2001 Johnson 90 carburetor motor with OIS used to run 5500rpm
Originally thought a double firing power pack was at fault. Turns out my timing light was pulling signals from other wires at same time, apparently my inductive wire on light is not shielded enough.
Tried to test again with a different light and quikstart would not drop down, then went on to check yellow/red for no voltage when running motor. I straitened the wires out at the 2 power pack plugs, motor cut off like a kill switch was hit. Cranked it but no fire, pushed the wires in towards pins and she fired right up, quikstart dropped down in about 5 seconds. Idled at about 650 well. Tried to duplicate the problem with wiggling wires and doesn't do it any more. I have the same wire problem with the down trim plug wire, as if poor contact with pins. Second timing light does same as first light, inductive clip pulls signal from 4" away from wire.
This motor has under 60 hours on it, I bought it new from dealer in 2001. It has BRP sticker over a Johnson sticker, model & serial# sticker. It sat up for a few years with empty carbs & fogger. I pulled the bowl plugs before running it, they had pump oil in them from the tank(Mercury oil, which I emptied and changed) , pumped new fuel through them and reinstalled the bowl plugs. Fired it up on the hose pretty easy and let it idle a while. Took it to the water and it ran a little rough at first and cleared up. It had trouble reaching the high RPMs and would kick up 2-3 hundred with the primer, didn't want to run it lean so we put it back on the trailer.
Rebuilt the carbs and replaced throttle body to manifold seals. One carb was a bit clogged at the main with a little goop in the bowl, another one had a crack at the air bleed feral (low speed orifice #27)
which I have repaired with JB Weld. No one has ever worked on this motor but me, so I assume the crack was there from the factory. Replaced fuel line from portable tank (3/8" fuel line- old line was 5/16"), bulb and filter at inlet to vapor separator, also opened vapor separator and checked float and fuel, all good. Fired up on hose no problem, checked for air leaks with propane, no air leaks detected, trimmed up motor full (almost horizontal) with bowls full (motor not running) pumped bulb, no fuel leaks detected. Put it in the lake and runs good, primer now drops RPMs at all speeds, choked carbs with fingers also bogs down. Bulb stays up, not rock hard but works correctly. RPMs 5500 WOT on a couple of pulls but after a while would not go past 4100. Put it back on trailer and back to shop, did another comp test, still good at 135 all 4. That is when I thought I screwed the power pack cranking without plug wires grounded. That is where I am at.
Can't get the revs up, not starved for fuel (I think). Fuel pump maybe? I have a fuel line pressure test gage for car fuel rail schrader valve but don't know how to test the pump on the outboard. Coil or power pack failure? Loose wire(s) at pins in connectors? Would they cause failure in ignition components?
Thanks for taking the time to read all of this, tried to give all the info. Any ideas? What kind of timing light will work, mine is Mac tools.
Originally thought a double firing power pack was at fault. Turns out my timing light was pulling signals from other wires at same time, apparently my inductive wire on light is not shielded enough.
Tried to test again with a different light and quikstart would not drop down, then went on to check yellow/red for no voltage when running motor. I straitened the wires out at the 2 power pack plugs, motor cut off like a kill switch was hit. Cranked it but no fire, pushed the wires in towards pins and she fired right up, quikstart dropped down in about 5 seconds. Idled at about 650 well. Tried to duplicate the problem with wiggling wires and doesn't do it any more. I have the same wire problem with the down trim plug wire, as if poor contact with pins. Second timing light does same as first light, inductive clip pulls signal from 4" away from wire.
This motor has under 60 hours on it, I bought it new from dealer in 2001. It has BRP sticker over a Johnson sticker, model & serial# sticker. It sat up for a few years with empty carbs & fogger. I pulled the bowl plugs before running it, they had pump oil in them from the tank(Mercury oil, which I emptied and changed) , pumped new fuel through them and reinstalled the bowl plugs. Fired it up on the hose pretty easy and let it idle a while. Took it to the water and it ran a little rough at first and cleared up. It had trouble reaching the high RPMs and would kick up 2-3 hundred with the primer, didn't want to run it lean so we put it back on the trailer.
Rebuilt the carbs and replaced throttle body to manifold seals. One carb was a bit clogged at the main with a little goop in the bowl, another one had a crack at the air bleed feral (low speed orifice #27)
which I have repaired with JB Weld. No one has ever worked on this motor but me, so I assume the crack was there from the factory. Replaced fuel line from portable tank (3/8" fuel line- old line was 5/16"), bulb and filter at inlet to vapor separator, also opened vapor separator and checked float and fuel, all good. Fired up on hose no problem, checked for air leaks with propane, no air leaks detected, trimmed up motor full (almost horizontal) with bowls full (motor not running) pumped bulb, no fuel leaks detected. Put it in the lake and runs good, primer now drops RPMs at all speeds, choked carbs with fingers also bogs down. Bulb stays up, not rock hard but works correctly. RPMs 5500 WOT on a couple of pulls but after a while would not go past 4100. Put it back on trailer and back to shop, did another comp test, still good at 135 all 4. That is when I thought I screwed the power pack cranking without plug wires grounded. That is where I am at.
Can't get the revs up, not starved for fuel (I think). Fuel pump maybe? I have a fuel line pressure test gage for car fuel rail schrader valve but don't know how to test the pump on the outboard. Coil or power pack failure? Loose wire(s) at pins in connectors? Would they cause failure in ignition components?
Thanks for taking the time to read all of this, tried to give all the info. Any ideas? What kind of timing light will work, mine is Mac tools.