2000 johnson 150 ocean pro VRO2 OMS?

[gwg]

I recently bought a boat with a 2000 Johnson 150 ocean pro. I ran it briefly on ear muffs. It runs good, no problems, no alarms. Because the motor is 15 years old, and I don't know what was done on it for previous maintenance, Im wondering if I should disconnect the VRO2 and premix my fuel, or purchase a new pump, so I have a running record of the age of the pump. Does this OMS just ratio the mix either 60:1 idle to 50:1 WOT? What is the advantage of running the OMS compared to just mixing 50:1. I wont be doing a lot of trolling with this motor, I use a kicker for that. If your motoring along at 4000rpms, and the no oil alarm starts chirping, how long do you have till the floats empty their mixed fuel for straight gas, and seriously damage the engine.

Feedback would be appreciated!

 

[batman99]

Lots of previous posts about VRO removal. Some posts emphasize theme of, "if it ain't broke, then don't change it". Others focus on theme of, "change it before it does break, and it creates too late damage". For my 1995 Johnson 115, I left factory VRO pump in place, disconnected its wires, plugged its input oil line, removed its external oil tank and do pre-mix at 50:1. Works great afterwards. And, I know if it's getting gas, then its getting proper amount of oil as well. And, I don't loose sleep at night from worrying about the risk of factory oil injection VRO failure. Especially on my older age engine. This works for me. And for others, they don't want to hassle of mixing oil (in their gas). Thus, they leave their VRO / VRO2 system as factory. This works for them. As suggestion, ask your local boat mechanic. Especially if you pick them for future engine maintenance / tune-up work.

Hope this helps.

 

[batman99]

Forgot to mention....

Since your new (new to you) "2000 Johnson 150 ocean pro" engine has unknown maintenance history and you're learning its 1st time usage behavior / sounds, suggest bringing your boat combo to your local boat mechanic and ask them to perform a tune-up. They will perform piston PSI checks, Link/Synch (which is optimal timing) checks and set it carbs (low idle and fast rpm mixture settings) as well. And if needed, they will check for any gas flow air leaks, change its gas filters and if needed, install oil/water separator system as well. If any of these areas are off and you drive the engine hard, you can blow its engine. They will also check its F/R gear linkages and its steering cable slop as well. Thus, always best to "tune up" the engine for 1st ownership usage and every other year (or so) as well.

Hope his helps as well..

 

[flyingscott]

I like the vro/oms system the advantages are it will run leaner at an idle closer to 100/1 wide open throttle 50/1. The convenience of not mixing gas and oil especially on a built in tank. The dealer can test the pump for proper operation. As far as how long you can go on the float bowls you need to shut it down when you here the beeps any farther is on you. As far as the advantages it is a really simple system most 150s with a seperate tank have lift pumps and the electrical that goes with it the vro uses one pump. Another advantage is if it develops an air leak instead of going lean it pumps more oil in. The vro got a bad rap and the first two years were not great but they were used for almost 20 yrs after that. I posted the question why is vro bad I did not get a lot of answers because most of the things you here were never caused by the vro. It cannot burn down one piston at a time it doeasn't work that way. The new pump is expensive but i think its worth it there have been more motors burned down by water pumps and not mixing gas and oil than vro. I use omc 2+4 fuel treatment in mine and I have never lost a moments worth of sleep over it ever. It amazes me when someone with a 10 yr old replaced vro pump comes in worried about it but his 20 year old motor still has the original water pump in it.

 

[Chris1956]

Gwg, The oil injection on your motor should be the 4 wire OMS system. It will mix oil into the gasoline at a constant ratio, about 60::1. It is a very good system. You always get a fresh fuel mix, and the motor naturally runs more consistently. My '98 Johnny 150HPV6 will idle all day long and not load up or stall.

You might test the low oil and no oil alarms and if it checks out, run the system. I would recommend that you carry enough TCW-III 2 cycle oil in the boat, such that if the OMS system fails (no oil alarm sounds), you can premix your fuel on the spot, to allow you to get home.

 

[gwg]

Thank you for all the good information and thoughts. As far as doing maintenance on these systems, or replacing the pump, what ever I decide to do, I will do it myself. Testing this system looks very easy, as well as replacing the pump and bleeding, etc. I will be replacing the water pump and thermostats, and testing HI temp switches + alarming right of the bat. If I have the 4 wire OMS system, which I believe I do. Will it have the 8pin harness connector already for a systems check gauge. Isnt it possible to have the appropriate audible alarming,(no oil, low oil, hi temp, fuel restriction), but no gauge. I don't believe I have the gauge with the 4 leds. Im thinking of installing a analog temperature gauge to the block, and or a water pressure gauge? I don't believe the newer OMS system mixes at 100:1 at idle, I was under the impression my system is about 60:1 at idle to about 40:1 at WOT. If this is true, whats the OMS advantage over just premixing 50:1, especially when Im not doing a lot of idling? If you bring an auxillary tank mixed with 50:1, where would be the ideal spot to hook it up to the engine, before the separator? after? If the motor starts alarming" no oil",because its actually getting no oil, does the oil mixed fuel in the float bowls, give you the extra 2 secs. required@ 4000 rpms, to shut the engine before serious damage occurs and get you home on the kicker?

 

[Chris1956]

A system check gauge (w/ tachometer) is far superior to a buzzer, IMO. A water pressure gauge is far superior to a temp gauge, IMO.

It makes no sense to bring a tank of pre-mix for that motor, as the OMS system is very reliable. You will carry that extra tank for years, IMO.

I am not sure where you heard that the "no Oil" alarm provides only 2 seconds of protection. That makes no sense. I would expect the OMS pump to fail gracefully, not just stop working. When you start to see the No Oil alarm, that is the time to pre-mix your fuel supply, IMO.

I have never heard that the OMS pump creates a variable fuel mix. I had heard it was about 60::1, and through some measuring, verified that fact. Of course that was over a trip that included cruising and idling.

 

[flyingscott]

The oms works the same way as the vro and chris1956 backs up that it does not inject at just 60:1. I will explain why since he was cruising and idling his number is an average of his day not a hard number. Another reason is whether premix or injecting at 50:1 you foul out plugs they do not last as long. Third and biggest of all is the EPA harder to pass emissions at 50:1 no matter what oil you use. Now my personal experience 1986 evinrude 70 hp bought it with the vro bypassed mixed 50:1 burned up plugs once a year. Got sick of the mixing put a brand new OMS pump on smokes less at an idle plugs have been in 2 yrs and counting. My 2 cents

 

[gwg]

I think I might install a brand new VRO2 pump anyway for my own piece of mind, and keep the current one as a spare, and completely check out my whole fuel delivery and oil delivery system, (tanks, strainers, seperators, primers, clamps etc.etc.). It sounds like its a good reliable system, if its properly maintained and checked out annually with inspection and alarm testing. I don't think spending couple hundred dollars on a new pump every 4-5 years is bad when your filling a 100 gallon tank with fuel at fuel prices today.

Thank you for the great info
much appreciated