2000 Ficht Fuel Injector test - E225FPXSSC

[tampa boater]

Is there a way to 'bench test' a Ficht Fuel Injector - year 2000 - 225 HP?

Reason I ask: Engine was sitting for a year. I don't have the diagnostic software and seems engine is not firing on all 6. Timing light verifies ignition on all 6 spark plugs. Have not tested the injector wires yet with timing light.

I pulled all 6 injectors out of the head and 5 of 6 free flow fuel when key turned to on position (because fuel pump runs for 10 seconds) Is it normal to free flow? If so does that suggest that the one injector that does not is bad? The hoses to that injector are clear - plenty of fuel when I pull off the hose and run the pump.

I figure I've either got 1 bad injector or 5. Seems weird to me that they would free flow - I would expect the opposite - I would expect them to open only with voltage. They do this even without the wire connected.

Also my service manual pics show injectors where the flange bolts right up to the head whereas my injectors fit in and there is a separate bracket that holds them to the head. Not sure if that tells us they're outdated or not..

One of the starboard injectors has a sticker with a Barcode and 5000946 along with what looks to be a ser number of 99221000322120.

Any Ideas? Thanks!

 

[seahorse5]

Re: 2000 Ficht Fuel Injector test - E225FPXSSC

Each injector has a unique serial number code that has to be programmed into the engine computer (EMM) and they cannot be used in different cylinders or different engines. The serial number contains the flow characteristics of each individual injector.

The injectors should not flow thru the tips so I'm not sure what you mean that 5 of 6 flow. Your injectors require 40 volts to "fire" so with just the key ON, nothing will happen. The fuel pump should fire up for about 10 seconds to pressurize the fuel rail to about 30 psi, and it should hold pressure (about 25 psi) when the key is turned OFF.

It sounds like you do not understand what you are doing and would be better off enlisting the services of a trained FICHT mechanic. You also need the diagnostic software to check the system over.

You can contact the folks at www.dfitechnologies.com who test and rebuild injectors, EMMs, and other FICHT parts for testing info.

 

[tampa boater]

Re: 2000 Ficht Fuel Injector test - E225FPXSSC

Each injector has a unique serial number code that has to be programmed into the engine computer (EMM) and they cannot be used in different cylinders or different engines. The serial number contains the flow characteristics of each individual injector.

The injectors should not flow thru the tips so I'm not sure what you mean that 5 of 6 flow. Your injectors require 40 volts to "fire" so with just the key ON, nothing will happen. The fuel pump should fire up for about 10 seconds to pressurize the fuel rail to about 30 psi, and it should hold pressure (about 25 psi) when the key is turned OFF.

It sounds like you do not understand what you are doing and would be better off enlisting the services of a trained FICHT mechanic. You also need the diagnostic software to check the system over.

You can contact the folks at www.dfitechnologies.com who test and rebuild injectors, EMMs, and other FICHT parts for testing info.

Thanks Seahorse - I appreciate your help. Bottom line is 5 of the 6 let a lot of fuel through the tips when pressurized. Can I assume this is not normal? I think they are stuck open - maybe from sitting so long with stale fuel in them...

 

[seahorse5]

Re: 2000 Ficht Fuel Injector test - E225FPXSSC

Bottom line is 5 of the 6 let a lot of fuel through the tips when pressurized. Can I assume this is not normal? I think they are stuck open - maybe from sitting so long with stale fuel in them...

The silver tapered tip on each injector is only "snapped" into place and fuel can leak around the circumference when the injector is removed from the engine. When installed correctly, the clamping force of the bolts and the design of the cylinderhead seal the unit.

In the center of the silver tip, you will see about a 1/8" circle which is the pintle that opens outward to allow the fuel into the cylinder when energized by the 40 volt slgnal from the EMM. The pintle should be absolutely flush and smooth with the surrounding metal and should not allow any fuel thru it. If not, then it is stuck open and needs repair.

Contact DFI Technologies for getting them serviced.

 

[tampa boater]

Re: 2000 Ficht Fuel Injector test - E225FPXSSC

Gotcha. Thanks Seahorse!

I realize my 'test' was not valid. Still curious why the '6th one' (actually the injector on the # 1 cylinder) does not allow any fuel around the circumference of the 'tip' when removed from the head - but I'll let that go, because, to your point, I don't understand what's going on there.

Just to give a little background - reason I was doing this in the first place:

I bought the motor used a year ago and finally getting around to installing and testing

has good compression: 135 +- 5 psi on all 6

Following the service manual, I have done several prelim checks prior to attempting to start for the first time. When I did so I found the fuel circulation pump was bad (did not produce pressure or make noise despite proper voltage for 10 seconds when turned to ON). I replaced the pump with a used one (suspect old fuel was culprit) and left the return line disconnected to flush old fuel. Engine took a long time to fire. I checked plug wires with timing light while cranking and all 6 fire. I checked a few of the injector wires that I could get to and all flashed similar to ignition timing. So I think OK at least as far as prelim cheks. My guess was (again, not knowing how the injectors work) that since I have good compression, good spark on properly indexed plugs and voltage to the injectors, that maybe the injectors were gummed up with old fuel also. That's why I removed them - just to look at them. And I happened to turn the key on while they were connected and observed the above.

I finally got it to start but runs rough and will not idle.

I will check service codes again. The first time was 11 - pass.

If that provides no clues I will take to the dealer. I also have the diag software on the way - thought the cyl drop test would be a good idea before running on the boat.

It seems without the software I am limited - for example, if in fact I do have 1 bad injector seems I can't isolate that without the software.. Is that correct?

Any other ideas? Thanks for all the help!!