2.5L OMC 4cyl... having issues

[If_the_boat_floats]

So what I have done. I have replaced the plugs. I have replaced the wires and the coil. Cap and rotar are in great condition. I have replaced both fuel filters I have taken the weights out of the distributor and cleaned them they move freely now. I have rebuilt the carb. I have timed the engine as specified on the valve cover at 4? before tdc. It runs great in my driveway in gear or out. I put it in the water I can not get more than 2000rpm out of it and it will hit 2000rpm then bog. I can only get 2000rpm if I am at 3/4 throttle. Full throttle it bogs out and drops to like 1400rpm. I did notice it has a black carb off of a mercruiser. Now all that being said it ran really good once randomly.. never ran like that since. I have also seen it spray fuel under throttle and I looks like it's getting plenty but that's just looking at it. I need help I am stumped

 

[Scott Danforth]

what year?
what drive?
points or electronic ignition?
when you had the carb apart, did you run a fine wire or fishing line thru every passage?
did you test your compression?
did you test your fuel pump output?
did you check your anti-siphon valve?

 

[If_the_boat_floats]

what year?
what drive?
points or electronic ignition?
when you had the carb apart, did you run a fine wire or fishing line thru every passage?
did you test your compression?
did you test your fuel pump output?
did you check your anti-siphon valve?

I don't know what year. It says on the registration the boat is a 1985 bluewater. But it looks like a 78-79 beach craft... I don't what an anti syphon valve is. It is a points ignition. I did thoroughly clean the carb yes. Accelorator pump does squirt as well. Have not tested the fuel pump but I do know the carb is getting fuel. It is the omc stringer out drive.

 

[Scott Danforth]

ok, so if you have points, your most likely a 1985 or older. most likely have a stringer drive. if it is 1985, you do have the mechanical shift 400

did you file the points, initially set to .018" gap and then verify the dwell is at 30 degrees prior to adjusting timing?

the anti siphon valve is the check valve fitting at the fuel tank that prevents the fuel from siphoning back from the carburetor. sometimes the crud and gunk in the tank will foul it up.

 

[If_the_boat_floats]

ok, so if you have points, your most likely a 1985 or older. most likely have a stringer drive. if it is 1985, you do have the mechanical shift 400

did you file the points, initially set to .018" gap and then verify the dwell is at 30 degrees prior to adjusting timing?

the anti siphon valve is the check valve fitting at the fuel tank that prevents the fuel from siphoning back from the carburetor. sometimes the crud and gunk in the tank will foul it up.

Ok so I haven't checked the dwell or the gap on the points. I don't know how to check it honestly. I do know how to gap the points though.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I would start with a google search for ignition points 101. plenty of vids, how-too's, etc.

 

[If_the_boat_floats]

I would start with a google search for ignition points 101. plenty of vids, how-too's, etc.

I went ahead and did that easy peasy. So what if my boat doesn't have an anti-siphon valve?

 

[Scott Danforth]

then I would start looking at the rest of the fuel systems. there are DIY stickies at the top of all the forums. look there for low WOT.

your boat would have came with an anti-siphon valve from the factory. its a standard safety device in the fuel system, been around since the 40's

 

[If_the_boat_floats]

then I would start looking at the rest of the fuel systems. there are DIY stickies at the top of all the forums. look there for low WOT.

your boat would have came with an anti-siphon valve from the factory. its a standard safety device in the fuel system, been around since the 40's

Ok cool I just remember taking an elbow off on the outlet to see if it had a screen at the end of the tube didn't remember if it had that in the elbow or not. But these are all things I will be checking this week

 

[kenny nunez]

Save your some future problems and order a Petronics conversion for the distributor. They are easy to install . See if you can remove the suction tube from the tank and run a wire inside to check for a small filter that may be inside the tube.

 

[If_the_boat_floats]

then I would start looking at the rest of the fuel systems. there are DIY stickies at the top of all the forums. look there for low WOT.

your boat would have came with an anti-siphon valve from the factory. its a standard safety device in the fuel system, been around since the 40's

Hey so I compression tested it 120 on all 4 cylinders. We did find the points were .006 too tight... after I got that adjusted to .019 as it states on the valve cover I checked timing it was good as well 4? btdc again as stated on the valve cover my dad adjusted the carb for me because he knows them better. We were to lean. It runs smoother than ever right now, no hesitations or pops or and miss fire sounds just smooth... so! Hopefully tomorrow she will run great on the water as well.