3/4" ply or 1/2" ply? for 1979 ProCraft 1500

[blkvyyper]

Hello Forum,
Been awhile since i been here, but i've been busy. I've started the demo on my boat, i left the cap on and i am cutting around the edges to gut the boat. It's a 15' 1979 Procraft 1500. I plan on redesigning the decks, console, seating so my question is should i come back with 3/4" ply or use 1/2" ply throughout the whole build or a combination of both. Everything will be glassed of course but i'm concerned about weight. I want it to be strong as possible but want it light as possible.

Also what is the easiest way to remove boat stringers glued in?

Thanks in advance to all the experts on this forum, it is greatly appreciated.
Link to boat pics:

http://s1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff491/blkvyyper/

Demolition Pics:

http://s1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff491/blkvyyper/Demo of 1979 ProCraft 1500

BlkVyyper

 

[Cadwelder]

Re: 3/4" ply or 1/2" ply?

Re: 3/4" ply or 1/2" ply?

Ahhh another ProCraft from the "presoldout" era. My favorite boat. 1/2" plywood is fine for all the deck work. All the ProCrafts I've done have had 1/2" from the factory. I personally don't see the need for the extra weight of the 3/4" plus it won't match what was there.

As far as leaving the cap on....that will prove to be a challenge to get a good job. It's tuff to fit the new deck in and under consoles, storage lockers, etc. And I'm not real crazy about the idea of splicing it in to "a little left" of the old deck, but your choice.

The stringers in your boat are either 2 x 6's or laminated 3/4" plywood to make the 2x stringers. Either way they are not for say "glued in", but glassed to the hull. You'll have to grind the glass tabbing loose and they should come out rather easily. I've had a few where I had to pry a little but they'll come out. Again this will be tuff with the cap on since the stringers run the full length of the hull.

CW

 

[blkvyyper]

Re: 3/4" ply or 1/2" ply? for 1979 ProCraft 1500

Thanks Cadwelder for the reply, i guess i left out a little information about the cap. I have cut the around the cap and gutted the interior. Your right about the stringers, the main stringer (keel i think its called), is a 2x8. It's not laminated ply to make them. i was wondering if i could go back with that and glass over them or should i use laminated ply? Using 2x's would be a whole lot easier to do and take less time. I was told that the water content in it would be to high, but i'm not seeing the problem if i glass over them well before installing them.
Since you've done a few of them and this is my first rebuild so i'm hoping that i will be able to call on you if i run into trouble. The boat rode low in the aft area and i found out why last night of demolition day 2. Removed a bunch of wet, waterlogged wood under what looked like woven roven. So i'm still removing the woven. Would you use epoxy or poly for this project? i really dont understand what the difference is in the two. From what i've read, there are pros and cons to both, one being the price of poly vs. epoxy. I'm not sure about the going back with woven, rather use 1708 and CMS. If you look at the above demo link in my original post to my demo, you will see the pics i posted thus far.

BlkVyyper

 

[Cadwelder]

Re: 3/4" ply or 1/2" ply? for 1979 ProCraft 1500

You can go back with whatever was there from the factory, on you stringers.

As to the weight issue with the water soaked wood, I've lightened boats by as much as 800 pounds during a restore from just removing water soaked foam and wood. Make sure you get it all out and dry everything out good.

As far as the resin, both epoxy and polyester have pros and cons, but for me I use polyester resin only for several reasons.

#1 Price

#2 Epoxy is stronger than polyester resin, but the polyester is stronger than you need for the boat so why overkill even more.

#3 Your boat was built with polyester resin orginally and you see how long it lasted.

#4 The curing time for epoxy is much longer than polyester so it takes longer to complete a project

#5 Epoxy is great for wooden boats and it's a fantastic glue. Also good for just coated wooden parts to seal them (like seat bottoms, recovering them, etc) Polyester resin requires the use of CSM or cloth to gain it's strength, coating wood with the resin alone will result in cracks very soon.

I've used woven roving in repairs many times but have switched over to the 1708 as well. It's a good material and a little easier to work with than woven. I you go with woven roving be sure to add a layer of CSM between each layer of woven and start off with a couple layers of CSM first.

My experience with epoxy is very limited for the reason listed above. I'm not saying you can't use it for your repairs, just saying I don't see the need for it.

CW

 

[blkvyyper]

Re: 3/4" ply or 1/2" ply? for 1979 ProCraft 1500

Thanks for the reply CW, Did you see how i gutted the boat with the cap still on?
Learning more everyday. Spent today cutting wood for my woodstove in my shop where the boat is, people say green doesnt burn well, well i beg to differ. An older gentleman told me to to start of burning dry then put a log or two of green on it. well let me tell you, it was in the 40's here and it was 90 in my shop! so it does work...LOL spent alittle while this evening sorting through that wire mess....geez. I asked a question awhile back on the forum about why not use 2x's and glass them. well looking like the noob i am, i was told moisture content would be a problem and then eventually rot. i was thinking that if they were glassed properly, it would take yrs to do so if ever. But to me using 2x's would be alot quicker to do than all that laminating.
I was contemplating which to use, your more experienced at this than i am so your expertise is very well appreciated. I was on Ebay and found some resin (55 gallon drums) for 200 bucks. Dont know if its poly or epoxy but what i hear on how much glass soaks it up, think it would be a good deal. and with that much, i could soak my wood overnight to make sure they soak up as much as they can. How many layers would put on the inside of the hull?
Your right, that poly lasted since 1979 so it cant be all bad, just for the life of me can't figure out why they didnt do a better ob with the wood. The stringers were actually good, but might as well put all new in it on the rebuild. I'm also thinking of raising the deck some from its original position, maybe a couple of inches to sit a little hire in the boat. what are your thoughts on foam? that pour stuff which adds weight, or some of that close cell pink sheets you can get from home depot?

One more question, can you use automotive paint to paint your boat then clear it with automotive clearcoat? also thinking of using md20 which is a thick primer used for cars, was thinking of using it to prime my boat also.

BlkVyyper