5.0 Quick drain Winterization

[Lancerdad34]

This is my first boat with the block drain valve. I know this subject has been discussed before a whole lot. My question is do I drain the block before running antifreeze in?

Thanks,

Brian in Mi

 

[ThomW]

Simple answer is yes. Many folks will drain the engine block and not use antifreeze at all...with the idea that air can't freeze.

If you don't drain the engine and run anti-freeze through, you will end up with diluted anti-freeze that isn't so anti-freeze anymore.

If you are going to use the antifreeze, you're better off pulling the hoses from motor and dumping it in there, as most times when people pump it through muffs, they don't get engine warm enough to open thermostat and it doesn't get where it needs to be anyway.

Make sure you drain the block (all the plugs) and pull the hoses off to get all the water out though.

 

[Bt Doctur]

What you MUST DO FIRST is remove the block drain quick connects and make sure the block does drain, rust and sediment clog the drains and results in a cracked block

 

[Bt Doctur]

 

[Lou C]

A relative has one of the newer Merc 4.5 liter V6s with that quick drain system, we used it last fall and it seemed to drain a lot of water so thinking it was fine, then I manually filled with AF. And it was fine no problems in the spring.
My thought for this year is to collect what drains from the engine starting with a dry bilge, if it comes close to filling a 5 gallon bucket then it still drained. I know it takes about 4.5 gallons to totally fill my 4.3, and that Merc 4.5 is just an updated 4.3. That engine compartment is so damn cramped I can't fit myself down in there, if there was a problem. Really prefer my old engine with manual drains and METAL drain plugs!

 

[Lancerdad34]

What you MUST DO FIRST is remove the block drain quick connects and make sure the block does drain, rust and sediment clog the drains and results in a cracked block

Thanks for the reply!
I am going to look next time at the boat. There is not much room down there to work!

 

[QBhoy]

Hi. Likely said above. But I open the single point drain valve…then the plug on t stat. Let it drain and keep an eye on volume of water that came out (roughly and for reference). Then I also take off all the quick connect fittings around the engine that feed the communal drain system. Just to make sure nothing is blocked. Close the valve…take the big hose and each manifold hose off the t stat and then pour in a little antifreeze and make sure it runs out the fittings where the quick connect all were. Especially the block drain on either side. Then do every thing back up right again…and pour in antifreeze into big hose and fill the block until it runs back out t stat housing. Be about 15 litres to do so with a margin. Then pour antifreeze into each manifold hose until it runs out the outdrive. Another 5 litres perhaps.
Don’t risk it doing it the YouTube amateur hour way…with running the engine on muffs. Recipe for disaster. Leave her full using a method like I’ve described and you can’t go wrong.

 

[Buster53]

If you are going to use the antifreeze, you're better off pulling the hoses from motor and dumping it in there, as most times when people pump it through muffs, they don't get engine warm enough to open thermostat and it doesn't get where it needs to be anyway.

I’ve always used the muffs to run antifreeze into the block, but I also remove the T-stat first, now I don’t have to worry….is it open or closed?

 

[Lou C]

Manual drain & back fill is easy and doesn’t waste AF.