2 hp evinrude

[sharkman]

Hello again. Following up on several previous posts on this little Evinrude (2602s). After rebuilding the carb, replacing the points, it will not run unless the choke is half closed..then it runs fine but not for long.

Any suggestions?

Also what type of gasket remover is safe on outboards? I presume not the same as on automotive or lawnmower engines.?

Thanks again

 

[fireman57]

Re: 2 hp evinrude

If you didn't soak the carb in a good carb cleaner for several hours and blow it out with air you might still have some junk in it. You say that it will not run unless the choke is half closed. I am assuming that you are starting it with the choke open and then pushing it in when it starts. At that point you have to leave the choke half open to keep it running. When you close the choke all the way does it die quickly or slowly. Can you give it a little throttle to keep it going or not? When you say not for long is it a minute, five seconds, or longer? As far as gasket remover I use my pocketknife or a razor blade to clean the old off.

 

[sharkman]

Re: 2 hp evinrude

Fireman thanks for your reply. It was started with the choke all the way open, then ran fine with the choke half closed but when the choke was closed completely it died after only a few seconds. Giving it throttle killed it quicker. Interesting because the day before, it was running about the same...good at half choke, not at all with choke closed etc etc, but after playing with it, it eventually ran fine with the choke all the way closed, and did so for a half hour.

 

[fireman57]

Re: 2 hp evinrude

You have a fuel restriction somewhere. Could be a stuck float or an air leak in a fuel line. Not familiar with the 2's. Smallest I ever worked on was a 9.9.

 

[mcallan]

Re: 2 hp evinrude

omc/bombardier makes a pretty decent carb cleaner. You are not supposed to put evinrude/ johnson carbs in a real acidic cleaner beacuse they can become porous. Did you clean all the passages out, and does the high speed have a adjustable needle or orfice?? With the small 2 and 3 hp motors around our place we put a head gasket in each one every year, just because we can and the oem gaskets are awful.

 

[Xcusme]

Re: 2 hp evinrude

Fireman thanks for your reply. It was started with the choke all the way open, then ran fine with the choke half closed but when the choke was closed completely it died after only a few seconds. Giving it throttle killed it quicker. Interesting because the day before, it was running about the same...good at half choke, not at all with choke closed etc etc, but after playing with it, it eventually ran fine with the choke all the way closed, and did so for a half hour.

I must admit, I'm a bit confused here. To me, pulling the choke knob out, closes the choke. The choke plate covers the carb throat. This causes extra fuel to be drawn into the motor, enriching the mix. As the motor starts to warm, you push IN on the knob, this opens the choke, allowing more air to enter the carb, leaning out the mixture. At some point, when the motor is warmed, the choke knob is pushed all the way in, this is the normal running position of the choke.

If you're starting the motor with no choke, that's fine,if it starts, but closing the choke to full choke is killing the motor after it starts.
From what you wrote, it sounds like you're adjusting the choke backwards, closing it , when you should be opening it. A typical complaint is the motor will not continue to run unless some amount of choke is applied. This can point to fuel delivery problems, dirty carb, float level off etc.
Did I misunderstand your explaination??

 

[sharkman]

Re: 2 hp evinrude

I am a bit confused as well X, but what you said is what I was trying to say.....the choke is pulled all the way out when starting (closed), half way open when warming up, then all the way open when running (knob pushed all the way in)...

but as mentioned it may run a bit at half choke but not for long, if at all when it is fully open

 

[F_R]

Re: 2 hp evinrude

Do you have adequate fuel flow from the gas tank if you disconnect the hose from the carburetor? Could be a clogged filter or vent. Is there no result when you turn the high speed knob a bit toward richer?
So, you had the carburetor apart. Did you put in a new gasket that goes around the brass nozzle that sticks down into the float bowl? And did you put in a new float bowl gasket too? Is the little wire clip on the inlet needle? It keeps the needle from sticking in the seat. It is hard to imagine that carb being so plugged up as to not run without being very obvious.

 

[Xcusme]

Re: 2 hp evinrude

Ok, whew, I thought it was me.....anyway

As the other peeps mentioned, you probably still have a blockage in the carb.

Have a look at your carb here:
http://www.ishopmarine.com/ishop/js...eq4Browse=1&lvlCode=5&pCode=C0146139&path=BMC


If you have not kitted the carb, it might be a good idea. Pay attention to part #21, if this gasket leaks, you'll never get it to idle right. In the kit, remove and replace #6 core plug after cleaning cavity underneith. Replace packing for both High and Low speed needles. Invert carb and adjust float to be level the carb body. Remove the fuel line from the carb and put into a can. Open fuel tank vent and open fuel shutoff knob. Fuel should flow freely into the can. Replace fuel line to carb.
Soak/spray carb in carb cleaner , in all orifices , followed with compressed air. Replace carb to intake manifold gasket.
Follow J. Reeves carb adjustments as needed:

(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle va /lve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, wating for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway

 

[sharkman]

Re: 2 hp evinrude

10-4 thanks again guys and thanks X for the drawing. Huge help. I always get my choke open/closed terminology mixed up but I think now I have that part of the program figured out . Can't say thanks enough to all who respond to my seemingly endless inquiries.....

 

[Scaaty]

Re: 2 hp evinrude

Just went through 2 2hp "Mate's". One had a gummed up petcock screen, but it didn't look too bad. BUT the REAL problem was in the orifice way down inside the valve. All gummed up. Pull the (unscrew) the tank petcock and look it over. I also cut out the screens, and put an inline filter in. A simple test is just pull the gas line off, and open the petcock. You should get a study flow. If you take the petcock off, put pipe sealer with Teflon on the threads
Also make sure (mentioned above) that you have a new gasket over the main jet that seals the gas off in the float bowl, but it seems you are starving for gas, not getting too much