I have a vac leak and need to pull the intake to replace gaskets. Trying to decide if I really want to do this job or not. Do I need to remove the risers to pull the intake?
hint - mark where the dizzy was as you pull it to help put it back in the right location upon assembly. I normally witness mark the intake and dizzy body, and use a sharpie to indicate where the rotor is prior to pulling, and where the rotor ends up with as the helix of the cam gear turns it when pulling.
If the intake was leaking would there be obvious signs such as oil or steam coming out? After reinstalling intake I was actually finially able to set the timing properly on my '86. For some reason now I'm back to the same old issue where the engine rpms will just all the sudden drop down to about 500 and it will stall out. I can't set the timing at 8 degrees either above or below. I'm wondering if I didn't use a big enough bead of gasket maker.
Wow I was just thinking about something with this carb. The new base gasket they gave me at boat store looks different the original I had on there first pic is old one, second pic is new. Is this probably causing my issue with it not idleing at correct rpms?
Wow I was just thinking about something with this carb. The new base gasket they gave me at boat store looks different the original I had on there first pic is old one, second pic is new. Is this probably causing my issue with it not idleing at correct rpms?
Unlikely. Both gaskets should seal the carb to the flange on the manifold. The lack of gasket between the two sides of the carbs will have a minimal effect on its metering. You say you have a vacuum leak. Cracked or disconnected hose on manifold or carb? Leaking choke pull-off o carb? Q-jet carbs can be noisy just from the air rushing through the small primaries. A vacuum leak doesn't suddenly drop the rpm. An electronic advance distributor can
You can test for a vacuum leak with come carb cleaner or WD40. You can spray it around the carb to see if the RPMs change. It doesn't sound like a vacuum leak though. That usually causes erratic idle.
you have to find the vac leak. I use a combination of an unlit propane torch and a can of carb cleaner to find a vac leak. however the drop in RPM by 500 sounds like either fuel delivery, or carb issues.
when was the last time you replaced the water separator filter? did you inspect its contents?
you have to find the vac leak. I use a combination of an unlit propane torch and a can of carb cleaner to find a vac leak. however the drop in RPM by 500 sounds like either fuel delivery, or carb issues.
when was the last time you replaced the water separator filter? did you inspect its contents?
Recently, while troubleshooting this problem. Could a spun rod bearing cause that? Im having trouble getting the the timing to set in at 8 degrees and 650 rpm.
Isnt this the same motor that has a bad rod? Im assuming yes since u asked! 650 or 700 rpm 8 btdc wont make a differance on that engine. Google vacuum test on sbc and do it. If its knocking stop waisting time and money.
