55793 stuck in gear

[wannabewelder]

Busy day here, I also tore into my 1969 55hp selectric shift. It is stuck in gear. I ohmed out the coils and they are both 7ohms, I know forward is the default gear but is there an oil pump inside I need to contend with? Cranking over without fuel in the tank the prop turn and seems to slip every 3rd revolution. Before I rewire this is it normal? I put 12V to the green/blue wires independently and it did not change direction or stop turning. Wife dragged it home for me, wiring harnes is shot, gear selector push button is seized and has no spark. Compression is good motor was supposedly in use and could be a great motor IF I don't have to tear down the gearcase. Thanks in advance!

 

[boobie]

What's the oil like in the gear case ??

 

[oldboat1]

gear selector push button is seized and has no spark.

There is a sliding plastic yoke under the buttons that functions as a safety switch. Try moving the remote lever to the neutral indent, or rock it back and forth. Buttons should unlock.

 

[wannabewelder]

There is a sliding plastic yoke under the buttons that functions as a safety switch. Try moving the remote lever to the neutral indent, or rock it back and forth. Buttons should unlock.

did that, it needs to be taken apart. I have other switches but that's the least of my issues. I disconnected it and hot wired the neutral to no avail.

 

[wannabewelder]

What's the oil like in the gear case ??

Possibly if there is a hydraulic pump it could be low. I didn't drop the oil till I hear what I'm looking for insofar as damage or if I should just run in a bucket.

 

[racerone]

Yes there is an oil pump in there to shift this motor.-----A good lower unit shifts to neutral after one turn of the flywheel with 12 volts applied to the green wire.-----Electric shift is very simple and reliable.

 

[wannabewelder]

Yes there is an oil pump in there to shift this motor.-----A good lower unit shifts to neutral after one turn of the flywheel with 12 volts applied to the green wire.-----Electric shift is very simple and reliable.

I tried to do exactly that on Fri. I'll check the oil as a last precaution but I think I was taken advantage of. This motor was supposedly in use as of last Oct. Has rotten wiring, no spark, bent throttle/ choke linkage, bad gearcase. Thijnking I'd like a partial refund from the seller.

 

[wannabewelder]

Yes there is an oil pump in there to shift this motor.-----A good lower unit shifts to neutral after one turn of the flywheel with 12 volts applied to the green wire.-----Electric shift is very simple and reliable.

Well, I checked the oil and there was about 2 oz in the gearcase. No metal but it was dark green and smelled like sulpher. Looks like a teardown is in order. Im just not willing to spent the money so it's a parts motor to scavenge for one that runs.
Thanks for the help.

 

[oldboat1]

You might fill the gearcase with ATF and let it set for a day or two. Drain it and fill it with ATF again, then see if it works for you. Not too much cost involved.

 

[wannabewelder]

old boat, thanks but I don't take chances. I need to know it's good. Gearcase needs a reseal so may as well do teardown and check the harness for brittle wires/ shorts as well as clutch condition and know it's safe. I don't mind doing a reseal or tuning but the "running" motor has all the wiring melted, shorted, covered in silicone and doesn't have spark. I would repair one or the other but not both. I picked up a clean 76 that was in pieces for less money and put a fuel pump on it, gear oil in lower, and it is working fine. Owner said they did the carbs and it wouldn't idle.......then for whatever reason they took the gearcase off.....maybe so they could lift it?

 

[oldboat1]

The sulphur smell is probably an indication that hypoid gear oil was used, rather than the oil intended for electric gear cases. ATF will clear that out, and approximates the gear oil used in that case. It (ATF) is an emergency substitute when the gearcase is in use.