30hp pull start won’t start after changing pawl

[spacerust]

I just recently purchased a used scooter and it came with a 1993 Johnson 30hp pull start. As I always do, I changed the plugs, checked the compression, impeller, gear lube-all the general things. He told me that it had a broken pawl so I ordered one as well. Before I changed the pawl, I had it to where it would start pretty easy, within a few pulls, but I also had some other issues that he didn’t either know about or addressed. The motor is a long shaft so it was sitting low, had a lot of drag and according to him, would use up 6 gallons in one trip. So I bought a jack plate to move it up 3 inches. I took it out to try it and now it won’t start in the water. I come home and it starts on the first of second pull. I don’t think replacing a pawl would drastically change starting it, would it?

I went over and doubled check fuel lines, fuel pump, carb, primer bulb, choke and it all seems fine. I came home hooked it back up to the ears and no problem. I understand the back pressure, but I don’t know if I’m missing something simple or?

 

[boobie]

Check your compression again. Then check your spark. It should jump a 7/16 " open air gap on the proper tester.

 

[racerone]

Well-----6 gallons in one trip means nothing.-------How long was the trip ?----How long did the motor run , at what RPM ?-----What are the compression numbers ?----How are you using the " choke " on this motor ?----Is it a choke or a manual primer pump ?

 

[spacerust]

I’ll double check the compression, but I remember checking it when I first bought it about a month ago and it was 108, 103-105 on the second, somewhere in that range.

The bay he would fish is less than 4-5 miles from his place. He said it took a long time to get on plane, but I know it’s because the motor was set a litttle more than three inches too low so it had a lot of drag and felt like it was plowing through the water. This scooter is 13’ and only weighs 350 pounds. He didn’t have a tach on it, but I just ordered one so I can get a better understanding because the way he has it set up, you have to push the throttle all the way, crank it till it starts and then rev it down- I don’t like that. There really is no idle “stage”. If you bring the control throttle down to where the neutral is, it turns off since he removed the motor lockout. It has a choke that you pull/push out. I know it seems like a lot, but it’s a lot of little things so I’m just trying to make it reliable and efficient. I just can’t think of why it change drastically from removing the pull starter, cleaning all the gunk out, greasing it and adding replacing the pawl that was broken. Thinking out aloud, the rope was in good condition so I didn’t replace it, it is it possible the spring wasn’t wound tight enough to pull at a higher speed to start? I guess I just need some fresh minds because I may be overthinking the situation.

 

[racerone]

----There is no choke flapper on the carburetor.-----It has a manual primer pump ( not on the hose) that must be operated the proper way for near instant starts !----Check your owners manual for the proper starting procedure.

 

[F_R]

If the recoil starter cranks the engine, it is doing what it is supposed to do, so get your mind off that. Having to have it at full throttle to start indicates there is something wrong. Possibly starting/running on one cylinder ??? Motor requires some orderly troubleshooting, not just guessing. It needs the 3 basics to run, compression, fuel & air in the right amount, and spark to at the right time to ignite it. In addition, two-strokes need crankcase compression. Sorry, we aren't there, so you have to do the checking.