I have come across an early 2000 Sylvan hull that I am interested in buying. It needs the transom replaced and I have read a lot of the Lund replacements which are similar to give me an idea of the cost and time involved. I have not found 1 where the outer skin was replaced, only patched with filler or holes welded.
The boats outer transom skin looks rough and already has 2 large patches. Obviously wouldn't know what is what until they are removed.
It looks like a tough/tight area to be doing any riveting if replacing the outer skin, so what about an overlay/large patch to the existing edges? Would this work and look ok or just look like crap? Though the removal/install of the new transom requires pulling the gunnel caps a fair way up the boat, if the outer transom skin was removed via drilling out the rivets I'm guessing this step would not be needed?
Having a whole new outer skin installed would be best but I'm not sure of the extra cost to have the aluminum bent/shaped for the corners as by photos the hull sides/end overlays the transom skin.
Why do the newer ally boats have an internal ally skin on the transom? It seems to me that you can't see what is going on with the transom and that it is more likely to exacerbate moisture problems? If doing this repair would it be a good idea not to re-install the internal skin?
It looks like most doing this repair re-pour foam to the area that they needed to dig out for the repair. Wouldn't it be better to use the foam insulation boards in this area to help with moisture control, or even leave the area foam free?
The boats outer transom skin looks rough and already has 2 large patches. Obviously wouldn't know what is what until they are removed.
It looks like a tough/tight area to be doing any riveting if replacing the outer skin, so what about an overlay/large patch to the existing edges? Would this work and look ok or just look like crap? Though the removal/install of the new transom requires pulling the gunnel caps a fair way up the boat, if the outer transom skin was removed via drilling out the rivets I'm guessing this step would not be needed?
Having a whole new outer skin installed would be best but I'm not sure of the extra cost to have the aluminum bent/shaped for the corners as by photos the hull sides/end overlays the transom skin.
Why do the newer ally boats have an internal ally skin on the transom? It seems to me that you can't see what is going on with the transom and that it is more likely to exacerbate moisture problems? If doing this repair would it be a good idea not to re-install the internal skin?
It looks like most doing this repair re-pour foam to the area that they needed to dig out for the repair. Wouldn't it be better to use the foam insulation boards in this area to help with moisture control, or even leave the area foam free?