Re: 25hp 3cyl help
Skegs are easily repaired or welded back or fabricated from 5052 sheet scraps1/8"-5/16" thick. The only consideration of real importance is if the skeg was broken flush with the bottom of the gear case. In which case the unit must be disassembled and welded with test assembly threaded in the back of the lower unit then removed when done. Otherwise welding the skeg 1" or more from the housing will not affect the lower unit seals and parts. Both pieces of aluminum MUST be beveled on BOTH sides at 45' angle to at least 1/16" thick at the center using a disk sander with 40-60 grit. Use a big candle to put wax on disk to keep from loading up. Remove all paint from about ?" from weld area Pre heating is not necessary. When ready to tack weld, two pairs of vise grips and piece of 1/8" backing steel should be used to hold in place. Alignment is important! GROUND ON THE LOWER SKEG ONLY!!! When one side is tacked, immediately remove clamps and tack the other side. If you don't do this, the skeg will "draw" to one side. 5356 filler should be used and NOT 4043! Use MIG if the unit is broken flush with the case or TIG if broken lower. Once the unit is welded, it can be shaped very quickly using a disk sander and 40-60 grit disk. Use the shape of the upper part as a guide taking care not to sand on it. Switch to 120 grit to finish sand. Alumiprep, Alodine, Zinchromate, Paint and your done. Any warps or bends can be peened out using a 2 lb. hammer for bucking and a 12-16 oz. ball peen hammer using tin smith ratta-tat-tat method.
