2002 V/P 3.0L GS -C Pics wanted

[Even Flow]

I have a 2002 Glastron SX 175 with a VP 3.0 GS-C engine raw water cooled, SX drive.

I opened up the raw water pump and replaced the impeller. It looked in great shape except it was missing one full blade. My only guess on this is that it was defective or maybe someone used pliers or a screwdriver to wedge it in and ripped it. causing the blade to come off. Being new with boat maintenance, I simply changed the impeller but have not flushed it as I do not know the best place to disconnect the lines to do so. Space is at a premium on my 17 footer and I have to remove the rear bench seat to get at the pump which is fairly easy, but time consuming. Engine runs flawless about 180 consistenly unless I run over 3800-4000RPM and then it heats up to 200 quick so I shut it down.

I have downloaded manuals and the overheat diagnosis bulletin, but before I start unhooking hose to attempt flushing I was hoping someone with the same exact engine could post some pics of where they recommend unhooking some of the water lines to flush. Looking for common areas where impeller pieces may reside. On muffs, it looked like all was good at low RPM and I can run for hours straight at lower speeds with a solid temp the whole time. I really think it is an obstruction and not something like an air leak or bad thermostat.

Also, I noticed some "joints" in the water line use threaded hoses clamps while others look like they are crimped in place with a different style clamp. For the ones that are "crimped" (no screw to loosen or tighten, can I simply replace with a threaded hose clamp?

THanks in advance for newbie questions

 

[rodbolt]

Re: 2002 V/P 3.0L GS -C Pics wanted

I would start by checking the riser, a clogged one will do exactly what your describing.
next check the plate under the riser if used, if used it has front and top stamped on it. its wrong, check the tech bullitens.
in good shape with a blade missing?
kinda like runs good,only overheats at idle.
one blade isnt going to clog anything enogh to overheat it.
you either cant get enough water in or you cant get it out,unless a head gasket is leaking from a prior overheat.

 

[Don S]

Re: 2002 V/P 3.0L GS -C Pics wanted

Also, I noticed some "joints" in the water line use threaded hoses clamps while others look like they are crimped in place with a different style clamp. For the ones that are "crimped" (no screw to loosen or tighten, can I simply replace with a threaded hose clamp?

I'm not sure what you are looking at, but there are no cooling water lines with crimped ends.
Post a picture of what you are looking at. BEFORE you go cutting things apart.

 

[KJSmitty]

Re: 2002 V/P 3.0L GS -C Pics wanted

I have a 2002 Glastron SX 175 with a VP 3.0 GS-C engine raw water cooled, SX drive.


Also, I noticed some "joints" in the water line use threaded hoses clamps while others look like they are crimped in place with a different style clamp. For the ones that are "crimped" (no screw to loosen or tighten, can I simply replace with a threaded hose clamp?

What you are describing is just that - a hose clamp yet it is a "crimped on." If you need to remove the hose, just cut the clamp off with a pair of dikes/cutters and replace with a conventional hose clamp that you can tighten/loosen with a screwdriver etc.

 

[Don S]

Re: 2002 V/P 3.0L GS -C Pics wanted

The Volvo cooling hoses DO NOT use those kind of clamps. That is why I told him not to cut or remove them until we know what they are.

 

[Even Flow]

Re: 2002 V/P 3.0L GS -C Pics wanted

I'll get some pics this weekend, but the first place I have one of the "crimped" clamps is where the hose that exits the water pump impeller housing first connects to the engine block. Being new to this, can anyone mark up a manual diagram or show me a picture of the riser and the best way to "open it up" to flush or clean?

I did find all kinds of pieces of an impeller in the bilge. The pieces are not from the one I just replaced as the pieces out numbered the single blade missing on the one I just replaced.

I see what you mean on "in good shape" but I meant it was not dry rotted, cracked, scored or even have any little corners or anything missing. It just looked like a single blade somehow ripped off on a new impeller.

If there was any prior overheat damage done (head gasket leak, etc) what would be symptoms? Just trying to see if there are traits mine has that I may just be chalking up as an 8 year old carburated boat.

 

[Even Flow]

Re: 2002 V/P 3.0L GS -C Pics wanted

Ok, here are some pics. Need help on what to disconnect to flush, Also, you'll see the clamp I described.

http://s993.photobucket.com/albums/af57/THEREED/

excuse my newbie lack of knowledge, but can someone point out the riser, thermostat and what houses they recommend disconnecting or doing? I am looking for common places where impeller pieces may accumulate. also looking for other symptoms of something more serious such as a blown headgasket. The engine seems to run great as long as you keep WOT runs short as the temp will climb quickly or 3500-4600 RPM

 

[Even Flow2]

Re: 2002 V/P 3.0L GS -C Overheat Diagnosis

Re: 2002 V/P 3.0L GS -C Overheat Diagnosis

ok, I have done my homework and read the service manual for my engine so I have more of a clue where the parts are people have described. I am still in the process of diagnosing my overheat problem.

My next step in diagnosing the issue is to remove some of the hoses from the thermostat and water pump. My hunch is that debris from an old impeller may be lodged in the thermostat assembly. In the pics I posted prior to this post, there is one clamp where the water line comes into the thermostat. There was some debate on the clamp and whether I could just cut and replace with a standard threaded version. Please confirm that there is nothing special about this clamp.

Also, if I am opening up the thermostat assembly, should I just replace the thermostat while I am there? This does not seem to be the issue as it seems to work fine, but the boat is 8 years old and it is a fairly cheap part.

I am trying simple things first before I either breakdown and hire a mechanic and have my boat out of water for awhile. Any other tips on common obstruction areas or quick flush techniques is appreciated as the general consensus is either water is not getting in or out quick enough

 

[Don S]

Re: 2002 V/P 3.0L GS -C Overheat Diagnosis

Re: 2002 V/P 3.0L GS -C Overheat Diagnosis

Have a look at this Volvo overheat diagnosis file.

http://www.4shared.com/file/50572185/e88f1d89/Volvo_Penta_Overheat_Diagnosis.html