50hp johnson 1975 50esl75b remote control box locks in full foward/reverse.

[tiles]

1975 50hp johnson outboad with johnson control box 50esl75b with original single handle control box with throttle warm up handle / lift lever on side of control box. Because of hard shifting caused by broken gear tooth, I just Installed new shift lever remote control ,which has three gear teeth that line up with the two gear teeth on the shift and throttle plate. ( shift and throttle plate attaches to the outer shift lever/handle used to shift boat motor into forward or reverse).

PROBLEM: After lining up gears of both shift lever remote control with the shift and throttle plate (in the neutral position,and lining up the middle and largest of three gear teeth of shift lever remote control in between the two gear teeth on the shift and throttle plate) I can then shift into forward and reverse, but if i go past the point where the motor engages into forward or reverse and accelerate full throttle to increase engine speed (with outside shift lever horizontal in forward or horizontal in reverse) the shift lever locks and wont allow lever to shift back to neutral. With control box open , I can see while trying to shift back to neutral, the shift lever remote control does not engage with the shift and throttle plate gears correctly and actually tries to move farther in the opposite / wrong direction as it tries to engage with the throttle plate assembly gears. I am doing this with the throttle warm up handle and shift side of control box removed so i can observe. I am lining the gears up each time at the neutral position, where the neutral start switch is depressed and the gears are all engaged in the middle gear slots.

Question: Is this a gear engagement problem, where I need to buy a new shift and throttle plate to match with / mesh with the new shift lever remote control or does the forward and reverse cable attached to the shift lever remote control need to be tightened or adjusted so the shift lever remote control doesnt go too far beyond/away from the shift and throttle plate gears when shifted into full forward or reverse. I can shift the motor into forward and reverse normally back and forward, back and forward as many times as i like as long as i dont go past the gear engagement position , and dont shift further as if to accelerate. Or is it something else. thanks in advance.

 

[bonz_d]

I am pretty familiar with 3 of the most popular control boxes and actually have one of each here but by your description I have no clue as to what you are talking about. I am assuming that this is a single handle box with the throttle warm up lever on the side. Also have no idea what you mean by a banana shaped lever.
Also just as an FYI by the model number you listed that is a 1975 50hp and there was no 55hp made that year.

Post up some pictures if you can.

 

[tiles]

hi, bonz D, I intentionally put 55 instead of 50hp as a stumper to see if anyone would catch it and you did, so , good job and now I know that youve been around the water a few times. 1. yes , this is single handle box with warm up on the side , original to 1975 johnson 50hp. motor attached . 2. Per ***************** diagram/ schematic,"remote control parts for 1975 johnson 50hp" ( http://www.*****************/parts/jo...Remote+Control) the gears im describing are #95 shift lever remote control (I called banana shaped thinking it might help further describe it but i guess i blew that one) and #37 shift and throttle plate. These both have gear teeth that engage each other and when you push or pull the #33 lever (shift handle) to go forward or reverse the #37 shift and throttle plate (attached to the #33 lever (shift handle) engages the shift lever remote control #95 which is attached to the cable that shifts the motor to forward , neutral, reverse. Shift lever remote control has three teeth, the one in the middle is larger than other two, and shift and throttle plate has 2 gear teeth. I am engaging/assembling both parts together in neutral with shift lever remote control middle and largest of the three gears in between the shift and throttle plate two gears. (cant show this in pics) see pics attached.

 

[tiles]

admiral, Here are some miscellaneous pics of my boat ive had 15 yrs now and only on the water once two years ago until this shifting problem, and I also found my service manual and am going to chpt 8 to read more on remote control. also i cleaned up my description of the problem in first post, per your suggest, and thanks, it was confusing , and maybe less now?

 

[tiles]

UPdate: After reading service manual remote control section and it didnt say anything about my exact problem, but gained some insight into how the remote control works , I loosened the throttle friction adjustment lever and the shift lever moves more easily and after that ,now it will shift from neutral into forward and accelerate smoothly as many times continuous as i like, but from neutral into reverse the lever wont move from neutral and i dont want to force it. ps. I can move the shift lever with my hand to full forward or reverse. And I do notice that after returning to neutral from forward the lever does not come back to the full neutral position where it is supposed to depress the neutral start switch but only just starts to depress it and is about 1/2 in away from full neutral which is where I align it when i assemble it/put it together. Also for your info, note that the #95 shift lever remote control (id as shift lever in service manual) and thats what i will now call it. I replaced the old shift lever because the top gear tooth was broken and the bottom two gear teeth where still ok. Also the #37 shift and throttle plate (id as cam in service manual with the two gear teeth ) and cam is what I will now call it. So the assembly would be described as, the shift lever gear teeth move the cam gear teeth and vise versa.

 

[bonz_d]

Ahhhh, a test!

I have that exact same engine in the garage right now that I have been trying to sell, also have that exact manual and it is a good one to have.. Unfortunately the manual doesn't list the parts by number so I will have to go to BRP site and reference those numbers.
As per the manual there is some adjustment that can be made to the neutral switch. Still trying to figure why it's not moving from neutral to reverse. Something has to be misaligned, worn or binding.
Try disconnecting the cable from the engine and see if you get complete movement in both directions.

 

[tiles]

Admiral,50es75 service manual pg 8-6 figure 8-16 (43076) gear mesh shows shift lever and label "teeth" points to shift lever teeth and cam (labeled bushing)teeth.

 

[tiles]

Its a magnificent day here is florida to work on your boat, if its in the shade. OK, someone tell me how delusional I am with this . With cam off, shift lever will shift fairly smooth manually into forward and reverse and forward and reverse both engage about 1/16 or earlier either way from where hand shifter (outside on remote control) is vertical/straight up in neutral.(full rotation of hand shifter if you could, would be 360 degrees, nuetral/vertical straight up would be at 360 and full forward or reverse speed would be 1/4 (90 degrees reverse / 270 degrees forward) from vertical or in the horizontal position ). Cam is supposed to disengage from shift lever for forward and reverse at 1/8th position from hand shifter vertical. Im thinking that the shift lever continues to rotate after the 1/8th position/pushed by the cable, where it disengages from the cam and is supposed to stop but keeps rotating away from its stop position enough so that cam gear teeth cannot touch it on return to neutral. If this is true, would a fix be to adjust the shift cable at the motor and would I tighten or loosen the cable? Do I have a clue here or to life itself.? You can only get experience from experience. Im going to walmart to buy my boat battery now. Thanks all.

 

[tiles]

well admiral and all, the remote control now shifts normally into and out of forward and reverse after adjusting the shift cable at the motor just a little. Shifting fine again. Now its on to installing electric choke switch in remote control,(does it really help with starting? and adjusting forward acceleration cable or carb to increase speed. I will post these in diff post or category but if you know if a local cheaper off the shelf auto or boat switch will work to turn on/off electric choke , if I can find one to fit , please let me know here now and also is it a on/off or a spring hold to activate on with your hand pressing it and when release off to deactivate choke, on this same engine? thanks admiral and all for the help. You can only get Experience from Experience. Happy boating from Orlando.

 

[bonz_d]

Any of the ignition switches that have the push in key to choke will also work. It just removes the toggle switch from the circuit.
BTW, good to hear you've gotten sorted out.

If you fallow some of my original posts/topics you will find that I often use this forum as a sounding board for ideas. It's a great place to bounce ideas and share information or even at time opinions. Believe me I've had my opinions changed a number of times on here by other members when I was shown my thinking was incorrect..