4.3 jasper in Rinker 206 captiva

[ryno6972]

I recently bought a Rinker captiva 206 with a 4.3 MerCruiser drive. I paid 750 for everything boat and trailer with clean titles. I herd it run the day I bought it (he dumped gas down the carb). I brought her home and commenced to trouble shoot. It has a Jasper block with no fuel pump block port. It has an electric fuel pump running 12 pounds that I just learned is 6 pounds to many. It has a busted fitting on the fuel tank I assume the anti siphon fitting. Several wiring issues I think those will be just a matter of doing it nice and neat. Both lift cylinders need replaced/rebuilt. The tilt trim pump needs a solenoid. And once all that is done we need 2 new tires. Cosmetics can wait till winter.

So I have just a few questions. The anti siphon valve I think will just need drilled out, tapped and a new pick up tube installed. I think I should remove the level sending unit in a effort to clean out the tank as best I can. The electric fuel pump. It looks fancy I will try to adjust it tomorrow because it pumps fuel out the top of the carb. How can I figure out how this engine is set up Marine or Automotive? Edit Should I rebuild or replace the cylinders?

Thanks
Ryan

 

[NHGuy]

Hi and welcome to the Forum.

I'd recommend going to the top of the forum and look through the Mercruiser information. Doing that will help you learn how to find your own answers.

But to be specific on your questions.

On the Anti siphon valve I'd use an extractor. You need to avoid drilling to avoid sparking!!!

I agree on tank cleanout, test the sender while it's out. The stickies will lead you to the manual which will give you ohms to expect from the sender.

Marine VS automotive? Pretty much the same. Don't sweat that stuff. If you end up removing the engine look for brass core plugs. If they are steel switch them.
If you get the heads off, the head gaskets switch to stainless. Verify that you have marine electrics. That's important, they are sparkproof.

You can rebuild the trim rams, but the tool to open them is pricy. Probably good to just buy some.

 

[alldodge]

Howdy

Please read the forum rules, there can be no offer to buy or selling on the forum. These can be done via PM

If the fuel pump is not adjustable, you can install a regulator
Agree don't drill unless the tank is empty and no fuels can be smelled, maybe put some water in it to rinse. Could try something like an easy out

 

[thumpar]

Make sure there is an oil pressure switch for the fuel pump. For the rams look at SEI rams. They are cheaper than rebuild kits.

 

[ryno6972]

Thanks guys,
We spent the afternoon working on the old girl. We pulled the carb and did a deep clean on it. The carb had water sitting in the float bowl witch caused obvious problems with the jets.We cleaned it with brushes and compressed air. Once we had a clean carb we ran the boat for about 20 mins. The water pump works. The alternator works. The fuel pump is adjustable and I tuned it down to 7 pounds I can't seam to get much lower. I do not see anyway to hook up a safety switch to this pump. I don't really like it anyway it is loud. I did notice I can't hold a low idle. It runs a bit rough at lower RPM. It does rev out nice and sound nice.

I do not know much history on this Rinker. The guy I got it from said he put a few new parts on it. I think he is the one who broke the fuel feed nipple and installed a procomp fuel pump on it. It has a jasper engine in it I found the sticker. It was a cheap boat with good floors that runs.

A easy out will not pull the broken fuel nipple. Maybe with heat it would. Since I have no desire to explode myself or my sons. We are draining the tank. Rinsing the tank. then we will leave some water in it and do our machine work. To make this task easier it has 3/4 of a tank. I am guessing around 30 gallons.

I also have no desire to be the guy towed in to the boat ramp. been there done that. One time I was so mad I refused tows and used the oar to bring my bayliner 1950 cuddy in to the ramp (3/4 of a mile). So Judging buy the aluminum pitting in the carb I think a replacement carb may be the way to go. I am guessing my low idle problems are coming from the carb.

Once i can run this girl from her own tank I will look at new fuel pumps. No need to spend money until I know I have a good project base. I think I do. I will post pictures in a bit. My wife wants me to shower for some reason!!

I will edit the first post to remove the soliciting for part. Sorry for the mistake.

Thanks

 

[alldodge]

Your on the right track. If your looking for a part all ya got to do is mention something like, need to find some cylinders on craigslist. If someone has some and see's it they will let you know.

Your edit time is only good for about 3 hours

 

[achris]

Hello Ryan. I think you'll find you have a mercruiser 4.3 engine. Jasper being just the company who supplied and installed it. I have also edited out the solicitation in your first post. If you can find a serial number anywhere that would be helpful. Ever a serial number from the drive or transom assembly will help get us to the year of the engine. Once we have that then we can supply you with right information and wiring diagrams. Can you tell us what type of carb it is? 2bbl or 4, Weber, Rochester or Mercarb?

Chris.....

 

[NHGuy]

Good thing you are not keeping the fuel pump. Procomp never made one that's marine rated as far as I have seen.
To see how Mercruiser wires the electric pumps get the 1998 application shop manual. It's very basic, not a big deal.
I bought a pressure switch from Iboats. Lo and behold the 3 terminals are marked. I, S & P. I is the purple hot ignition wire, S is a purple with yellow striped from the 3rd unused terminal on the on starter solenoid. And P goes to the pump via a fuse. It's also marked purple with yellow stripes. Smart guy will have the pump terminal go through a relay so the oil switch never sees pump load. My 90 gph pump has a 15 amp fuse.

 

[ryno6972]

Thanks for the edit,
It is a 4.3. I have a 2 barrel carb. I think its a mercarb. I have pictures but it looks like this is a url only forum format. I will have to do that tomorrow morning at work.

 

[ryno6972]

No Title

So here is the external Pictures of the Rinker

 

[ryno6972]

No Title

Here is a photo of the Fuel Fitting that has to be fixed. This I think needs to be fixed before I start purchasing Parts such as lift rams or Carburetors.
The procomp fuel pump that came on the boat. It would be nice if I could run a standard cam driven pump. I am not seeing anyplace to install one.
The lift ram is toasted. Looking closer I do not think there is much to save on these rams.

 

[alldodge]

I don't know if the tank can be repaired without welding, will at least need to be tapped to NPT

The trim cylinder could be rebuilt with a new seal kit 25-87400A2
It may not, but if you get them apart it might be done

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/30858/1017/140

 

[ryno6972]

I don't know if the tank can be repaired without welding, will at least need to be tapped to NPT
]

I have a friend with a welding shop who is more than able to weld a new port in the tank. Several problems occur with that tho. The main one being how to not explode ourselves in the process. Does the floor have to come up to remove these tanks? From everything I have found it looks like yes.

Thanks

 

[alldodge]

Yes, floor has to come out. Just did mine last year, what a job

 

[ryno6972]

No Title

Well I and my team (2 Sons) got the fuel fitting out.The spiral easy out wouldn't do it so I borrowed a square one from a toolmaker at work and that did the trick. I hope to chase it with a 1/2 inch NPT tap, install a new pick up tube and anti siphon fitting. I guess I will scour the net for the proper pick up tube and get that bad boy on the way to my homestead.

Sure glad I didn't have to pull the tank.

I bet this boat needs new bulkheads and stringers. The floor is rock solid but the bulkhead by the fuel tank is pretty bad. We will see if this Rinker is worth that much effort.

Thanks guys.

 

[ryno6972]

My fuel pick up tube is 9.5 inches long, well whats left of it. It is aluminum and has 1/2" inch od. I bet what I am calling 1/2" NPT is more like 1/4" NPT. Best I can find is this pick up tube and cut it down. assuming I can get it threaded in and non leaking. I have in the past used Teflon Tape for this type of fitting but this is a boat and a fuel fitting. I will have to check that out before I reassemble it.

I am thinking this is my part right here. I will check the local marine tomorrow for one before I order it online just to keep going forward quicker.

 

[alldodge]

Man that is great!!!
Sure looks like your pickup tube and should work

I would use pipe dope and not Teflon tape.

Now if the engine side is soft, check around, I bet other things are just as soft if not more so

 

[achris]

... It would be nice if I could run a standard cam driven pump. I am not seeing anyplace to install one.

Gen 2 and later blocks no longer have an apeture for a mechanical/cam driven fuel pump. You need to get a proper marine electric fuel pump, and run it through an oil pressure switch. If you need a diagram, let me know.

Chris......

 

[ryno6972]

Looking to place my first order for parts. I am a bit confused as to witch fuel pump I should order. The one in this link fits the bill but I am not sure if the GPH is where it needs to be. I hope I never burn 16 gallons of fuel in a hour, but if it needs it I guess it needs it and the Fitting Size is 1/8th NPT and everything else is 1/4 NPT.

 

[alldodge]

The pump your listing is a 16.8 gph but this is free flow. Once the 1/8 NPT fittings are installed and the pump needs to lift the fuel your going to loose (I'll guess) around 1/2 the output. I would suggest the marine pumps Holley Red 712-801-1 or the Carter P4389