4.3 GL tune up spec questions

Scott06

Admiral
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Apr 20, 2014
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Long time Mercruiser owner/shade tree mechanic, helping a close friend with his 2002 Glaston 185 that has a 4.3GL & SX sterndrive.

Boat appears to have classic symptoms of needing carb rebuild - rough idle and stumble of transition, some surging when on plane. Fuel filter clean, he went through did cap rotor, plugs and wires last year as the coil wire was coming out of the distributor cap repeatedly.

I have done a lot of carb rebuilds over the years so not concerned about general how -to but this will be my first Holley. It has a 2 bbl carb number 75006-1, which I believe is a 2300 series.

Is there anyone who can tell me or direct me to OEM Volvo specs for -
Float level
initial idle mix settings ( is it the typical 1.5-2 turns out?)
any other carb specs needed?

Having never done a Holley (lots of Mercarbs, Rochester 2 jets, Edlebrock & Carter AFB's) are there any special tools I need for the rebuild? Anything to pay attention to unique to Holley's?

Typically I soak my carbs in berrymans or similar in an ultrasonic cleaner, but that strips the paint off which I was hopeing to leave on as it is a factory untouched carb in decent shape. Does anyone have cleaner recommendations that will leave the paint on?

Also it has a Delco Est ignition - can anyone confirm the initial timing in base mode and total advance ? Wasn't sure if it was the same as for Merc at 8 initial and 24 total. I thought when not in base mode at idle should be 12-15 BTDC?

I think his thermostat is stuck open which is probably not helping the idle. I didn't have my IR gun when I was looking at it this weekend but the two hoses coming of the thermostat housing to the manifolds never get warm. I'm assuming these should be passing hot water after a good WOT run like I did this weekend?


Thanks
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Holley carbs are easier than anything else to rebuild.

Make sure passages are clear
 

Scott Danforth

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Scott, I can walk you thru if you need. Does this have externally adjustable float? (Hex nut and screw). If so, super easy to set float.

A 2300 2-barrel will be a 350 CFM or a 500 CFM. Only other changes are slight jet changes. Other than that, nearly all 2300's are similar
 

Scott06

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What is the air horn numbers?
Attached
Scott, I can walk you thru if you need. Does this have externally adjustable float? (Hex nut and screw). If so, super easy to set float.

A 2300 2-barrel will be a 350 CFM or a 500 CFM. Only other changes are slight jet changes. Other than that, nearly all 2300's are similar
Not externally adjustable nor is there a sight plug in side of float bowl…

pretty sure it is 350 cfm.
 

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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Paint is Ford red if you need to paint it
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,272
Under the squirter is a needle that acts as a check valve. This sometimes gets gooed up.

Normally you only need the bowl gasket and the metering block gasket. Idle circuit pulls from bottom of bowl and thru bottom of metering block.

Accelerator pump either has a check ball (older) or a rubber umbrella check valve. If the rubber umbrella, once you pull the little dingus thru the hole, use a side cutter and nip the dingus leaving the little mushroom head. Or it will hang the float up.

Mineral spirits is less harsh than berrymans
 
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