350 timing question

derek4325

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 7, 2015
Messages
160
I think i got my ESA issue solved, (will find out once in the water) long story short i changed a .7ohm coil to a 3ohm coil so we'll see how that works out. ANYWAYS i have a timing question. I have the engine timed at 8° btdc as the manual says. As you can see in the attached pictures total advance should be between 28° and 30°. I revved the engine to just over 3000 rpm and advanced my timing gun and the total advance was actually 34°. Someone before me installed a petronix ignitor II electronic ignition, i installed a flame thrower 3ohm coil, and I'm not sure if this distributer is stock or not (i assume not) or what brand it is. So i ask you, is this situation okay? Should i do this test under load? Or if this situation isn't okay what should i do to correct it? Thank you for any input! 1988 omc cobra 5.7 260hp
 

Attachments

  • photo318978.jpg
    photo318978.jpg
    412.1 KB · Views: 1
  • photo318979.jpg
    photo318979.jpg
    331.1 KB · Views: 1
  • photo318980.jpg
    photo318980.jpg
    343.6 KB · Views: 1

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
13,029
If you get knock you could always retard the timing slightly so that your total advance matches the spec. And use premium gas to be on the safe side. You can't always hear knock in marine engines. Where oh where did they dig up that old style Delco window cap? We had those back in the 70s for adjusting points with an allen wrench. I still have the flex tool version of it!
 

derek4325

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 7, 2015
Messages
160
Your dizzy is marine approved but your cap is not. Need a cap without the window

The dizzy is a higher performance one which allows for 34 degrees total. Spec shows 30 +/- 2 so you have 2 more then spec. As long as you don't have preignition your good, but your motor also doesn't have a knock sensor

https://www.hardin-marine.com/p-90526-chevy-v8-billet-distributor-pertronix-d200800.aspx


Okay thank you for the input, I know some distributers have adjustments that can be made for mechanical advance so I'll look into that. Also learned that some fuels will make a difference in timing, maybe ill retard the initial timing by a degree or 2 for piece of mind. That being said would you or anyone happen to know what brand of distributer this is so i can purchase the proper cap? The last thing i want to do is create an unsafe condition and would never intentionally use non marine equipment in a boat.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,548
It appears to be a prestolite cap, maybe the Sierra 18-5352
 

derek4325

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 7, 2015
Messages
160

Attachments

  • photo319013.jpg
    photo319013.jpg
    255 KB · Views: 0
  • photo319014.jpg
    photo319014.jpg
    269.2 KB · Views: 0
  • photo319015.jpg
    photo319015.jpg
    251.3 KB · Views: 0

derek4325

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 7, 2015
Messages
160
If you get knock you could always retard the timing slightly so that your total advance matches the spec. And use premium gas to be on the safe side. You can't always hear knock in marine engines. Where oh where did they dig up that old style Delco window cap? We had those back in the 70s for adjusting points with an allen wrench. I still have the flex tool version of it!

Im probably going to time it according to full advance spec and just hope that is still runs OK at idle. Im already using a coil that isn't recommended by pertronix for a v8 engine but i have no choice since the CDI shift module needs to see 3ohm. If it were up to me it would still be all stock and i would adjust the points once in a while. But anyways it seems now i need to replace the cap to marine since it has the window. I'm currently trying to find a cap with female contacts, fastens with the spring and the "L hook" (forgive my terminology) and is capatable with my existing rotor. I'm thinking about making a new thread just for this cap issue to have someone reccomend a part #. I don't believe the one that AllDodge guessed will work because they appear to be screw down type. Ohh and for the record i always use at least 89 octane as specified in the manual :)
 

ab59

Ensign
Joined
May 10, 2017
Messages
979
Well , I know I'm probably getting into the middle of something here but I just have to say that I just did the opposite of what you did with your ESA and Coil. I went with a CDI ESA after burning up the old ESA with a 3 ohm coil. I installed a .
7 or a 1 ohm , don't remember which. The directions are on their site. Maybe you have some kind of different Resistor than I do but it just struck me odd that you are doing the exact opposite than I just did.

A.B.
 

derek4325

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 7, 2015
Messages
160
Thanks guys, i did order the new distributer cap/ rotor that AllDodge found on amazon. It installed just fine and i adjusted my timing to where it's full advance is within spec where i find it to be the most important. Idle timing is at like 3.5 or 4 degrees which is lower than i would like it to be but it still runs okay and i feel better now that I'm not going to melt a piston (spark plugs are way cheaper than pistons) As for the ESA, i will be posting a new thread on my findings. Ab59, i reverted back to something similar that you did, after i put on my 3ohm coil, my engine ran good until the coil heated up and i lost spark in no.1 cylinder if i revved past 1500rpm, so i put my old .7 ohm coil back on, no resistor because pertronix recommends you dont use one with their system. Water tested boat and it all currently runs and operates/ shifts as it should. Only thing of it is, my old coil is oil filled where i perfer it to be epoxy filled. I have it mounted level and i now keep the 3ohm one onboard incase i need it to limp home, but so far so good and i have had this oil filled one all season.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,548
Thanks for the update. Hope you have a great boating rest of the season
 

ab59

Ensign
Joined
May 10, 2017
Messages
979
Good to hear derek-- Coils are pretty cheap , if the oil filled .7 bugs you then buy another that is Epoxy filled ( .7 ) and keep the oil filled for a spare. I can't help but think that the HOT coil will just cause you more problems if you keep it .
Enjoy-----------------a.b.59
 
Top