60HP 1990 Electrical problem

[yann]

Hello, <br /><br />My 60Hp motor had a electrical failure and some electrical shortcuts burnt/cut some cables.<br /><br />I think I have indentified what piece was defective and I beleive I could change it myself.<br /><br />I found the electrical drawing of the motor and I put a little webpage with pictures of the burnt area and the electrical drawing.<br /><br />Can anyone help me telling what is this 9 B N-OA piece what is it for? <br /><br />How serious do you think it is?<br /><br /> http://www.lemerle.com/evinrude/evinrude.html <br /><br />Thanks,<br /><br />Yann - Sweden

 

[ezeke]

Re: 60HP 1990 Electrical problem

The burned part is the rectifier. It converts AC from the motor to DC to recharge the battery. The motor should run fine without it but you will have to recharge your battery more often. <br /><br />The rectifier can be damaged in a second by reversing batter cables, loose connections, bad battery cables or disconnecting battery cables while the motor is running. <br /><br />For the moment, just remove it and keep your diagram so that you can rewire the new one.

 

[ezeke]

Re: 60HP 1990 Electrical problem

You might also want to read this bulletin:CDI service bulletin

 

[yann]

Re: 60HP 1990 Electrical problem

Thank you very much ezeke!<br /><br />On Monday, I will try to get a new rectifier from Evinrude and some fuses as well. I believe that I must have burnt a fuse because the motor stopped at once while working and I haven't been able to start it again. The motor react but don't start.<br />I will also follow recommendations of the CDI service bulletin.<br /><br />Tbe motor is new to me (I baught it last week) and I hope I can fix it.<br /><br />Thanks again for your help.

 

[yann]

Re: 60HP 1990 Electrical problem

Last night I recharged the battery and this morning I could start the motor without problem <br /><br /><br />However, when I started the motor I could hear for 30 sec Beep Beep Beep .. After the beeps stopped I noticed a white smoke and water going out of ejection gaz<br /><br />There is a steady flow of water going of the motor . <br /><br />Are the beeps an overheating warning? (the motor had just started and was cold)<br /><br />Could it be a pb with the VRO? Something else?<br /><br />What should I do?

 

[ezeke]

Re: 60HP 1990 Electrical problem

Your beep is a no oil warning. You have to check out your VRO system before running any more. Try the SEARCH above and put in "VRO" and you will find lots of advice.<br /> <br />PS. If it were my motor I would have ditched the VRO and gone to pre-mixed 50:1 synthetic years ago.

 

[ezeke]

Re: 60HP 1990 Electrical problem

Back again Yann, <br /><br />I looked up one of the discussions about VRO that <br />I remembered because Joe Reeves had made some recommendations.<br /><br />You might want to follow the thread: VRO

 

[yann]

Re: 60HP 1990 Electrical problem

Hello Ezeke, <br /><br />I have an optimistic theory regarding the no-oil warning that stopped after a minute:<br /><br />1) The rectifier burnt and the battery didn't recharge without me noticing anything<br />2) A few hours later, burnt cable provoked a short-cut and stopped the motor. <br />3) At this point the battery was empty and I couldn't start the motor<br />4) Not knowing the cause I flooded the motor with gas and when I could restart the motor with a recharged battery I got the no-oil warning until some oil was injected in the motor.<br /><br />The second time I started the motor I pumped oil before gas and I got a blueish smoke for a minute out of the exhaust without any no-oil warning beep.<br /><br />I think the guy that sold me the motor had just recharged the battery and that the reason why I could start the motor a few times.<br /><br />I have put a new rectifier and I hope will not need to change the battery. <br /><br />Now back to the original problem:<br />Why the rectifier burnt? I have read the service bulletin and I am a little bit afraid of doing holes in the motor. Since, I have run the boat for two hours and the motor did turn hot (too hot I don't know). The water going out the motor was warm + but not terribly hot<br /><br />Assuming there is air in the colling system. Is there a way to check that and to purge it?<br /><br />Other questions: The motor is from 1990 and has been running 2500 nautic miles (is it a lot? I don't have a sens for t, it is my first motorboat ever)<br /><br />Is there any piece of the motor I should pay close attention to? I don't think any piece pior to the rectifier have been changed on the motor. The motor has only been runing in very low salted water (Stockholm archipelago)<br /><br />Thanks,<br />Yann

 

[ezeke]

Re: 60HP 1990 Electrical problem

OK, why don't you put some TCW3 oil in the gas, maybe 100:1 and put a new water pump impeller in and run it. <br /><br />The extra oil could foul the plugs after a while, but would be enough to protect the engine if there really is a problem with the VRO.<br /><br />If the rectifier did not burn out because of the overheat problem described in the service bulletin, or because of one of the other possible causes already mentioned, there is one other problem that could burn any rectifier, the battery.<br /><br />Unless a marine battery is used, you can run a recharge voltage that is too high for the rectifier when the battery is not fully charged. <br /><br />In other words, automotive batteries are really NOT acceptable for 2 stroke outboards with rectifiers, period. <br /><br />I have replaced impellers that looked perfect and corrected overheating problems: The impeller was just too weak from use, but looked fine.