30 years Outboards, Getting an Inboard/ Outboard. Now what...

[E_S_A_D]

Not spending big bucks, but more of a boat to scoot around in. 1987 Four Winns 160. It has a 3.0 Alphadrive engine in it. Good motor/ boat? It runs great from what I've seen / heard so far.

So, does this have its own oil spot or just put it in once a season like a car type thing and fill a gas tank?

I'm so new to inboard/ outboards compared the the old mixed gas. How big's the gas tank? Anything I s hould know about these types of boats or this boat in particular?

Should I stay away?
It's odd being so new to an aspect of a boat/ inboard/ outboard, being around outboards my whole life.

 

[Scott Danforth]

you are looking at a marinized 4-cylinder industrial motor. the marinization was done by Mercruiser. the 3.0 is a stroked version of the 151 that originated in 1962 in the Chevy II. the 3.0, much like your cars motor has its only oil pan with oil. oil needs to be changed every 50 hours or every season

If you havent bought the boat yet, make sure you read this:http://forums.iboats.com/forum/gene...eeding-help-buying-a-boat-a-buyer-s-checklist

your potential new to you boat is 29 years old. make sure you look it over carefully

you fill the gas tank like a car. did a google search and found this

Dimensions
LOA: 16 ft 0 in
Beam: 7 ft 2 in
Minimum Draft: 1 ft 6 in
Dry Weight: 1280 lbs

Engines
Total Power: 130 HP

Engine 1:
Engine Brand: Mercruiser
Year Built: 1987
Engine Model: 3.0
Engine Type: Inboard/Outboard
Engine/Fuel Type: Gas/Petrol
Propeller: 3 blade propeller
Drive Type: Stern drive
Engine Power: 130 HP

Tanks
Fuel Tanks: 1 (19 Gallons)

 

[E_S_A_D]

This is a great response, thanks. Okay, makes sense about the fluids. Change the oil every 50 hours then put straight gas into the tank. 19 gallons.

 

[batman99]

My buddy looked for a used boat and after several test rides, he decided to skip the 3.0 (which ran with high RPMs and "sluggish" at times) and went with much stronger / less higher RPM 4.3L engine instead. I rod in his 4.3L boat and its amazing. It cruised across the water without even struggling. And, it could easily pull tubers - without being over stressed. My next boat (especially for deep / clean water) will be 4.3L version. Hope this helps...

 

[JimS123]

That's a fine boat and the 3.0 is the optimum motor for that rig. You should expect good speed and fuel economy, plus good towing ability. I know someone who had the same model.

That said, its an old boat and rotten innards are a likely possibility. Check the hull carefully.

 

[JimS123]

3.0 (which ran with high RPMs and "sluggish" at times) and went with much stronger / less higher RPM 4.3L engine instead....

Not much difference in rpm range for the 2 rigs. The 3.0 cited either had a bad prop, the wrong prop and if sluugish was probably all worn out.

 

[Chris1956]

A couple of observations: A 16 footer with a sterndrive will be cramped in the cockpit. Moving around the seats and motor box will require nimbleness.. The 3.0L power should be fine. You will like the fuel economy of the I/O, as it is twice that of a 100HP OB, which would be the equivalent HP, if we factor in the extra weight of the I/O.

That I/O motor and outdrive will require lots more maintenance than an OB. In addition to the normal OB maintenance, you will need to pull the OD at the end of the season to grease the U-joints. Regular replacement parts are the U-joints, gimbal bearing, exhaust manifolds, thermostat and shift cable and driveshaft bellows. In addition, like US cars from the 80s, you will likely need to replace starters, alternators, waterpumps and the other usual auto replacement items.

You will also need to winterize the block and manifold, if your area gets below freezing. Saltwater use increases maintenance.

I recommend a service manual as the winterizing and maintenance will cost a lot at a shop. It will average a couple of hundred $ a year, if you do the work yourself.

 

[roffey]

for what it's worth, we had a 3l OB ( I think, was 120 hp) on a used boat we bought in the early 80. It was a 1967 Peterborough (I think, it was older). The boat ran until 2015 and finally needed a tune up. My point is not all old boat require lots of replacement parts and some times the cost of the boat will make the couple of years on the water worth it, wet your feet so to speak with out a huge investment.

 

[roffey]

I should add the boat was serviced every fall, fresh oil and out drive checked but not pulled.

 

[E_S_A_D]

Thanks guys, very helpful information. A couple of hundred to winterize every year at a shop? That seems high... For my outboard I usually pay like $60.

So, if it runs good, etc., then this is a solid motor?

 

[roffey]

I have a I/O and pay $360 just to winterize, If they check the outdrive or pull it I pay double. Having said that I can winterize my motor myself and it's not that hard. The only reason I take it in to get winterized id the boat is under warranty.

 

[airshot]

About 4 years back I went to an I/O after boating for more than 40 yrs with outboards. I was in your shoes then, but now...I have no issues with the I/O, but then again I do my own work. If I had to rely on a dealer for my service then cost would be prohibitive. I searched carefully and looked closely at the 1983 boat I bought.
I am an aluminum hull fan so no rot to worry about and the 3.0 engine was in great condition. I pull my own outdrive at the end of the season, change my own oil and filters, and winterize the engine myself, it takes about 4 hours to pull the OD, winterize the engine, pull the batteries, and put her to bed in my pole barn. And yes the fuel economy is much better than my OB's could ever be. Yes there is more labor in an I/O but the bigger boat and fuel savings make it worthwhile to me. And yes I am 66 yrs old so it can't be that hard to do yourself.

 

[JimS123]

Thanks guys, very helpful information. A couple of hundred to winterize every year at a shop? That seems high... For my outboard I usually pay like $60.

So, if it runs good, etc., then this is a solid motor?

That engine has been in continuous production for over 50 years, and is probably in more boats than any other I/O model. Yeah, you could say its solid...LOL.

Outboards don't need to be "winterized". If you mean an "annual service", then its about 1/2 hour work and maybe 20-30 bucks. A quart of lower unit oil, a few squirts of grease and a few squirts of fogging oil.

For an I/O you do that as well, but add 5 quarts of motor oil and a oil filter to the cost and an extra hour to the labor. The DO need "winterizing", and that's merely draining the water....easy peasy. Its the $120 / hr labor rate that makes dealers charge so much.

Pulling the outdrive for u-joint replacement is more of a 100 hour service, so if you are an average boater it need not be done EVERY year. That requires a new gasket and the proverbial few squirts of grease. When that is done its likely time for spark plugs and a new impeller as well. But if you had an OB you would need to do that anyway.

 

[mr 88]

For an I/O you do that as well, but add 5 quarts of motor oil and a oil filter to the cost and an extra hour to the labor..

That may cost you but don't forget your not spending anything for oil that you would be putting in the outboard when you mix the gas.

 

[E_S_A_D]

Good point Mr. 88, plus the convenience factor of not mixing gas/ oil.

The winterization of $360 sounds incredibly steep. I'm surprised at that.

 

[roffey]

you have to keep in mind that a marina has a short season and a lot of over head. In most cases if not all they have prime waterfront and highly paid staff. When winterizing they do more than just change and fog the motor. In my case they check the whole boat for defects and I would think its the same for all boats. I'm in Canada and it seem most things are more expensive here but I bet we are not that far off.

 

[roffey]

... and like I said you can do this your self. An I/O is really just a car motor.

 

[roffey]

Thinking on the price a little harder. hot off the web site

to winterize a O/B is $175 plus Plus HST (Canadian Tax at 13%)

*Oils, Lubricants, A/F, Parts are Extra
* Prices are subject to change without notice.


As I said they pulled the out drive to check so that would count for the higher price.

 

[JimS123]

Yeah right.....LOL.

Sure, that's what in effect you are paying them to do, but in the real world does it really get done?

The last time I had work done in a marina was the last time I ever will. Parts were not assembled correctly, the lubrication points were not lubricated, the blige was full of spilled oil and the carpet was filthy. The mechanic left scratches on the top of the fenders from his boots. And they have the audacity to demand socks only in the showroom when you climb into one of THEIR boats. To make matters worse, this was the largest, oldest and most expensive dealer in the area.

Not criticizing all dealers, but getting your money's worth is getting harder and harder.

 

[roffey]

I may have worded it poorly, my boat is still under warranty so it is in the best interest of the dealer to inspect the boat, not saying they do this for every boat.