35HP Took head off and one extra dirty and one clean

DevinM

Cadet
Joined
Jun 16, 2020
Messages
28
35EL78R
So this isn’t running right. When I have it running for a few minutes it seeps unburned 2 stroke oil out of the wheeling hole of LU. Found a weak spark on #1, the clean cylinder, replaced power pack and got strong spark. Have 110psi when it’s cold. Wanted to replace some gaskets today and was surprised by what I seen.
Even after PP replaced it coughs/sneezes at idle. Idle needle is fine and have it backed out 1 1/4 turn. Going for gaskets behind the reed valves because I had a peddle fall off and replaced it w/o gasket with no issues for months after. Good thing it exited through the exhaust lol
I don’t have a boat to put it on to test timing after PP installed as the book says to check.
I’m just wondering if I got water #1 why didn’t it clean the spark plug too? Am I about to burn #2 cylinder? If anything it looks like water could’ve got in #2 because there are beads of water around the diameter. Something seems very off balance. Please let me know what you think. Appreciate you guys. Be easy on me.
 

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racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,422
Your motor needs to come apart for rebuilding.-----No need to argue about it.
 

RBoyd1971

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 20, 2020
Messages
165
Yea, looking rough. You keep running it like that, and a skirt from one of those pistons is going to go through the side of the block when it gets hung up in the crankshaft after breaking loose from slapping around in there.. i would say water definitely getting in the one cylinder
 

DevinM

Cadet
Joined
Jun 16, 2020
Messages
28
Your motor needs to come apart for rebuilding.-----No need to argue about it.
Hey thanks for getting straight to the point. Saved me a lot of time.
Im not arguing but want to attain a little more knowledge from you; thought a rebuild would only be necessary if compression is down/ uneven.
This must not be a fuel or ignition problem?
The original issue was replacing a bad stator.
What I’m thinking is you must know once disassembled there is a bigger problem with in?
But if I took the advice to rebuild I’m thinking the new pistons would end up like these too.
A rebuild isn’t so far fetched seeing as there will be no machine work needed.
Again I’m not doubting your response at all just wanted a tad more.
Thanks for the knowledge all of you provide!
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,422
Your motor needs to come apart !----Cylinders are worn / scored ?-----Pistons are scrap.----Motor needs machine work.----End of the story.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,422
Use this motor.------By that I mean for you to take it apart as a learning tool.-----Will help you on motors in the future.
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,930
A rebuild isn’t so far fetched seeing as there will be no machine work needed.
Cylinders need bored...looks like it may have gotten really hot at some point.
 

phillnjack2

Ensign
Joined
Apr 30, 2011
Messages
918
head gasket gone bad. leaking between cylinders, can see that easy enough.... bring cylinders to top and clean off the carbon, then lower a touch wipe cylinder walls then low more and wipe again. put rag in the cyl with piston down and with some 400 grit clean up the top 1/2 inch of cylinders to get rid of any ledge made over the years.... refit new head gasket..... on the carbs turn the mixture screws in until lightly seated then back out 2 full turns and run the motor... take for a full blast run of atleast 30 seconds then with motor still at full throttle in gear turn it off and take out the plugs, take pics of them. this will tell you if running lean or rich.... you cannot do this on muffs or in a test tub without a test wheel... but the clean piston is water cleaning it... the other cylinder is way too rich......... make sure you use a decent oil.... you have a lot of un-burnt fuel causing the massive carbon build up... you should also see a nice jump in compression...
 
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