2008 Tohatsu 9.8 4 cycle - low load stalling

CT sailor

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Hi all,

I've got a low hours, 4 cycle 9.8hp Tohatsu. It ran great for 3 weeks this year, then started stalling at anything less than 50% throttle just this weekend after idling for 15 minutes at the dock.

Gas is new/clean, I've got a Racor fuel/water seperator, the tank vent is open (when running), and the engine runs great over 50% throttle. The problem is bad when the engine is cold, maybe touch better when it's warmed up. Plugs look clean.

I added some injector cleaner, no dice yet. Ordered new plugs (nobody here stocks them) and will try them later this week.

What else should I look at? I don't have the service manual, though I think I need to buy it - any thoughts on messing with the mixture?
 

TOHATSU GURU

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Re: 2008 Tohatsu 9.8 4 cycle - low load stalling

Take it into a dealer as you have a three year warranty. The only thing the warranty is not going to cover is a dirty carburetor.
 

CT sailor

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Re: 2008 Tohatsu 9.8 4 cycle - low load stalling

Wish it were that easy - it's a remote control version and a real bear to take out, so I've got to get the guys to me for service. I'm about to do that, but I"m also fairly sure this is going to be something simple, would like to skip the delay and expense if I can...
 

CT sailor

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Re: 2008 Tohatsu 9.8 4 cycle - low load stalling

Take it into a dealer as you have a three year warranty. The only thing the warranty is not going to cover is a dirty carburetor.

I should also add that my wiring harness melted last fall (OEM, no modifications, 30 hours of light use) and the Tohatsu national rep couldn't/wouldn't do anything. "I've got no budget" unless you take it to a Tohatsu dealer - and the nearest is about 75 miles away. So word to the wise, don't but a Tohatsu if you don't have a dealer who will service it locally as Tohatsu will not support you.
 

pvanv

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Re: 2008 Tohatsu 9.8 4 cycle - low load stalling

Elvin's advice is good. That's what the 3-yr warranty is for. Unplugging the 5 wires and popping the 2 control cables should take you about 10 minutes, including a coffee break, so it doesn't add a lot to the uninstall time. Don't forget that the 9.8 has a quick-release control cable clamp, so you don't even have to disturb the control cable adjustments.

I own the same unit as you. Mine is a long shaft, installed in the lazarette well of my sailboat. Idle mixture is non-user-adjustable on this model. It sounds as though it may be a bit too lean, since the problem is worse when cold, which is typically a carb or fuel delivery issue. But of course this is "armchair mechanic" speculation, since I don't have the motor in front of me.

Some more information would help us here. How did you resolve the melted umbilical last year? We have never had one fail that way. A melted harness would be an indication of too much current for the conductor(s), which would be an indication of either a serious malfunction with the electronics, or an incorrectly installed harness. The harness wiring for the 9.8 RC is true, marine-grade wire, and very durable. Did a dealer do the original rigging? Has the harness been replaced? Did a dealer do the service? Was there any other problem diagnosed at that time?

The dealer network is how these units get serviced. Are you suggesting that Tohatsu should fly a mechanic out to troubleshoot and service your motor? Our dealership does field calls. The travel time is usually chargeable to the customer. After all, we do have to pay our mechanics. If disconnecting the RC is a problem for you, perhaps your dealer would consider coming to the boat to diagnose the problem.
 

CT sailor

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Re: 2008 Tohatsu 9.8 4 cycle - low load stalling

Paul, thanks - I appreciate your thoughtful response. A few bits:
- I am very unhappy with Tohatsu for their non-support of the wiring issue. The OEM dealer installed harness melted in normal use. I couldn't take it to a dealer (distance) and Tohatsu wouldn't comp me for either the part or the labor with my marina - who is Yanmar/Merc/etc. certified. No I don't think flying people in is the right answer, but reciprical courtesy with qualified mechanics seems reasonable to me. I think that's pretty lame support. So the resolution was to create a replacement harness from marine grade wire and it worked great for 3 weeks.

- I suppose you're right on the current issue (seems completely unrelated to the wiring harness since everything ran great for three weeks) - the problem probably lies in the carb and I'm trying to find anything (tips, tricks, backyard wisdom) that will save me time, money and hassle of removing the engine or paying to tear it apart on the boat.

So yes, I think it's likely that I'll pay someone to come down to work on it in the boat on my dime since Tohatsu won't work with anyone local to me.
 

TOHATSU GURU

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Re: 2008 Tohatsu 9.8 4 cycle - low load stalling

No outboard manufacturer will authorize a non dealer(for their brand) to do anything. All manufacturers would require you to bring the engine into an authorized dealer for service at your expense. Your not being realistic with that attitude. As too the problem itself, chances are it will be a fouled carburetor which wouldn't be covered under warranty anyway. That local Mercury dealer is fully capable of cleaning it for you at your expense.
 

pvanv

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Re: 2008 Tohatsu 9.8 4 cycle - low load stalling

Elvin's right. Likely needs a good carb cleaning, which would be chargeable service, regardless of whether a Tohatsu dealer or other shop does the work.

While you're at it, please verify that you have a good [10-micron] filter cartridge in the Racor. And... next time you are going to lay-up the 9.8 for a few months, it's a good idea to drain the carb. There's a screw at the bottom of the carb (accepts an 8mm wrench) to do that.
 

CT sailor

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Re: 2008 Tohatsu 9.8 4 cycle - low load stalling

Elvin's right. Likely needs a good carb cleaning, which would be chargeable service, regardless of whether a Tohatsu dealer or other shop does the work.

While you're at it, please verify that you have a good [10-micron] filter cartridge in the Racor. And... next time you are going to lay-up the 9.8 for a few months, it's a good idea to drain the carb. There's a screw at the bottom of the carb (accepts an 8mm wrench) to do that.

Hey pvanv, thanks for the thoughts.

I'm finally running again and maybe a bit wiser though far from satisfied with the situation.
- The Racor is new and clean, probably does nothing to help the situation.
- I've used only fresh/premium fuel from a high volume auto gas station.
- The two small jets were gummed so badly that overnight soaking still didn't clean them out.

Things I'm thinking of now to prevent the ethanol problem:
- Run it dry everytime I leave it
- Will look for the drain screw you mention on the bottom of the bowl
- Looking for the right additive to run, so far haven't found any conclusive suggestions
- Avoid idling. I idled for 15 minutes the day the gumming came to a head and I'm thinking that the engine/carb got hot with low cooling water flow and that evaporated the fuel but left the gum in the small jets.
- Do everything I can to prevent the EPA from approving or mandating E15 (E10 is the mandate today and a 50% increase in corn is going to be hellish for anyone with a small engine).

God I loved my old Yanmar 1GM10 - 6 years and it never failed, all I had to do was change the oil, filters, and put diesel in. Too bad it weighed 350# for 10hp vs. this 10hp Tohatsu that weighs 90#.
 

pvanv

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Re: 2008 Tohatsu 9.8 4 cycle - low load stalling

Glad you found the problem.

You are a victim of junk (or old) gas. We don't know for sure that your carb-crud can be traced back to it having been E-10. One thing that we do know at this point is that the fuel quality -- at some point -- was below par. The gumming may not have been caused by alcohol. If you did not drain the carb over the winter, the problem may have started in the off-season, and then shown itself this spring.

Although it came from a high volume station, there is a possibility that the fuel wasn't the best when you got it, especially if the station tank was filled (and churned up) just before you bought your load of fuel. It's plausible that the container you filled at the station may have had some crud or other contamination as well. In the future, verify that you don't gain any moisture aboard the boat. If you can keep the tank out of the sun (and you should), keep the vent closed when not running. A lot of small OB tanks sit for days/weeks/months before a full tank is run out, and moisture gain at the boat does happen sometimes.

Running a water-separating filter, such as your Racor is good. Be sure that you run a 10-micron element, which helps reduce any suspended water from making it to the carb. Again, we don't know for certain that water or alcohol was involved. We only know that you somehow got varnished jets in the carb.

These motors run fine on 87 octane; Premium doesn't seem to do anything better. Some premium blends may have additional detergents or similar additives, which probably doesn't hurt. We have been recommending K100-MG stabilizer for a couple of years now, and it helps a lot with E-10 phase separation, especially in bigger tanks, where the fuel sits longer. But... I have one fleet customer who repeatedly gets water contamination. Still not 100% sure of the source of his problem (could even be sabotage), but I have seen gel/goop/junk in the carbs of his motors multiple times.

I idle my 9.8 a fair amount, and have not seen any gumming issues as a result. These motors run on the cool side. Also, the carb runs a lot colder than any place else in the motor, because of the incoming cold air stream, and the fuel atomization in the venturi, and the trickle of incoming fuel from the needle valve. I doubt that idling promoted gumming in your carb -- just detected it.

Running the carb dry is good practice, especially if you expect to be away from the boat for a few days (or longer). The 9.8 sips fuel so slowly that you may find it takes quite a few minutes to run it down. Also keep in mind that this won't completely empty the carb bowl -- it will only get the fuel level down to the bottom of the carb body -- which will indeed eliminate varnishing in the emulsion tube and jets. Draining is better of course, but I haven't seen the need for that during the season.

See if you can find a gas dock that advertises "No Ethanol" on their pumps. We have two of these in Buffalo, and the folks who run that fuel have fewer problems than those who run auto station gas.




Hey pvanv, thanks for the thoughts.

I'm finally running again and maybe a bit wiser though far from satisfied with the situation.
- The Racor is new and clean, probably does nothing to help the situation.
- I've used only fresh/premium fuel from a high volume auto gas station.
- The two small jets were gummed so badly that overnight soaking still didn't clean them out.

Things I'm thinking of now to prevent the ethanol problem:
- Run it dry everytime I leave it
- Will look for the drain screw you mention on the bottom of the bowl
- Looking for the right additive to run, so far haven't found any conclusive suggestions
- Avoid idling. I idled for 15 minutes the day the gumming came to a head and I'm thinking that the engine/carb got hot with low cooling water flow and that evaporated the fuel but left the gum in the small jets.
- Do everything I can to prevent the EPA from approving or mandating E15 (E10 is the mandate today and a 50% increase in corn is going to be hellish for anyone with a small engine).

God I loved my old Yanmar 1GM10 - 6 years and it never failed, all I had to do was change the oil, filters, and put diesel in. Too bad it weighed 350# for 10hp vs. this 10hp Tohatsu that weighs 90#.
 

streamdream

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Sep 7, 2009
Messages
3
Re: 2008 Tohatsu 9.8 4 cycle - low load stalling

Hi,
I purchased a 2009 9.8 4 stroke Tohatsu back in April, broke it in and it ran great for a few months. Just lately it stalls at the boat launch sputters and it seems like the rpms vary from one day to the other.I run it at full throttle after trolling 5 hours coming back to the boat launch and it stalls when I throttle down.I have to keep adjusting the idle screw to keep her running especially in the morning. The dealer already got 150.00 out me for adjusting the valve clearance and lowering the oil level when it would'nt start one day.It starts fine and runs ok in a barrel of water but it fails the true test on the boat in the lake.I would appreciate your input.
Thankyou
 

CT sailor

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Re: 2008 Tohatsu 9.8 4 cycle - low load stalling

Streamdream,

Here's what I learned and what I did.

Everyone here will tell you to take your engine and get it professionally maintained under warranty, or if it's the carb it's your nickel.

I didn't want to go that route for many reasons including $$$ so here is the backyard solution that worked for me.

1. Chances are the engine is fine it's just that you've got crap in your carb jets. DO NOT USE ETHANOL/FUEL TREATMENTS unless you are absolutely sure that it's needed and going to work. My problems (twice clogged carb) were caused by fuel stabilizers I bought at WestMarine.

2. If it's really clogged you may have no choice but to take it and have it professionally cleaned. My first clog this year required ultrasonic cleaning to get cleared up. The second time it ran a bit better so I did #3 below.

3. If it's running just a bit, try this:
- Buy aerosol carb cleaner from an auto shop
- Spray it into the fuel,
- Spray it into the air intake
- drain the carb bowl (screw on the lower side of the carb), spray carb cleaner inside the drain hole.
- spray more everywhere
- run the engine to try and get a ton of cleaner all through the carb
- let it soak overnight
- spray everything again
- run it a bit more
- repeat all steps above

In my case, #3 worked for me and my engine got back to 100% overnight.

Note: don't bother buying the engine manual - I found it contained nothing that would help a reasonably skilled amature.

Good luck-
 

pvanv

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6,569
Re: 2008 Tohatsu 9.8 4 cycle - low load stalling

You are in the 3-yr. warranty.

Our shop probably would have adjusted the valves at N/C. If the oil was over full, did you accidentally overfill it, or was it idling a lot in cold weather and "making oil"? If the latter, see the FAQ for making oil.

Sounds like you may be getting varnishing in/on the emulsion tube and idle circuit. Not uncommon if the motor is laid up for a few weeks -- especially if using E-10 fuel. If it's a very mild problem, just running may clear it over time. If a little worse, "amateur" spray cleaning (as suggested by ctsailor) might de-varnish it. If anything more, it will probably need to come apart and be professionally cleaned.

The 9.8 does take a few minutes to warm up in the morning, but if the slow speed carb passages are clean as a whistle, it should idle OK.

The usual rules apply: Use good, clean, fresh fuel. Run a water separator, Drain carb if laying up for a few weeks.

Hi,
I purchased a 2009 9.8 4 stroke Tohatsu back in April, broke it in and it ran great for a few months. Just lately it stalls at the boat launch sputters and it seems like the rpms vary from one day to the other.I run it at full throttle after trolling 5 hours coming back to the boat launch and it stalls when I throttle down.I have to keep adjusting the idle screw to keep her running especially in the morning. The dealer already got 150.00 out me for adjusting the valve clearance and lowering the oil level when it would'nt start one day.It starts fine and runs ok in a barrel of water but it fails the true test on the boat in the lake.I would appreciate your input.
Thankyou
 

streamdream

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Joined
Sep 7, 2009
Messages
3
Re: 2008 Tohatsu 9.8 4 cycle - low load stalling

Hi Gentlemen,

I pulled carb off and it looked very clean, but I sprayed carb generously with carb cleaner and reinstalled it. With rabbit ears on, it started right up but as usual I had to turn up idle screw to keep her running. The remainder of the afternoon she ran beautiful. I let it sit for awhile, then started it and it ran perfect.I repeated this with no problems spraying intake with carb cleaner. I'll see how it runs at the lake soon. Will cold tap water make a difference versus warm lake water when first starting it? With past motors I had no problem with varying water temps.. Will turning idle screw down below manufactures spec. to slow trolling speed to desired speed for 5 hours, mess up the normal operation of this motor? Also,how do I check RPMS on my motor?
Thankyou so much. I really dread driving 45 minutes to the authorized marina for them to keep my motor for a week, possibly charge me again and be without my boat for another week. They did'nt get it right the first time.
Thankyou Again :confused:
 

pvanv

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Apr 20, 2008
Messages
6,569
Re: 2008 Tohatsu 9.8 4 cycle - low load stalling

Sounds like you did not do a thorough jet/tube cleaning, but apparently some of the solvent action of the cleaner resolved the majority of varnishing in the idle circuit. That's why we have mechanics, who do thorough carb cleaning.

Very cold tap water might make warm-up a minute or so longer. No big deal. The thermostat will take care of proper running temperature.

The idle stop screw should be adjusted after the motor is fully warmed up. RPMs are checked with a shop tach. The idle is already pretty slow on these (950 in neutral, 900 in gear), and lowering it too much below that can cause poor fuel distribution, and possible carbon buildup. However, giving the motor a blast of WOT after idling should help clear things up some.

If your dealer missed an in-warranty repair, they would likely not charge you to make it right -- we don't. But, they will not consider carb varnish a warranty issue.


Hi Gentlemen,

I pulled carb off and it looked very clean, but I sprayed carb generously with carb cleaner and reinstalled it. With rabbit ears on, it started right up but as usual I had to turn up idle screw to keep her running. The remainder of the afternoon she ran beautiful. I let it sit for awhile, then started it and it ran perfect.I repeated this with no problems spraying intake with carb cleaner. I'll see how it runs at the lake soon. Will cold tap water make a difference versus warm lake water when first starting it? With past motors I had no problem with varying water temps.. Will turning idle screw down below manufactures spec. to slow trolling speed to desired speed for 5 hours, mess up the normal operation of this motor? Also,how do I check RPMS on my motor?
Thankyou so much. I really dread driving 45 minutes to the authorized marina for them to keep my motor for a week, possibly charge me again and be without my boat for another week. They did'nt get it right the first time.
Thankyou Again :confused:
 

streamdream

Recruit
Joined
Sep 7, 2009
Messages
3
Re: 2008 Tohatsu 9.8 4 cycle - low load stalling

Hi Paul,

Well here we go again, motor has always been ok at home but fails on the lake. I started my 9.8 this morning at the lake and she warmed up fine, I pushed in the choke and she idled beautifully for 5 minutes as I got my fishing gear ready. I put it in forward and it sputters but I throttled up quickly so it would'nt stall. I cruised out to where I start trolling and as I throttle down she wants to stall and eventually I could'nt use the motor because it was to dangerous with the wind and waves. My electric motor got me back to the safety of the cove where I eventually got the 9.8 to run and troll for 3 hours. On the way in it started to sputter if I throttled to fast.
I called the marina and no answer.
If I soak the carb in a cleaner what parts do I have to remove so they wont be damaged?.
Thankyou :mad:
 

pvanv

Admiral
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Apr 20, 2008
Messages
6,569
Re: 2008 Tohatsu 9.8 4 cycle - low load stalling

There may be more to your problem than merely a slightly varnished carb, or maybe not.

If there's water or emulsion (or other junk) in the fuel, the problems will just come back. I like to see water-separating filters on 8/9.8 and larger motors. Also, is the tank completely clean, vent open, fuel fresh, etc.?

Sounds like the carb is slightly lean, and during transition from idle, does not deliver enough fuel, causing the stumble. Of course, a weak fuel pump could mimic this problem as well.

If it's a matter that you jave an "almost clean" carb, it needs to be fully disassembled (needle, float, jet, tube, etc.) and then either an ultrasonic cleaning or an overnight soaking in a good cleaner such as Tyme. You will need a Good, and correctly-sized screwdriver to extract the tube, otherwise it will get mangled, and never come out.

Anything plastic, leather, or rubber will be destroyed my this sort of harsh solvent action (that's why it's effective on varnishing). That includes the rubber gasket on the top of the carb that encloses the idle needle and seat chamber. Don't get the Tyme on your hands, as it's also effective at destroying the skin on your mitts.

Then, clean compressed air can be used to blow out anything that was dissolved. You should be able to see daylight through the center of the emulsion tube when you're done. It's a tiny passage, so it will look like a pinpoint of light.

Many people go to a good carb mechanic to have this job done.
 
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