Just wanted to give back a bit for all the help I've received from these forums. There's a big void to fill without Don S. Thanks again one last time Don-
1) Sierras Ujoints 18-2104 did not fit. Also all manufacturers cross listings to that number did not fit my 290DP.
The volvo part shown in the drawing for my unit was 897707-6. The good news is that Mallory 9-72404 does fit.
Remember to order 2 for each drive.
2) The flywheel housing (mine is the 2 bearing model) was easily removed by scooting the engine forward approximately 18".
The Chevy 350 engine is not balanced on the engine mounts as one post said. It definitely needed support in the back.
Once the housing clears the transom plate it will drop and probably go through your hull if you don't.
A hydraulic press was definitely required to remove the shaft from the housing once it was on the bench. We bought one for $200, but a machine shop should be able to do it for you.
Bearing adhesive should be used in the housings aluminum bore.
3) I tried all methods for removal of the trim cylinder mounting pins from the transom plate that I could find.
This step was the most difficult and took the longest of the whole job and hopefully save anyone doing this a lot of time. After removing the retaining bolt....
Fashioning a mini puller:
Screw in a piece of 6X1mm threaded rod (grade 5 if you can get it) about 3in long into the pin, but do not let it bottom out.
Run a nut over the rod all the way up to the pin and tighten just enough to lock the rod in place so it no longer turns in the pin.
Pick a 3/8 drive socket thats larger diameter than the pin (I think I used a 3/4")and slide it over the rod and nut. (square end out)
Put a beefy washer or nut with a hole larger than 6mm and thread them on to the rod on top of the socket.
Center the socket over the pin and tighten the 6mm nut slowly to pull the pin.
This will take out the pin as much as it will fit into the depth of the socket or it will mushroom your washer(s)
I used a nut larger than the threaded rod to replace mushroomed washer(s) and eventually broke the threaded rod
This method STARTED 2 of my 4 pins.
Big pry bar- works every time:
Get a set of cheap pry bars, the straight ones with a short angled blade on the end. Be sure theres one at least 2 1/2 ft long
Cut a notch slighty wider than the threads of a 6mm bolt into the center of the blade of the large pry bar with an angle grinder. 1/2" deep or so.
Screw the bolt into the trim pin but do not bottom it out
Place the notched pry bar against the transom plate and over the bolt. But don't pry on it yet.
This is key to getting it to work. Place a second smaller pry bar between the transom plate and the large pry bar.
Flip around and position the bars to get a 100% straight-out pull with the big bar.
I was able to make this work on the inboard pins where I couldn't even touch the retaining bolt.
1) Sierras Ujoints 18-2104 did not fit. Also all manufacturers cross listings to that number did not fit my 290DP.
The volvo part shown in the drawing for my unit was 897707-6. The good news is that Mallory 9-72404 does fit.
Remember to order 2 for each drive.
2) The flywheel housing (mine is the 2 bearing model) was easily removed by scooting the engine forward approximately 18".
The Chevy 350 engine is not balanced on the engine mounts as one post said. It definitely needed support in the back.
Once the housing clears the transom plate it will drop and probably go through your hull if you don't.
A hydraulic press was definitely required to remove the shaft from the housing once it was on the bench. We bought one for $200, but a machine shop should be able to do it for you.
Bearing adhesive should be used in the housings aluminum bore.
3) I tried all methods for removal of the trim cylinder mounting pins from the transom plate that I could find.
This step was the most difficult and took the longest of the whole job and hopefully save anyone doing this a lot of time. After removing the retaining bolt....
Fashioning a mini puller:
Screw in a piece of 6X1mm threaded rod (grade 5 if you can get it) about 3in long into the pin, but do not let it bottom out.
Run a nut over the rod all the way up to the pin and tighten just enough to lock the rod in place so it no longer turns in the pin.
Pick a 3/8 drive socket thats larger diameter than the pin (I think I used a 3/4")and slide it over the rod and nut. (square end out)
Put a beefy washer or nut with a hole larger than 6mm and thread them on to the rod on top of the socket.
Center the socket over the pin and tighten the 6mm nut slowly to pull the pin.
This will take out the pin as much as it will fit into the depth of the socket or it will mushroom your washer(s)
I used a nut larger than the threaded rod to replace mushroomed washer(s) and eventually broke the threaded rod
This method STARTED 2 of my 4 pins.
Big pry bar- works every time:
Get a set of cheap pry bars, the straight ones with a short angled blade on the end. Be sure theres one at least 2 1/2 ft long
Cut a notch slighty wider than the threads of a 6mm bolt into the center of the blade of the large pry bar with an angle grinder. 1/2" deep or so.
Screw the bolt into the trim pin but do not bottom it out
Place the notched pry bar against the transom plate and over the bolt. But don't pry on it yet.
This is key to getting it to work. Place a second smaller pry bar between the transom plate and the large pry bar.
Flip around and position the bars to get a 100% straight-out pull with the big bar.
I was able to make this work on the inboard pins where I couldn't even touch the retaining bolt.
Last edited: