2003 Suzuki DF140 - Tilt Trim Causes Engine To Bog Down

tlynch

Cadet
Joined
Sep 17, 2001
Messages
16
Hi Guys,

The engine is a 2003 Suzuki DF140 installed on a 1985 Boston Whaler Outrage 18. Great combination.

At the end of last year I noticed that when I used the tilt trim switch (either the one on the console or the one on the engine) the voltage drops 2-4 volts and the engine loses around 500 RPM.

By playing with the tilt trim switch you can get the engine from 5000 RPM down to 3000 RPM and it does not regain the RPMs unless you back off and accelerate again.

The engine was idling poorly. 1000 RPM then rough at 800 RPM and then back to 1000 RPM. Once or twice it stalled out.

If you gunned the engine from 2000 RPM it would only get up to 3000 RPM and it would stay there, but if you accelerated slowly from 2000 RPM it would get up to full RPM and behave normally - until you used the tilt trim.

The mechanics have replaces the battery cables and have the a good 1000 AMP battery hooked up. The old cables we a bit rotted.

Fuel filters also have been replaced.

The battery cables have helped the poor idling and possibly the acceleration (although I am not sure as I have not been out on the boat) but the tilt trim problem still occurs.

Right now they don't really know how to proceed.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Todd

----------- SIDE NOTE:

King Cove Marina (Suzuki Dealer in Stonington, CT) screwed with me for 5 weeks and did almost nothing and lied about parts they replaced. Their mechanic is a waste. F- You King Cove. I am not the first person in the area to have problems with them. Stay clear.
 

clanton

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 9, 2001
Messages
4,876
Re: 2003 Suzuki DF140 - Tilt Trim Causes Engine To Bog Down

Are the battery cables, factory cables for that engine, or home made cables?
Batterys cables spliced to make them longer?
Battery cables ends crimped or solder?
Wing nuts or hex nuts on atery termials?
Did the dealer have mulitmeter and a labtop with cable to connect to engine?

If the engine looses 500rpms when triming, you have problems with wiring, charging system, T&T motor, engine never lubercated, and the pivot points are seized.
 

pine island fred

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Dec 20, 2002
Messages
1,144
Re: 2003 Suzuki DF140 - Tilt Trim Causes Engine To Bog Down

First thing I would look at is a loose or corroded ground lug where the trim selonides ground. It will be a connection that is shared with other ground wires under the cowl. FRED
 

tlynch

Cadet
Joined
Sep 17, 2001
Messages
16
Re: 2003 Suzuki DF140 - Tilt Trim Causes Engine To Bog Down

Thank you both. I have been away for a little while and just got back to work on this problem.

I have taken the boat for several test runs. Here are the exact symtoms:

1) If you are at 1500 RPM and gun it, the engine chatters and only gets up to 2,500 rpm.

2) If you accelerate slowly you can get up to 5,000 RPM. If you accelerate further the engine chatters and drops to roughly 2,800 rpm.

3) If you accelerate slowly up to 5,000 RPM and use the tilt trim, the engine chatters and drops to roughly 3,000 rpm.

4) Voltage still drops when I use the tilt trim switch, at any speed.

The short wiring harness in the console and the tach had been fried. They have since been replaced. A buddy hooked up the battery backwards last year. They want to replace the main harness.

The battery cables and batteries have been replaces. I am not sure how they are connected, but it is a reputable shop so I assume they did a solid job. I will look next time.

NEXT STEP-

I am going to find where the tilt trim is grounded and see if there are bad grounds.

Other thoughts?
 

reeldutch

Lieutenant
Joined
Feb 2, 2004
Messages
1,340
Re: 2003 Suzuki DF140 - Tilt Trim Causes Engine To Bog Down

how is the fuel pressure in the fuel rail?
at wide open?

you mentioned a buddy connected the batterys backwords,
i would not be surprised if your ecm has been damaged.

this is what i would do.

- hook up a good battery with factory suzuki battery cables directly. no switch or studs.
- while cranking check the voltage drop.
while activating t&t check voltage drop
- hook up a fuel pressure gauge between the high pressure fuel filter and the fuel rail
pressure should be constant at about 35 psi.

let us know what you find

if you can get your hands on a ECM from a other 140 i would swap it to verify the ECM isnt the culprit.
 
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