2 questions: wood and bilge paint.

[wca_tim]

I've done searches and read on both of these, but thought I'd put it out there to see if there's any other thoughts...

paint: I'm just making sure I have everything ready to swap engines out and to completely redo the engine compartment while I'm at it. What have you guys had the best luck with on Bilge paint? I'm leaning pretty heavily toward Bond-o's old friend rustoleum (thinned a little and sprayed from an automotive gun) rather than a catalyzed paint. I've probably spent more than I should already using dupont automotive urethane on the engine, candy red metallic on the block, intake and so forth, black on the stuff like water pump, fuel pump, etc... and even POR15 Glisten on the polished brass, steel and chrome fittings and lines, etc... Any others that people have used with good effect. One of the things I really like about strait rustoleum is that it won't be difficult to touch up any screw ups using an airbrush later...

Wood: I need to replace the blocks that support the engine mounts and glass them in (moving engine mounts), what's the best wood to use for the job? Most worried about rot in the long term. Based on searches, and since I don't need a ton of it, I'm thinking mahogany at this point... any other thoughts here?

Thanks!

 

[WizeOne]

Re: 2 questions: wood and bilge paint.

Mahogany would be great. It is also very rot resistant. I would, however, soak you new cut pieces in thinned resin before mounting and glassing them. I would also run your lag bolts in to thread the holes, then fill the holes part way with thinned, catalysed resin, soap up your lag bolt threads and run them back down just short of seating them. Wipe up the resin that was pushed out then let the resin cure.

When it comes to anchoring your motor mounts, squeeze some 3M 4200 into the holes before running the lags in. Budda Bing, totally water proof holes.

As for painting the bilge, I sprayed Interlux Brightsides. One part, tough, durable and great looking.

 

[oops!]

Re: 2 questions: wood and bilge paint.

I've done searches and read on both of these, but thought I'd put it out there to see if there's any other thoughts...

paint: I'm just making sure I have everything ready to swap engines out and to completely redo the engine compartment while I'm at it. What have you guys had the best luck with on Bilge paint? I'm leaning pretty heavily toward Bond-o's old friend rustoleum (thinned a little and sprayed from an automotive gun) rather than a catalyzed paint. I've probably spent more than I should already using dupont automotive urethane on the engine, candy red metallic on the block, intake and so forth, black on the stuff like water pump, fuel pump, etc... and even POR15 Glisten on the polished brass, steel and chrome fittings and lines, etc... Any others that people have used with good effect. One of the things I really like about strait rustoleum is that it won't be difficult to touch up any screw ups using an airbrush later...

Wood: I need to replace the blocks that support the engine mounts and glass them in (moving engine mounts), what's the best wood to use for the job? Most worried about rot in the long term. Based on searches, and since I don't need a ton of it, I'm thinking mahogany at this point... any other thoughts here?

Thanks!

im considering glue lambd beams......and putting them in as described above

tim are you sure it is just the motor mount blocks causing the movement?
and not a weak stringer system?....thats a whole lotta ponies you got goin in there

cheers
oops

 

[wca_tim]

Re: 2 questions: wood and bilge paint.

im considering glue lambd beams......and putting them in as described above

tim are you sure it is just the motor mount blocks causing the movement?
and not a weak stringer system?....thats a whole lotta ponies you got goin in there

cheers
oops

hmmm... sorry if I miscommunicated... I'm moving the engine mounts forward to accomodate going from a 4.3 to a small block. It's a balsa cored hull with what appears to be a very solid set-up. I've had it in the air a few times and have skipped across some pretty heavy waves with no sign of any real flexing anywhere. Between the solid boxes filled with foam, thick transom and stringers in the front of the engine compartment it appears to be very solid. The transom is also very thick and there are clearly nice thick layers of roven / glass on all the joints and everything in the engine compartment from what i can see. One of the reasons I bought this boat is because i had a feeling i would want to put more engine in it and it seemed sturdy enough to take it.

I mean, like what's a couple hundred horsepower difference, just between friends, anyway?


OK, so now i'm startin to get worried... will take a close look once i get everything set up and pull it apart.

ps. you asked a while ago about progress... see below... engine has come a bit further since pictures were taken... I've been busy with work and am just doing little bits at a time. since the pic below, have more bolted together and on, (new gloss black on most black components such as water pump fuel pump, etc...), etc... and the valve covers were just a set I had on hand... will be surprised if there's enough clearance with whatever manifolds I finally decide to go with... block, heads and intake are bright candy red first coat, deep candy red metallic second coat, single stage dupont urethane over zinc chromate primer... high volume oil pan is painted same red at very top lip and bolts, and ruberized undercoating on the rest. most of the black engine parts coming together now have shiny black single stage dupont urethane on them as well. just finished putting por15 clear on some of the polished brass and stainless stuff that I buffed out... like the brass and stainless parts of the oil filter and cooler lines, we'll see how it holds up...