoke/steam? and then is running clear. Water looks to be circulating appropriately and exiting exhaust around the Outdrive. Oil shows just a hint of water evidence. All cylinders check out at 150psi on compression test. Could a leaky riser gasket or small leak in the head gasket cause a very small amount of water in the oil? Next step is pressure testing the block for leaks, gotta build the contraption though.
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,...... I'd start by pullin' the riser to see what kinda shape it's in, 'n pressure testin' the block,.....
 

Scott Danforth

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most likely the exhaust manifold is shot (really common on the pinto motor based OMG offering)

hold on to your shorts when you find out what that NLA bit of hardware will cost you.
 

Big Gee

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most likely the exhaust manifold is shot (really common on the pinto motor based OMG offering)

hold on to your shorts when you find out what that NLA bit of hardware will cost you.
This^^

Sometimes a serviceable used one turns up, but otherwise they go for big money.
 

Warkmeister

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Thanks for the replies. Unfortunately I have seen what one costs….yikes. That being said, aside from blatant destruction, how serviceable can one be? Can they be milled or built up and resurfaced? Simply cleaned up with a new gasket surface as a bandaid til I find a good one?
 

Warkmeister

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Here’s the before and after from me trying to clean up the manifold and riser. If I’m looking at new parts, trying to polish these turds might not hurt right?

As a side note, I found pieces of old impeller in the water passages. Interesting, the history old motors could tell if they could talk.
 

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Keyboardman

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Actually compared to what I've seen and experienced out on the coast that manifold looks pretty good. You must be freshwater. But, you need to test it with Acetone and see if it has any leaks. Also, I spent a few months awhile back searching for a new 2.3 manifold. I finally found a Chinese aftermarket and paid $600 for it. That was the biggest expense I dumped into that 2.3L OMC/Ford Turd of an engine. Also, see if the exhaust flapper is still in place while you have the riser off. Most rot and fall down in the tube. Good luck with your project.
 
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Scott Danforth

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a half hour with a flat file may true up the surface.
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,..... I've seen worse, but ya gotta clean it to bare iron to really tell,......

As Scott says, either a flat file, or a big enough belt sander can make quick work of gettin' it clean, 'n Flat,.....
 

Scott06

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Apr 20, 2014
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Thanks for the replies. Unfortunately I have seen what one costs….yikes. That being said, aside from blatant destruction, how serviceable can one be? Can they be milled or built up and resurfaced? Simply cleaned up with a new gasket surface as a bandaid til I find a good one?
You can resurface the manifold to elbow selaing face either with a file or have a machine shop mill it or belt sander actually looks ok
 

Warkmeister

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I was so anxious to try my fix that I went out today. I ended up using a soft grinder flap disc and then a 120 grit sheet on my orbital sander on both surfaces. I tried to stay as flat as I could and still get to decent metal, albeit not as good as your guys file recommendation would. I bought a sheet of cometic 1200* gasket material, and cut my own gasket because I’m impatient and really wanted to try my hand at it. I used grey high temp RTV on both sides of the gasket to take up any slop. Bolted back up and hit the water a few hours later. Just got back and I can see no additional evidence of water in my oil. It’s certainly not worse than it was, and I was on the throttle on the lake. I’ll change my oil and filter now, and also add a Pertronix coil. The boat had a bit of trouble staying running at low rpm’s. I had installed a new CDI ESA too, but I need to verify it’s working as intended. All in all, I’m very happy it ran as good as it did. I’ll still be testing the block for cracks after vacation next week. Thanks for the help folks.
 
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